Starting A Business In The Dog Clothing Industry Is Now A Good Time

Writen by Grant Carroll

Yes. Let me just get that answer out of the way. In a matter of just a few years, dog clothing has grown from obscurity into a booming industry. Millions of dog owners around the country and around the world are willing to pull out their wallets to clothe their furry babies. Even though it takes hard work, the dog clothes industry is booming, and there's plenty of room for businesses small and large to turn a profit.

First, let's discuss one of the less glamorous aspects of getting a dog clothing business started – hard work. First of all, you have to set up shop. These days, you can either have a traditional "brick and mortar" store or you could set up an internet business. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but internet businesses are cheaper to run due to the low overhead. This first step can be complex and difficult, so it's a good idea to get help and research as much as you can before going for it. An educated business owner is a successful business owner. Once you have set up your store you need to do some product sourcing. Look around for good, quality suppliers that can offer you the most for your money. For a dog clothes store, your suppliers must be able to provide fashionable clothing at a decent price and in a timely manner. If you don't have enough money to buy a lot of inventory yourself, you might want to find a dropshipper. They will ship the product directly to your customer with your company's info on it. It's best if you can find a wholesale supplier that also drop ships. Getting everything started can be a daunting task the feels overwhelming, but if you stick to it, then you will be rewarded in the end.

The payoff for all your hard work is worth it. Last year, pet supplies in the U.S. made about $34 billion. That's a big enough pie for everyone to have a slice. There's no sign of this popularity fading anytime soon, either. Now it's hard to flip through TV channels without seeing something about a celebrity buying expensive things for their pets. Thanks to people like Paris Hilton, dog clothes are going to be around for a while.

Visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters.

How To Litter Train A Cat

Writen by Andrew Markison

For most cat owners, training their cat to use the litter is a relatively painless process. It is among a cat's natural instincts to eliminate in an area that they can cover their feces in. This behavior may be a way of your cat accepting what they perceive to be as the natural order of dominance. In the wild feral cats will bury their feces if they are not at the top of their social hierarchy, if a feral cat does not bury his or her feces it is likely that the cat exhibiting that behavior is the dominant feline. So when your housecat buries his or her waste he or she may be recognizing your role as the dominant animal in their social community. It is also possible, however, that your cat may be displaying his or her inherited instinct to bury his or her feces in order to hide their trail from would be predators.

Generally kittens will learn the behavior of burying their feces and using the litter through their mother once they are weaned assuming the mother is litter trained. So if you bring home a young kitten of about 12 weeks, you may only need to place kitty in the litter box and gently scratch the clean litter with your fingers shortly after she eats to indicate to her what she is to do.

KITTY DIDN'T TAKE TO THE LITTER RIGHT AWAY
If your new cat doesn't take to litter training after your first few attempts you may want to consider teaching her using another common method. Confine your new addition to a small but comfortable room, preferably one with a hard floor if you have one. Place both the litter box and the food dish in the room but don't place them close to one another. Your cat will naturally not want to defecate near its food source so she will look for another area. Eliminate any pillows, blankets, newspapers, towels or other soft items where your cat may decide to eliminate from the room before you close her in. If you have confined your cat to a room with hard floors she is likely to avoid eliminating on the floor since urinating is likely to splash back and get on her fur. The only remaining choice to the cat at this point is (hopefully) the litter box.

MY CAT STOPPED USING THE LITTER
If your cat was housebroken and all the sudden she seems to have forgotten that instinct there are a few possibilities you might want to consider before giving up.

1. Does Kitty Have A Dirty Litter Box? The most common cause of a housetrained cat to stop using the litter is your cat disagreeing with the level of cleanliness regarding her litter box. Your cat is more likely to stop using the litter if she feels that it is too dirty. It is best to clean your cat's litter every day or at the very least every second or third day. The dirtier a litter box gets the less likely it is that your cat is going to continue to use it. Your cat wants to eliminate in a clean environment and if she notices that every time she eliminates on the carpet you immediately run and clean it up she perceives that as a more desirable place to eliminate because it is so quickly cleaned. Keeping your cat's litter as clean as possible is the best way to avoid this problem, and remember, what you consider clean, your cat may not.

In addition to emptying the litter, you obviously need to change it from time to time as well in order to ensure good cat health and cleanliness. Weekly changing is best, this ensures that odors and wetness won't have too much time to build up to unacceptable levels and it also reduces the likelihood of sickness due to high levels of bacteria.

2. Stress. A cat eliminating outside of the litter box may also be a sign for stress. The introduction of a new person or animal into the household may be putting a lot of stress on your cat. Cats generally like to feel like they know what is going on and what they can expect. If you upset that balance by introducing a new creature (even a two legged one) into the household they may get stressed which can cause them to eliminate outside the box.

If you leave your cat alone for long periods of time (for example while you take vacations or go on business trips) and you come back you may notice that your cat will sometimes seem aloof and standoffish. This is another instance in which your cat may react with eliminating outside the litter box as a sort of protest to what she perceives as being abandoned.

A new piece of furniture, or conversely, a newly missing piece of furniture may also put stress on your cat. Order and comfort are important if you are a cat. If you decide to get rid of that old fabric sofa because of it's ugly pea green color and because it's falling apart at the seams and then you replace it with a brand new, slick, top of the line, leather sofa with a refrigerator built into the side, and a massage and heating function, your cat is unlikely to see this as a stylish upgrade the way you would. What your cat will probably see is that one of her favorite nap spots has disappeared only to be replaced by something she is unfamiliar with and intimidated by.

3. Changing Litter Brands. Cats are creatures of habit and can also be quite finicky (remember Morris, the 9 Lives cat?). If you've recently switched the brand of litter you usually buy this may be cause for your cat to find another place to go. Some litters are perfumed (for humans rather than cats) and your cat may not react well to these smells, or perhaps your cat was used to a less dusty type of litter, a particular litter's texture, or who knows what. Changing brands or types of litter may upset what your cat is comfortable with and the result may be a messy carpet. If you suspect this to be the cause, you can either switch back, or gradually introduce the new litter. Try mixing in a little bit of the new litter with the older brand at first and gradually step up the percentage of the new litter each time you change the box, eventually you will be able to replace the older brand altogether. This will help your cat ease into the new litter brand rather than upset her sense of the order of things.

4. Multiple Cats. As mentioned above a second animal may cause a cat to begin to eliminate outside of the litter box, but this may not necessarily be the result of stress. A second cat in your household should probably have his own litter box unless your cats have proven they don't mind sharing. Again, remember cats are clean creatures and they can be territorial as well. Some cats may not mind using the same box, but others may refuse, which means again, the carpet becomes litter box number two.

5. Litter Box Size Or Placement. If the litter box does not provide enough room for your cat she may not use it at all. Your cat will likely want to scratch around and be able to feel comfortable in the litter box. Make sure it is roomy enough, easy for your cat to get in and out of (the sides of the box should be lower for kittens than for adult cats), and not in a high traffic area as cats seem to like some degree of privacy when eliminating. Lastly, make sure your cat has access to the litter at all times. Putting your litter box in a room that is closed on occasion is a recipe for disaster. If your cat has to go and she can't get to the room that you've put the litter in then she really will have no other alternative than to find another suitable area to eliminate.

6. Medical Issues. Your cat may be experiencing kitty incontinence. Like humans, incontinence can strike animals and this may be an indication of other medical issues with your cat. As a cat ages, she becomes more likely to lose control of her bodily functions just like a human does. If you suspect age or medical reasons may be the cause for your kitty's litter box problems then you should take her to the vet for an examination, advice and possible treatment to resolve the problem.

WHEN YOUR CAT MAKES A MESS
If your cat does make a mess outside of the litter box it is generally not good practice to scold her or punish her. Putting her nose in the mess and then tossing her in the litter is not going to solve your problem. Being upset with your cat is natural after such an incident, but to display this behavior and then to put her in the litter box is only making your cat associate the litter box with a bad experience. Your cat may also begin to learn to be afraid of you, which is obviously not what you want. Your best solution is to clean up the mess quickly. Put your cat in the litter box and be friendly and speak in a calming voice with the cat. Scrape the clean litter with your fingers and make sure your cat sees this behavior, hopefully it will sink in. To avoid having your cat defecate in the same place outside the litter box a second (or third) time, cover the area with a plastic sheet or something hard that will result in your cat splashing herself with her own urine if she should chose that place to defecate again. Clean the smell as best you can (white vinegar may help, but make sure your furniture or carpet can handle it). You can also move her food dish on top of or near the area that she used to defecate, a cat will not want to defecate near her food source. If your cat uses the litter again, even just once, reward her, play with her, pet her, give her a treat, make her associate the litter box with a good experience rather than a bad one.

A cat that eliminates outside of the box is not a lost cat. Don't give up on her until you've explored the possible reasons for the problem. Once you find it, you can most likely correct it and kitty and human can live a happy co-existence once again.

Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related grapchics and gift merchandise.

Shih Tzu Taking Your Shih Tzu Off The Leash

Writen by Connie Limon

Many shih tzu owners are anxious to give their four legged companions the freedom of going off leash, but it is important not to rush that important step. Shih Tzu should only be allowed off their leash after they have become masters of all the basic obedience commands, such as walking at your heel, sitting and staying on command

Another skill that must be completely mastered before the shih tzu can be taken off the leash is the come when called command. Even if the shih tzu can heel, sit and stay perfectly, if he cannot be relied upon to come when called, he is not ready to be taken off the leash.

Taking any dog off the leash, especially in a busy, crowded area, or one with a lot of traffic, is a big step and not one to be taken lightly. It is vital to adequately test your shih tzu in a safe environment before taking him off his leash. After all, the leash is the main instrument of control. You must be absolutely certain you can rely on your voice commands for control before removing the leash.

After the shih tzu has been trained to understand the sit, stay and come when called commands, it is important to challenge the shih tzu with various distractions. It is a good idea to start by introducing other people, other animals, or both, while the shih tzu is in a safe environment like a fenced in yard. Have a friend or neighbor stand just outside the fence while you hold you shih tzu on the leash. As the friend or family member walks around the outside of the fence, watch your shih tzu's reactions closely. If he starts to pull at the leash, quickly tug him back.

Repeat this exercise until the shih tzu will reliably remain at your side. After this, you can try dropping the leash, and eventually removing the leash and repeating the distraction. It is important to vary the distractions, such as introducing other animals, other people, traffic, rolling balls, etc.

After your shih tzu is able to remain still in the face of distraction, start introducing the come when called lessons with distractions in place. Try inviting some of the neighbors, and their dogs, over to play. As the dogs are playing in the fenced in yard, try calling your dog. When the dog comes to you, immediately give him lots of praise, and perhaps a food reward. After the dog has been rewarded, immediately allow him to go back to playing. Repeat this several times throughout the day, making sure each time to reward the dog and immediately allow him to go back to his fun.

After the dog has seemingly mastered coming when called in his own yard, try finding a local dog park or similar area where you can practice with your dog. It is important to make the area small, or to choose a fenced in area, in case you lose control of the dog. If you cannot find a fenced in area, choose an area well away from people and cars. Practice with your dog by allowing him to play with other dogs, or just to sniff around, then calling your dog. When he comes to you, immediately reward and praise him, then let him resume his previous activities. Doing this will teach the dog that coming to you is the best option and the one most likely to bring both rewards and continued good times.

Only after the dog has consistently demonstrated the ability to come when called, even when there are many distractions around, is it safe to allow him time off leash. Off leash time should never be unsupervised time. It is important, both for your well being and your dog's, that you know where he is and what he is doing at all times. It is easy for a dog to get into trouble quickly, so you should always keep an eye on him, whether he is chasing squirrels in the park, playing with other dogs, or just chasing a ball with the neighbor's kids.

Connie Limon is a shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems And How To Solve Them Part 2

Writen by Lori Anton

In part one of this 3-part instructional we pointed out that some canine behaviors are ingrained, while others are learned. We also highlighted successful ways to control excessive barking. In part 2 we will deal with effective techniques to stop biting.

Canine Behavior Problems: Biting

According to the U.S. Disease Control Center in Atlanta, Georgia, about 1,000,000 people in the United States are bitten by dogs every year. The majority of victims are children between the ages of 5 and 8; in most cases, the biting dogs were house pets.

Dogs bite for a variety of reasons. Dogs may bite or display threatening behavior when they are angry, afraid, agitated, over-excited, or when challenged or seeking to protect.

The first thing to do when confronted with biting dogs is to discern "why" the dog behaved aggressively. If the dog was being teased or felt threatened, the problem may not be with the dog. Instead, fault may lie with whomever or whatever teased him or made him feel threatened.

Some dogs bite or snap at their caregiver's hands when the caregiver tries to take something away from them. According to Barbara Woodhouse, internationally known dog trainer, canine behavior expert, and author of Barbara Woodhouse's Encyclopedia of Dogs & Puppies, the best cure for such aggressive behavior is to "return violence with violence."

Effective Ways to Stop Biting Dogs

When the dog attempts to bite, the caregiver should act swiftly by suspending the dog off his front legs by his choke chain; at the same time, scold in a violent tone of voice, "No bite!" The dog should be allowed back on his front legs only after he shows signs of discomfort (usually within 10 seconds). Once subdued; caress and praise him.

This process should be repeated every time the dog attempts to bite; he must be forced to respect your authority. While this type correction may sound cruel, it is not. Curing the dog of biting using this means is much kinder than having the dog sentenced to death in the gas chamber because of injuries inflicted on someone he bit.

Inexperienced caregivers may have a difficult time correcting their dog this way; if that is the case, the help of an expert dog trainer should be sought.

Preventing Aggressive Behavior in Dogs that Leads to Biting

Some dogs are so naturally protective of their owner they attack anyone who approaches, without being given a command. This can be quite dangerous. Allowing a dog to lunge toward people could very well lead to other aggressive behaviors, such as biting.

One of the best methods to prevent this type aggressive behavior in dogs is to take the dog among crowds – muzzled if necessary. Get people to touch him (muzzled), and give him a sound scolding if he attempts to attack.

Another effective method is to get someone who trains dogs to snatch him from you and really shake him (by his choke chain) when he shows signs of vicious behavior. He must be defeated, and then praised for submitting.

What About Puppies that Bite?

Puppies are notorious for biting and nipping during play. One mistake people often make with puppies that bite is to let them get away with it. Caregivers often think such behavior is cute and believe the puppy will naturally grow out of it without intervention. The reality is that such "innocent" biting and nipping can become a learned bad habit, difficult to break once the puppy is older.

Caregivers should address nipping and biting early on, instead of waiting until the puppy has grown and the problem more difficult to correct. Puppies are not like children; they are growing dogs. And dogs need training and an understanding but firm, consistent hand to teach them what is acceptable and what is not. Correction methods for young puppies that bite are different than methods for grown dogs.

How to Handle Aggressive Behavior in Puppies

When a puppy bites hard enough to hurt he must be corrected firmly. Say "No bite!" in a firm tone. If that doesn't work, use what is called "the shakedown method," which resembles what the mother dog does to her pup to keep order in the litter. Shake the puppy by catching hold of the loose skin of its neck on both sides under the ears. Repeat "No bite!"

Correcting aggressive behavior in puppies older than 12 weeks is done the following way: grab the puppy by the scruff of the neck with both hands, and lift him off his front feet, if necessary. Make the puppy look you straight in the face, and repeat "No bite!" If you sound angry enough, the puppy will understand.

This correction method must be consistent. If you permit a puppy to bite one time, but get annoyed and correct him the next, the puppy will become confused and will not learn effectively.

Puppies are especially likely to bite or nip children who play with them either for too long a period, or are too rough with them. When a puppy shows signs of being tired of being "mauled" during play, it is time to let the puppy rest. Put the puppy away in his box or pen, and instruct others to leave him alone and let him rest.

Under no circumstances slap a puppy or dog's nose to discipline him; this is cruel, as well as ineffective. And always give plenty of love and praise for submissive behavior after correction has been administered.

At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. In part 3 of this 3-part instructional we discuss the problem of jumping. Read part 3, "How to Prevent Dogs and Puppies from Jumping up on People" at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com/category/dog-care-articles.com

©2006 Lori S. Anton
Savvy Dog Lover editor

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit www.savvy-dog-lovers.com – where the best bones are buried!

Birds On High So Rare

Writen by Michael Russell

I write this as a memorial to the most innocent of birds. These were noble trusting souls. It is likely they had known only one human in their lives. The next human they came in contact with was their last.

I have never told this tragic tale before. I was warned not to. It is over twenty years since it happened.

I was stationed on a high peak overlooking a long lake in the Rocky Mountains. I watched for fires and lightning strikes in the forest below me. The only way up to the lookout building was by helicopter.

The landscape near the summit was a desolate rocky, snowy, windswept plateau. Only in late summer did the snow completely melt, then the bare rocky summit was highlighted by patches of moss and the occasional severely stunted evergreen shrub.

The birds that frequently wandered over the rocky moss covered plateau were about the size of a small chicken. The birds were a light mottled grey colour. They were Mountain Ptarmigan which usually walked around in a group, searching for food. They looked like a family of birds. They behaved like a mother and her nearly adult chicks. I would see the flock every day or two meandering along the moss-covered areas of the plateau, searching for seeds or bugs to eat. Sometimes they would walk by the lookout. I would go outside to see how close they would let me approach. They were not very afraid of me but they had a comfort zone. It was a distance boundary I was not allowed to cross. I could come as close as fifteen feet before they would turn and walk away. They seemed to be very calm and curious.

One day when the birds came by I thought about trying to catch one. There was a storage area at the bottom of the lookout tower. I went outside and opened the three foot square door to the lookout ground floor storage area. Inside was a flat dirt floor with some paint cans stored in a corner. First I slowly circled the birds and moved behind them. I was then in a position to drive the birds past the lookout's open door. The birds moved forward toward the open door. I had to startle them a little for this to work. Moving quickly they scurried by the lookout and one went in the open door way. I closed the door to give the bird time to calm down. Using a flashlight I went inside the storage area and caught the bird in the corner of the room.

The Ptarmigan weighed almost nothing. I was surprised at how light it was to hold. It felt like holding a bird skeleton covered with feathers. I gently stroked its head and back feathers trying to calm it. I did not wanting to stress the bird out for too long, so took it outside and let it go on the ground. It scurried away to a safe distance.

The next time the helicopter pilot came to deliver supplies he saw the Ptarmigan flock wandering about on the plateau not far from the helipad, so he knew where the birds were.

One day the pilot was talking on the radio, while he was working in the area. He mentioned the Ptarmigan. He planned to go hunting, and might get himself some birds. I didn't think that was at all sporting, since the birds had very little fear of humans.

One afternoon a helicopter flew to the lookout helipad and landed. There was no delivery scheduled for that day. The helicopter was shut down. The pilot and another man got out. The pilot took out a rifle case from the helicopter. He removed a shotgun from the case. He walked toward the flock of Ptarmigan which weren't far away. It was like shooting ducks in a barrel. The birds had no idea what was happening. The pilot walked up close enough so he had no chance of missing the birds. One by one he shot all the birds. It was a sickening, cowardly act. Not sporting at all. That was it for my birds. In a few seconds they were all dead.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Birds

What To Look For When Buying A Heated Dog Bed

Writen by Valerie Goettsch

A fur coat helps keep the cold out, but sometimes it's not enough for your dog, particularly if he/she is older, has arthritis, or is recovering from illness or surgery. Whether your dog has short or long hair, cold winter nights—and days—can chill him. A heated dog bed may be the answer to help your dog stay warm and cozy even in the dead of winter.

There are many heated dog beds available on the web and in stores. Some are better than others. The most important factor is safety. If you are in the market for one, here is what to look for:

• The heated dog bed should be UL and CUL certified to ensure safety and ideally have a steel-wrapped cord in case your dog is a chewer.
• Dual thermostats are preferable to automatically ensure consistent temperature; 102 degrees is an optimal temperature for dogs. Look for a heated bed that provides a full-range, variable heat control. This allows you to adjust the heat from off to full temperature heat quickly and easily.
• The best heated beds have a heater that keeps the surface temperature of the bed about 12 to 15 degrees above ambient air temperature. When your dog lies on the bed, the temperature warms to a cozy 102°. Because the heater from the warmer insert only warms up when your dog is on the bed, it doesn't waste a lot of energy. Depending on the size of the bed, most heated beds use 6-13 watts.
• Look for a bed with a removable heater insert so you can wash the bed and use it year-round without the heat.
• Read the product information carefully. Some heated beds are designed for indoor use only, while other beds, such as heated kennel mats, are suitable for outside use.

Heated dog beds come in a variety of styles. They include orthopedic heated beds with thick orthopedic foam to cushion joints and reduce pressure points; pillow-style beds with a heater inside; igloo style half-rounded heated pads to fit in igloo dog houses; heated, oval beds for small and toy-breed dogs; and heated kennel mats for use outside.

Another option is a thermo-wave microwavable dog bed warmer. You just heat the warmer in your microwave and put it into your dog's bed. It becomes soft and pliable when warmed. Good ones will have two sides for adjustable warmth, will be made out of non-toxic material, and stay warm for up to 12 hours.

Never use a human heating pad for your dog. They are designed to be placed on top the body and not for being laid upon. Heating pads for humans get much hotter than a dog's body temperature and may cause injury.

Valerie Goettsch is webmaster of My Favorite Dog featuring articles and information on heated dog beds, dog health issues, training, and more.

The German Spitz

Writen by Michael Russell

A "Spitz-type" breed is a dog that is compact of body, with dense stand off coat, tail curled over the back and a fox appearance to the head. The German Spitz in appearance is quite similar to that of a small Chow, with less ruff at the neck and a more fox-like appearance to the head. Archaeological findings date the German Spitz to dogs that were of similar body build and size during the Stone Age.

Historically in Germany the German Spitz has been divided into five separate sizes. All sizes of the Spitz can be found in Germany today. Actually these dogs are all considered separate "breeds" but are classed in the F.C.I. (European dog club classifications) as members of the entire "family" of German Spitz. The Spitz family ranges from the 19 inch size (known as the Keeshond) down to the 7-8 inch variety known as the Pomeranian. The Keeshond and the Pomeranian are the sizes most commonly seen in Britain and in the United States. Australia only recognizes the standard size in their dog shows. The breed standard of the F.C.I. distinguishes all variations by size and markings or color but all within the one classification of "German Spitz" while the A.K.C. recognizes the varieties as separate breeds. In Great Britain the Kennel club allows exhibits of all sizes and colorations within one class. At the Kennel Club shows this makes for an interesting and exciting class for spectators to observe, what with all the different colors and markings.

In all the varieties of the Spitz, the coat is termed a "stand-off" coat, meaning that the individual guard hairs stand away from the body and do not lie flat. This makes an easy care coat that requires little brushing to remain mat free. The outer coat is weather resistant and does not mat easily and except for seasonal shedding of the undercoat a weekly brushing is fine. The ears are always upright and the tail is always curled over the back, with shorter fur on the fronts of the legs.

The Spitz was commonly used in Germany as a drover's dog. Queen Victoria was responsible for the introduction of the breed into Great Britain, where it became popular as a companion dog and lap dog. In Great Britain the Pomeranian size gained the greatest popularity. The German Spitz has a lively and inquisitive nature, friendly and outgoing and non aggressive in all respects, making it a dog that blends easily into a household with children and other animals. They are a bit reserved with strangers and give a good warning as a watchdog but are not known for displays of bad temper. The high intelligence and easy trainability of the German Spitz makes it a popular obedience candidate and it is lively enough to be a good agility prospect also. This is a breed that no doubt would make more of a mark in the United States if agility enthusiasts knew about it. The dog's size and temperament make it an ideal apartment dog, needing nothing more than one or two daily walks for exercise.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs