Alaskan Malamute The Nordic Sled Dog

Writen by Evan Richer

The Alaskan Malamute is a medium-large to large dog that weighs between 70-95 pounds and measures up to 25". They are best known as sled dogs and are used to hard work. They ideal for cold climates or homes that will keep them cool and hydrated in hot summers. The Alaskan Malamute has a thick, coarse outer coat and wooly, dense undercoat. They are dressed for cold weather. If you own an Alaskan Malamute and live in a warmer climate, you need to make sure that they have a place to get out of the sun and plenty of water.

They come in a variety of colors including solid white, shadings of light to medium gray, black, sable, and red. In animals with shadings, parts of legs, feet, the underbody, and part of face markings are predominantly white. The AKC does not recognize any other solid colors than white.

Alaskan Malamutes are independent, friendly and loyal. They are more active as puppies and tend to mellow when they get older. They are chewers, diggers and explorers. If you don't want it played with, than put it away. When your Alaskan Malamute is outside, make sure that they can't dig out of the yard or jump over they fence. They are not good apartment, small home or city dogs. They love to be outside and need plenty of room to play. Because they are extremely playful as puppies, they would be better for older children until they become calmer. They work best with other animals and pets when they are socialized at a young age. They can be aggressive towards other dogs and can consider small animals prey. This is an ideal dog for a family home that allows plenty of outdoor time to play and explore

The breed dates back over 2000 years and is a native of Alaska. They were originally used as sled dogs by the Alaskan Malamute Eskimo tribe. In addition to a companion dog, the Alaskan Malamutes are still used as sled dogs for racing, exploration and families living in arctic regions.

As hardworking sled dogs, they are important household pets for families living in cold, snow covered areas and imperative to their way of life. If you are looking for an independent but loving companion, the Alaskan Malamute is a perfect dog for you.

Learn more about dogs and dog care at Dear Doggy. You can also visit our Alaskan Malamute page in the dog breeds section of our website for more information.

Kitty Tricks

Writen by Kim-Marie Ward

Cats don't do tricks, right? At least, that's the reputation they've garnered, but it isn't true. Cats can and are trained. Most animals in movies and commercials have been trained, and that includes the feline stars in your favorite cat food commercials. They can come when called, sit, stay and do all the same things dogs are trained to do, but the way you go about it is a little different.

Dogs are best trained with treats and lots of praise. Cats are trained with treats, some praise (though not the same gushing praise you'd give a dog) and the best way of all is to make the "trick" a natural part of the cat's typical day. The last is the most effective. I've also found that older kittens are easier to train than young kittens, and even old cats can learn new tricks rather quickly.

For simple parlor tricks, like sit, stay, and sit-up, the treat method works best. For these actions, give the command, then with happy praise when they succeed, give them a treat and a little rub behind the ears. Obviously, these will be the easiest tricks to teach. Don't make your moving cat sit, but wait until she is sitting already. Have the treat ready, give the command, "sit," then immediately show the cat the treat, give it to her while she's still in position, and praise her for sitting. If you do this consistently for a few days, then you will be able to give the command and the cat will obey you even if she had been on her way elsewhere.

Once you've established "sit," move on to "stay" and do essentially the same thing you did – approach the cat and give her the treat. You should be able to go further and further away each time you give the command. If the cat gets up to follow you, give the sit command, then say "stay" and again, approach the cat to give her the treat.

For teaching your cat to sit-up, use the treat as the incentive by holding it above your cat's heads, high enough that she can almost reach it, but not so high she'd have to jump for it.

You can teach your cat to indicate yes or no with nodding or moving their head side to side by moving the treat in the direction that matches the command. Up and down for yes, side to side for no. This one takes a little longer to move to other situations outside of treats but once your cat makes the connection, and if you reinforce it with using the motions yourself as much as possible, they will use the head movements to communicate with you.

For example, once the yes and no are associated you can ask your cat if she'd like to play with a particular toy. Ask, "yes?" as you move your head up and down. Then put the toy away and say "no," while shaking your head. After a few weeks, you can ask your cat if he'd like to play and if he nods, then you can get a toy out. If he shakes his head, don't get the toy out.

Other "tricks" you can teach your cat are most easily done by making them part of a daily routine. If you always say to your cat immediately before feeding time, "I bet you're hungry" then soon, you'll be able to simply say that phrase and your darling will be meowing on her way out to the kitchen.

I once taught my cat to give kisses and hugs. Every morning when I left for work, I'd say "I'm leaving now. Come give me a kiss." I'd pick her up and kiss her, and then set her back down on the ground and wave goodbye. Every evening when I came home, I'd call out "I'm home! Can I have a hug?" I'd go pick up my cat, give her a gentle squeeze, kiss the top of her head and set her down.

In only two weeks, she was trained. I didn't even need to say the whole phrase. I could say, "I'm leaving now," and she'd run out from wherever she was resting or playing, jump into my arms and set her nose to my lips, then let me set her down. When I got home, I'd call out, "I'm home," and again, she'd come running, jump into my arms and let me give her a little squeeze. It got to the point where I could be sitting on the sofa, relaxing after work and I could look over at her and say, "give me a kiss." She'd run over, set her nose to my lips, then either go off and do whatever it was she wanted to do, or she'd lay on my lap and let me pet her.

As long as you don't force your cat, but make her training feel natural to her, she can and will learn to do a lot of so-called "tricks," though to her, they'll just be a normal part of daily life.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums. Kim-Marie is a book editor and writer; stop by and visit her portfolio at Kim-Marie on Writing.Com.

How Do I Stop My Dog From Barking 4 Top Tips

Writen by Hugh Campbell

My West Highland White Terrier used to be a nightmare in the mornings. As soon as he would hear the newspaper come through the letterbox, he would rush downstairs, growling and barking like crazy. And this would be a good hour before I wished to get up. If you find yourself in a similar situation and scream "How do I stop my dog from barking?!", then let me be of assistance.

Let us first establish why dogs bark the way they do. Barking is their verbal communication, and in the same way that our tones of voice can reflect our moods, barking can be responsible for several social purposes. For example, it can be a way to warn people, a way to greet people, and just plain old excitement. You cannot quell this natural instinct, but you can control it to a large extent.

1. A training collar

You can purchase a training collar for your dog. Each of these collars give off a small vibration, activated by remote control, to stir the dog's attention. This is a neat way of training your dog through Pavlovian methods, and you don't have to move a muscle. These collars typically retail for around $100, but can be relatively cheap for what the results they produce.

2. Use verbal commands

Dogs can usually be trained the traditional way, with a stern verbal command relaying whether an action is correct or incorrect. By tapping certain parts of their body in conjunction with the correct tone and language, repetition can result in modified behaviour. This is certainly a cheaper and more natural option.

3. Bribe the mutt!

You can stop the noise immediately by giving the dog a treat or a toy to play with. Obviously if the canine's mouth is full, they will be incapable of barking at the same time. Although this is a bit of a quick fix method, it can be particularly useful at a delicate time of the day, such as night-time. You can of course play with your dog afterwards.

Although there are increasingly technological methods to training your dog, the more natural methods remain time-tested and arguably more ethical. Learning to train your dog helps you develop a valuable skill, as well as the respect -- rather than the fear -- of your pet. Persistence and repetition in the short term will reap great rewards in the long-term.

Hugh Campbell runs the Hottest Picks Online website which provides recommended resources on how to successfully train your dog (http://www.hottestpicksonline.com/TrainYourDog.html) Pooch training

My Fathers Daughter

Writen by Vaughn Pascal

My dad was an avid animal lover. We grew up with all kinds of animals but especially dogs. That is one of the main things I got from my dad. He taught me a lot about the care and consideration it takes in owning an animal and the responsibility involved in doing it right. He never looked at them as simply pets but an extension of family that needed to be treated as such. So needless to say I had tons of animals.

I always felt this remarkable bond with them and see my own son following the steps that his mom and his grandpa took in regards to that. I could see my son being a Veterinarian which is what I wanted to be at his age, maybe a K9 handler which we have discussed. He seems to follow what road I take and is so much like me it is scary. He could and would be a great defender of animal rights simply because he chooses to be that now. He will stand up to a grown man and stand his ground if he thinks that person is abusing an animal. He is, to a point, fanatical about it and he is only 7 yrs old.

I think back to my own childhood and how I reacted to such things in my day, and I was exactly the same, and I came from a long line of relatives who believed that an animal had its place and it wasn't a family member in the least and I could go on about the abusive situations I have seen in my lifetime. That animals be put in and my reactions and responses to such, but it would take 10 pages or more to do so. When Dakota comes to me and states an act he took as repulsive to animals, he becomes agitated and I allow him to vent. I also allow him to stand his ground and a know most people accept what he says with shame in their eyes and carry on. He has the tenacity of a pitbull when it comer to the animal rights issues and I will never deter him in any way.

It has been awhile since I have personally allowed myself to become close to anyone, individual, animal since the loss of Natasha my Mini Schnauzer, See, 'Man's Best Friend', good article. Anyways making the decision to have her put to sleep was terribly troubling to my soul and to this day I still struggle with that decision, it also takes me back to years ago as a child and having to decide, by the hands of an abusive uncle, which out of a litter of puppies and kittens should live and die, the agony of having to do this as an adult brought back to many terrifying and hurtful memories that it has caused me to become somewhat numb in regards to having something depend on and trust me totally for their lives, comfort, and health. I am just not up to that responsibility as of yet, and I am smart enough to realize that in me. I have tried but when I become to attached I send the adopted animal to a friend's and I have done that at least twice now, and feel the need to heal before I do it again.

My son still has his animals and I am so thankful for that. Yes, I do have a cat which seems to have permanently established a role in this family, why and how I am not 100 % sure on that, but I do know I don't see me without her and I guess maybe that is a start. I was always very close in heart to dogs though. I preferred them and always saw myself with one, but not at this time. I love horses too and nothing seems to free me more than riding atop a horse with no control over where it goes. I love that feeling, there is nothing like it and it sets me free. My dad always brought us home different pets, rabbits, chicks, we even had two horses and he loved them dearly, and he taught me so much about their care and what they give you in return. I can look into the eyes of animals and tell you almost what it is they are thinking and feeling and I know Dakota does the same. My little Kokopelli.

It is remarkable to see the light in the eyes, if different, animals both tame and wild and it teaches you to know the trust that they can give. Do animals have souls, I believe so. I do believe that. I think to kill an animal for food may be a necessity for some, but I could never, ever do it but I grew up around it, people that torture and kill animals for pleasure are sick and sadistic and as close to evil as you can get without hurting a human and that is where I stand on that.

Just ask people who have nothing but animals as friends, a teenager who feels so isolated and alone that the only one thing that knows their secrets and hurts is that of their dog or cat, maybe even a horse or bird. Or an elderly person whom has lost a spouse and has only the affections of a pet to keep them company. Or a couple whom has lost a baby and has that new puppy to kind of take away a moment of emptiness. They give so much unselfishly and with nothing in return.

It amazes me the loyalty and devotion so many animals give to those that love them and even those who don't. If I were an animal I would be a wolf. I would be a wolf because of the family life it leads with friends and family surrounding it daily, hunting for food together, to live a long life with one single mate. To have that social network and that support.

I will have to ask Dakota what he would be. I am almost positive he would say a bear, but I really am not sure as to the reasons , it may have some thing to do with strength and honor. Yes, he knows those words. Being a tough guy is his thing! Having honor in what you do, is his thing. He knows those words and he uses them. He also knows what responsibility means and how to have compassion for all things of this world.

We live in a close community with all types of animals, the earth sustains us all, and we were meant to live freely amongst each other and we need to care for all things on the earth as we were meant to be guardians over all. Just remember that, and take care of nature and all that inhabits the world, how lonely we would be without it, thanks!

Vaughn Pascal

To Dakota: I love you! To God and Jesus: Thank you for everything we have..

Goldfish Feeding Tips

Writen by Dane Stanton

What's the best food for your Goldfish?

Goldfish need food that is a combination of carbohydrates and vitamins to help them grow and fight disease. They particularly need vitamin A to make their colors look bright. They do need protein but just about 12% so that they can build muscle. In the natural habitat, Goldfish mainly feed on plants. They eat a fiber diet that includes algae, grasses and aquatic plants in the natural environment. Thankfully you do not have to sweat much to provide them with the equivalent nutritional needs because you can get it off the shelf! These processed food available at pet stores include:

Flake food

This is one of the commonly available goldfish foods, especially made for them and it consists of brine shrimp. It is easily eaten by Goldfish and helps in avoiding a particularly fatal sickness called the Air Bladder Disease.

Pellet food

This is also flake food with brine shrimp but it's packaged as a pellet. The only problem with pellets is that it sometimes swells in the goldfish's stomach and makes it lose its balance. This is what is the Air Bladder disease.

Frozen food

This includes live food that is frozen. You have an array to choose from as in frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms or mosquito larvae. This will come frozen in slabs from which you have to break off bit-by-bit and hand-feed your goldfish. You can also opt for Freeze-dried foods, which includes Krill, Pacific plankton, brine shrimp and bloodworms.

Homemade food

If you really want to make the food for your goldfish and you have the time you can do so. You will find that their favorites are lettuce and peas. Take any type of lettuce, which would be easy for the goldfish to chew on and digest. Wash and rinse the lettuce in warm water and just clip it inside the tank with a lettuce clip. Do not cook the lettuce. As for the peas, cook them till they are soft and refrigerate them. At feeding time, peel off the skin and mash a pea between your fingers and drop it in the tank. Do make sure the peas are soft or you could end up bloating your goldfish. Goldfish enjoy plant food and that's why you can see them happily nibbling away at Anacharis and Romaine lettuce or pieces of cucumber and zucchini which you should make sure to clip on to the tank with a suction cup clip

Live foods

The live foods that goldfish can safely eat include Daphnia, Brine Shrimp, Tubiflex worms, Meal worms, Wax worms and Blood worms.

Special treat for your goldfish You can make a special "gel food" for your goldfish that's quite easy to do. This can be given to the goldfish along with the main staple as a once-in-a-while treat. Here's what you need will need: a packet of unflavored gelatin; an empty ice cube tray and a 2.5 oz jar of baby food in a vegetable flavor such as carrots, peas or green beans.

* Take ¼ cup cold water in a small saucepan and pour the contents of the packet of gelatin in the water and stir over low heat until the gelatin dissolves.

* Add ¾ cup water, stirring till it's well blended.

* Add the baby food and stir thoroughly.

* Now pour the mixture into an ice cube tray and let it cool for about half an hour.

* Refrigerate the mixture for a few hours till it solidifies.

When it's feeding time just pop out a cube, cut it into small strips and feed it to your goldfish! One tray is more than enough for two 4- to 5-inch goldfish for a week. Make sure you dump the leftovers after a week, as it's good to give them fresh stuff.

Whatever it is, you will find that your goldfish are not fussy eaters. They have a wide array of food to choose from and they can eat quite a lot, which you would need to regulate. You will need to remember that they are temperate fish that do not need a diet high in protein. Goldfish are classified as coldwater fish and, as a rule; do not need to eat a diet that is high in protein. What they need is a carbohydrate-rich diet with the adequate vitamins.

That is why the best option for Goldfish are the floating pellets or the flakes which are specially made for Goldfish and have all the necessary nutrients. Ask your goldfish dealer as well as other owners and decide on what is best for the goldfish.

Dane Stanton - www.goldfish-secrets.com

Dane Stanton is an expert on goldfish health care. To visit his website visit http://www.goldfish-secrets.com for more information on Goldfish care and other aquarium related topics. *Recommended*

Amazing Insights Of A Horse Training Expert From The Late 1800s

Writen by Andy Curry

Could a horse trainer, born about 154 years ago, teach us anything new today? Would the methods be old hat or would they be useful?

The answer is a resounding Yes!, they are enormously useful.

The horse training expert referred to is named Jesse Beery. Beery was a world famous horse trainer from the late 1800's who possessed amazing ability with horses.

Fortunately, Beery's secrets remain after all these years. His information can be found in his book he wrote in the late 1800's. However, very few copies of his book exist. It is virtually impossible to find an original - much less one that is readable.

Here is a partial reading from the first chapter of Beery's book:

Fear is the principal motive which causes the colt to resist training. It is natural for him to kick against an unknown object at his heels, to pull his head out of the halter as from a trap, and if of a bad disposition, to strike and bite if he does not thoroughly understand you.

His fear is governed by his sense of touch, sight and hearing; and it is through these senses we obtain a mastery, and at the same time remove his fears of the halter, the robe, the harness and the wagon. These are the fixed laws which govern the actions of all horses, and the training of a colt is merely teaching him not to fear the working apparatus, but to respect his master, and to obey his commands as soon as he has learned their meaning.

Each one of these senses must be educated before the colt is trained. A colt's education may be compared with that of a child to a great extent. A horse's reasoning powers are limited to his past experience. So we must reason with him by acts alone. Hence the importance of beginning every step with the colt right; for by our acts he learns.

The successful school-master aims first to teach the child to have confidence in him. Hence the first lesson we give the colt is simply to teach it to have confidence in us and that we are its best friend and don't intend to hurt it.

The book continues with the first lesson a colt is to have which is

"How to gain a colt's confidence."

Fortunately, horse trainer Andy Curry discovered a legible copy and made it available for horse owners who want to learn this incredible information.

Andy Curry encourages responsible horse owners to check into Jesse Beery's book and learn what it has to teach.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Dog Training 8 Correction Mistakes Dog Owners Make

Writen by Marilyn Burnham

Just like no dog is perfect, neither are pet owners. A lot of dog behavior problems go right back to poor dog owner training. Here are some of the most common mistakes dog owners make that lead to bad dog behavior:

1. Inconsistent training. Just like with your typical human two-year-old, you've must be consistent when training your dog. Letting Max get away with bad behavior even some of the time will lead to problems down the road.

2. Reinforcing bad behavior. A classic poorly trained dog owner behavior. Even the best of us don't realize when we've done it. Here's the classic example: Buttons scratches the door to be let in. You just painted the door and don't want Buttons ruining the new paint, so you let him in immediately. Guess what Buttons just learned? If he scratches the door, you'll let him in immediately! Don't let your dog outsmart you! You may just have to put up with a few scratch marks on the door until Buttons gets the message. Never let your dog in the house when he scratches on the door or barks.

3. Using the dog's name when correcting him. It's important not to make "no" sound like a part of your puppy's name: Buster No! Just say the word, in a low, growling voice. Don't use "no" when your dog isn't doing the unwanted behavior but is considering it. Try "don't," again, using a low, growling, and firm voice.

4. Leaving the dog alone too much. The pounds are full of young dogs that somebody wanted when they were puppies, but because the owners worked 12-hour days every day, the dog now has behavior problems. Spend time with your dog every day.

5. Crating a dog too long. Not only is this bad for your dog's behavior, keeping him in a crate for hours and hours day after day can affect his growth and his muscle tone.

6. Chaining a dog. If you don't have a secure fence, then keep your dog in the house crated. Chaining a dog is dangerous and cruel.

7. Yelling. Your dog will not respond to yelling. Everyone loses their temper from time to time, but constantly yelling at your dog loses its effect quickly - just like it does on your spouse or your children.

8. Hitting. Swatting your dog with newspaper or hitting him just teaches him that aggression gets the leader of the pack what he wants. Don't hit your dog. It sets a bad example.

Some dogs, especially some toy breeds or hounds, may still have trouble. This is especially true of small dogs. Remember, you are training your pet to not leave waste in his den, and to a small dog your home may be too big to seem den-like.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp' The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!