Electronic Dog Fences

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Electronic dog fences provide dog owners with an automated, electronic means to make sure their dogs do not go beyond the safety of their homes. It also helps dog owners make sure that their dogs do not do any inadvertent damage to other people's property.

It effectively keeps the dogs within the owner's property and helps dogs learn to know their boundaries. They are trained by the system to automatically stay away from the boundaries of the home. Electronic dog fences have the added advantage of not taking up any property space. They are totally controlled by the dog's collar, and the predefined areas the dog is allowed to stay in.

The great thing about electronic fences is the fact that they can be programmed and wired to protect other areas of your home that are prone to the playful mischief of your energetic dogs. This way you can protect fish ponds, flowerbeds, gardens, and other sensitive areas.

But how do these things work? They are pretty simple, if you come to think of it. Here is a step by step guide to how electronic dog fences are set up and used.

Your Dog's Electronic Fence

1. Area Wiring – First of all, thin antenna wires are buried around the perimeter of the areas you want off limits to your dog. These wires are usually parallel to your picket or perimeter fences that surround your property. These wires are light, not bulky and are pretty easy to install.

They can even be secured in non soil areas by means of normal attachments easily found at any hardware store. Just make sure they are safe from the elements and are not an impediment to your surroundings. These wires can be installed beside your fish pond, other pet cages, and off-limit areas.

The wiring can also be installed inside your home. It should be installed in a way that it does not become cumbersome. It can be laid out like normal cable wire. Just make sure it is secured to the walls or to stable furniture and is beyond the reach of toddlers or your pets. You could even put it under you rug or under your carpet.

2. Pet Collar – Your pet then is made to wear a special collar that can receive signals from the wires you just installed. It is this collar that acts as the fence. Your pet should be wearing the collar for the system to work. Without the collar, the electronic fence will uselessly benign.

The collar works using radio frequency and has a specially installed radio receiver to pick up signals from the antenna wires in your territory.

3. Train Your Dog – the systems sets off a very mild and harmless shock to the dog whenever it crosses the boundaries marked by the wires. The shock is just like static and will cause no harm to your dog. All it does is offer a small irritating 'reminder' to keep your dogs from moving beyond their permitted areas.

Also before it emits the shock, it gives off high-frequency beeps to warn the dog. Whenever the dog hears the beeps it will be alerted to the fact that the shock would come if the warning is not heeded. This ensures that the pet will not have to be reminded physically as much as it will be by audio.

You should also mark the areas off limits by using visual aids such as flags, and other visual aids. As the dog gradually understands and respects the boundaries, it will no longer need these aids to avoid the areas altogether.

Warnings and Conclusions Some owners are not comfortable with the fact that mild static is used to remind their pets of their boundaries. However, it should be noted that it is non-harmful and is a great alternative to cooping up a pet within a dark and dingy cage beyond the dog's comfort. Also electronic fences do not protect your dog against robbers as cages do. Thieves have to work at a cage or a series of gates to get to your dog. Although it keeps your pets from going out too far from the home, it does not keep others away from coming into your home.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://fences.home-webzone.com/ where you can learn more about all aspects of fences for your home.

How To Set Up A Quarantine Tank For Tropical Fish

Writen by Mike Magnum

Do I Need A Quarantine Tank?

Ah, yes, the often dismissed but very necessary part of the tropical fish hobby, the infamous quarantine tank. Do you really need one to be successful in this hobby?

For freshwater fish you may be able to get by without having one. Freshwater fish are generally more suited to captivity because they are usually tank raised and don't seem to break out in disease as readily as their saltwater counterparts. However, if newly acquired fish do come down with something, you will surely wish that you had one ready to go. One newly bought fish that is introduced to your main tank can easily wipe out the entire tank population. Better safe than sorry, right?

For saltwater aquarium keepers, I would say that you definitely need a quarantine tank. Marine specimens are mostly wild caught and not used to being kept in captivity. Their journey to a dealers tank is usually much longer and much more stressful for them. Stressed out fish will usually come down with some kind of disease if they don't simply die from the whole ordeal. Saltwater fish keepers will usually have other things in the main display tank such as invertebrates and live rock, that they don't want to expose to the harsh medicines necessary to treat one or two fish. Some medicines can wipe out all of the invertebrates in a tank, so be sure to research any medicine before using it in your tank.

Quarantine Tank Setup
You don't need to go all out here. A simple 10 - 20 gallon aquarium will suffice for most people. If you have larger fish then obviously you want to get a bigger quarantine tank. All you really need is a bare bones setup with the following equipment:

• Some type of filtration (a hang on the back of the tank power filter will work, just use filter floss without the carbon since carbon will remove medication from the water, being counter productive)
• Heater
• A powerhead and/or an airstone for increased surface agitation
• Test Kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
• Fish Net - don't use the same net for your main tank

Fill the quarantine tank with water from the main tank and then turn everything on in the quarantine tank.

Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Quarantine
For newly acquired fish you will want to acclimate them to the water in the quarantine tank and monitor them very closely for a period of two to three weeks. Monitor the water parameters with your test kits and check for signs of parasites or bacterial infections.

If the newly acquired fish does come down with something you will need to use the appropriate medication and you will need to keep them in quarantine for a further two weeks to make sure that you have indeed treated them effectively. If after a few weeks no problems develop, you can then acclimate them to the main tank water and then introduce them.

If a fish comes down with something while in your main tank, just net them and plop them into the quarantine tank. There should be no need to acclimate them because you used water from your main tank. If you didn't use water from the main tank you will need to acclimate them to the quarantine tank water. Diagnose the problem/disease and treat appropriately. After the disease clears up you will still want to keep the fish in quarantine for a week or so monitoring the water parameters with your test kits the whole time.

More On Saltwater Quarantine
Always have some extra saltwater ready in case you need to perform an emergency water change. Remember, you want to monitor those water parameters frequently (daily or at least once every two days). Many saltwater hobbyists always have saltwater ready just in case. You never want to mix up saltwater and add it right away. Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish, in turn causing you more problems.

Conclusion
Freshwater hobbyists may get away with not using a quarantine tank, but saltwater hobbyists would be crazy not using one. Save yourself some money, headaches and especially the fish by having a quarantine tank. The fish in your main tank will thank you for it.

For more tropical fish and aquarium information, please visit FishLore.com - Freshwater & Saltwater Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information.

Mike is an editor at FishLore.com. Designed for beginners, FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more!

How To Potty Train Your Dog

Writen by Mike Strawbridge

Dogs have two natural instincts that you can use to your advantage when potty training them. One is that they prefer not to pee or poop where they sleep. They will move to another area if given the chance. Two is that they will pee or poop where there is already the residual smell of a previous pee or poop.

When potty training a dog there are basically two options to use - Indoors or outdoors.

Indoor training:

To train your dog to go indoors, you will need to set up an area in your home where you want him to learn to do his business and give him free access to that area. Make sure it is not the area where he sleeps.

Put some newspaper down on the floor of the area where you want him to go. Carefully observe your dog and the moment you see him starting to urinate or defecate, immediately take him to the papered area. You may leave a trail in the way but get him to the right area.

Praise your dog once he is in the correct area. As you are cleaning up, leave a small trace of the pee or poop on the paper in the area you want him to use. Remember your dog has much keener sense of smell than you do. Just a trace is all he needs to find his way back to the spot.

Now you must carefully and completely clean up any material that may have been deposited elsewhere. You must leave no smell trace that your dog can find on any other part of the house or your dog may return there and think he is doing just what he is supposed to do. Remember again that your dog's nose is much more powerful than yours is. Many pet supply stores have cleaning sprays that help to mask the odor for dogs.

The idea is to use your dog's natural instinct to return to his previous safe spot for each subsequent deposit. Also, to make sure that one and only one spot is made so inviting.

After a couple of weeks, your dog should get the hang of where you want him to go and you will no longer have to save a portion of each deposit to carry the smell over.

Outdoor training:

To train your dog to go outdoors, you will have to develop a communication method so that you and your dog know when it is time to go outside. The frequency is highly variable among breeds and dog size and is also affected by diet.

Just like indoor training you will need to establish a safe spot outside where you want your dog to go. Take him there often so he gets used to the place. Make it as far from his sleep or play area as possible.

If you catch him in the act of going in the house, immediately scoop him up and take him to the outdoor spot. It does not matter if you leave a trail, just get him to the spot. Praise him once he uses the spot.

Leave a small amount of the fecal matter in his safe spot as a scent trace for him to find later. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any indoor traces so that there is not scent trace left.

If your dog is trained to go outdoors, you must be consistent. Make sure that you are available often enough so that he can hold it between trips outside.

You can also hang a bell on a string at the door and ring it each time you take the dog out to potty. Teach the dog to nudge the bell when he needs to go out. This makes a simple and effective communication tool that won't be confused with other behavior. Don't teach him to scratch on the door unless you wanted to buy a new door anyway.

Whichever method you choose be consistent. Don't try to mix indoor and outdoor training, as you will only confuse your dog.

Work with your dogs natural instincts to make this training go much smoother.

To learn more dog training tips and tricks see Mike's blog my-dog-smash.blogspot.com Mike Strawbridge is a contributor to the Potty Training Site where he shares information on potty training human toddlers. www.pottytrainingsite.com

Bast The Beloved Protector Of Cats

Writen by Susanna Duffy

She is the protector of cats, women and children. The ancient Egyptians celebrated her feastday on October 31 with convivial merry making, music, dancing in the streets and drinking with friends - the sort of holiday we would recognise instantly.

A great week-long festival was held in the holy city of Bubastis attracting devotees from all over the country to celebrate along the riverbanks and through the city streets. Herodotus tells of crowds swelling to 700,000. Sadly, Bast and her feast day are overlooked in modern times but you could perhaps say that Hallowe'en was originally celebrated as the Feast of Bast

She holds the mysteries of the cat in her power - those magnetic animals with a strong power to fascinate or repel. Let's face it, all of us will admit that we either love cats or we can't stand the sight of them. Historically, the cat was first endowed with archetypal power in Egypt where it came to be regarded as a Sacred animal. For the cat is identified with Bast and she is most recognised for her portrayal as a woman with the head of a cat. When a cat curls up with its head touching its tail, it forms a circle, the symbol of eternity, the symbol of the goddess in whatever form she has chosen

Bast is the Goddess of the rising sun, the moon, truth, enlightenment, sensuality, fertility, bounty, birth, plenty, the home, music and dance. She was the beloved goddess and the protectress of women, small children, and domestic cats.

Bast was the possessor of the Eye of Horus, the sacred utchat. Over time the utchat became more associated with cats and was often cat shaped. Egyptian women used these cat amulets as fertility tokens, praying to have as many children as cats have kittens

Our modern names for the cat are derived from the word utchat: cat, chat, cattus, gatus, gatous, gato, katt, katte, kitte, kitty, etc. One variation of her name was Pasht, and from this we get the remaining Indo-European words for the cat: pasht, past, pushd, pusst, and puss

The Wildcats of Egypt first lived in the swamps and marshes along the Nile. As time progressed, and the people began to grow grains and other foodstuff and keeping it for longer periods of time, rodents and other vermin began to thrive. The wild cat was venerated for its ferocity and rapacity, qualities it used to keep the rocent population under control, qualities which it also shared with the lion. What a boon was the Wildcat to the Egyptians!

The domestic cats we know today are all descended from the felix sylvesteris, the Wildcat of Africa and friend of the Egyptian farmer. And so began the long domestication process. As the cat was identified with Bast, so then Bast gained enormous popularity from 1000 BCE onward. Feline hunting instincts were honoured, but so was the cat's gentler side as a warm and loving mother to her kittens.

The ancient Egyptians must have truly appreciated the beauty of wild creatures, they took the frightening aspects of animals and turned ferocity into beneficial protection. Their gods possessed animal traits like the precision of the hawk and the strength of the bull. So then, we see in Bast the grace and elegance of a cat, the agility, strength, speed, and the deadly claws. She holds the charm, patience and affectionate nature of a domestic cat, as well as the potential for the raw brute strength of a lioness.

She also has the gift, like all cats, of looking deep into your soul.

And it's easy to see why Bast has been associated with pleasure, music and dancing for millennia. Just think of your own comfort-seeking cat who loves to be stroked and petted. Cats also love to play, with their graceful movements and purring as musical accompaniment, luxuriating in coordination of movement.

Today, ruins mark the joyful city of Bubastis, the once-proud temple is nothing but tumbled blocks. However the name of Bast endures. For at least 5000 years there have been many who praised her name. Many still do so today.

Take a moment to honour this ancient Egyptian goddess. Light a green candle, her sacred colour, and be affectionate to a cat, her cherished animal. When you address a cat, remember you are speaking to a little divinity, and a creature beloved of Bast.

Susanna Duffy is a Civil Celebrant, grief counsellor and mythologist. She creates ceremonies and Rites of Passage for individual and civic functions, and specialises in celebrations inspired by the divine feminine in A goddess a day

Dog Training Sit Simple But Effective

Writen by Sean D

Teaching the sit is one of the more simple procedures, but can be vitally important. The method you will use is the lure-reward method. Basically, you will lure the dog into the desired position and reward him when he adopts the position. For this method to work the best, you should not say the word "sit" until your dog consistently responds to your lure, which will initially be the cue for him to sit.

Step 1.) Take your dog to a quiet place

Step 2.) Place a small treat in your hand, between your thumb and your index and middle fingers.

Step 3.) Say your dog's name (if you have been practicing the Name Game, then your dog will respond by looking at you).

Step 4.) Show your dog that you have the treat in your hand by placing it near his nose, but do not let him grab it.

Step 5.) WITHOUT SAYING ANYTHING, move the treat over your dog's head, toward his rump, as if you are going to place it right between his ears. If you do this correctly, your dog should respond by adopting a sitting position. If he does, immediately, say, "Good!" and give your dog the treat.

There is a rule that you will introduce at this point: once you give your dog a command, he should not do anything else at all until you tell him to. After sitting, there are two things that can happen next: 1. You can give another command such as "down" or "stay", or 2. you can release him. Since at this point, he does not know any other commands to perform, the best thing to do is release him. So, if he sits and you reward him, then:

Step 6.) Say, "Okay!" happily and allow your dog to get up! Note: If you see that your dog is about to get and you have not said, "Okay", then simply say, "okay" before he actually gets up, as if it were your idea in the first place.

Troubleshooting: If your dog did not sit:

If when you completed step 5 above, your dog jumped up to grab at the treat, then you were most likely holding the treat too high. Try again and this time keep the treat very close to your dog's head.

If when you completed step 5 above, your dog backed up instead of sitting, then try the exercise again with your dogs rear-end in a corner (so that he can't back up).

Practice this with your dog for several days, until he responds very well, almost without fail to your cue of moving the treat over his head, then move on to Phase Two!

Phase Two of The Sit

Now that your dog has mastered the technique and has learned to respond to your non-verbal cue, it is time to introduce the verbal command, "sit".

Step 1.) Take your dog to a quiet place

Step 2.) Place the treat in your hand, as before

Step 3.) Say your dog's name, followed by the word, "sit!" (e.g. "Fido, sit!") You should say, "sit" as though you were commanding your dog to do so. Try to avoid using a tone of voice that suggests that you are "asking" your dog to sit.

Step 4.) Immediately give the non-verbal cue for your dog to sit, by moving the treat over his head, as in the last lesson.

Practice in this manner until your dog starts to respond (sit) as soon as you give the verbal command. Then, slowly fade out the use of the non-verbal command (moving the treat over his head). Remember to always release your dog from the sit position by saying, "Okay!" in an excited tone of voice.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Wooden Bird Cages

Writen by Ken Marlborough

Gone are the days of boring bird cages. Today's bird cages are trendy. They are stylish. They make a statement about the owner's taste and lifestyle. Bird cages can blend in artfully with the décor or they can stand in bold contrast. Bird cages are available in many different themes and styles. Modern, whimsical, simplistic, Victorian, Oriental, Tuscan, Arabian —bird cages are available in these styles and more.

Some of the most beautiful cages in any style are wooden bird cages. They can be made of most any wood—cherry, oak, pine, maple, and even laminate. For most any wood décor, there is a wooden bird cage to match. And, if you can't find an existing bird cage, one can be made to match.

For all their beauty, though, there are some things to consider before buying a wooden bird cage. For example, wooden bird cages are difficult to clean. They can be very challenging to disinfectant and sanitize, as germs and bacteria can get into the grains.

If you own a parrot, it is definitely best to avoid wooden bird cages. Parrots enjoy chewing the wood.

Wooden bird cages are available online in a variety of sizes. They can also be custom ordered to your exact specifications. Though used wooden bird cages are available, they should be avoided. These cages could pose a significant health risk to your bird and your family.

Bird Cages Info provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as covers and stands. Bird Cages Info is the sister site of Dog Beds Web.

Do You Want To Show Your Shih Tzu

Writen by Connie Limon

Did you know that... there are "mock" dog shows, called match shows, where you and your Shih Tzu puppy go through many of the procedures of a regular dog show, but do not gain points toward championship?

You realize your Shih Tzu is developing beyond your wildest expectations and you definitely feel your Shih Tzu is show dog potential. This article will show you how to get your Shih Tzu started in the showring.

For those seriously interested in showing their Shih Tzu to full championship, match shows provide important experience for both the Shih Tzu and the owner.

Match shows are usually held by kennel clubs, annually or seminannually. Much ring poise and experience can be gained there. The age limit is usually two months at match shows to give Shih Tzu puppies four months of training before they compete at the regular shows when they reach six months of age.

Shih Tzu puppies compete with others of their own age for comparative purposes.

Many Shih Tzu breeders evaluate their Shih Tzu litters in this manner, choosing which is the most outgoing, which is the most poised, the best showman and so on. Class categories may vary slightly, according to a number of entries, but basically they include all the classes that are included at regular point show.

The fee for your Shih Tzu puppy to participate in match shows is usually nominal.

Ribbons and trophies are given for your efforts. Entries can be made on the same day of the show right on the show grounds. Match shows are unbenched.

Match shows are held in an informal and congenial atmosphere. They are a great way to help make the ordeal of one's first adventures in the show ring a little less nerve-wracking.

By the time your Shih Tzu puppy is six months old, your local kennel club can provide you with the names and addresses of the show-giving superintendents in yur area and give you information regarding where you must write for an entry form for the Point Shows.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com