What Dogs Want With Their Regular Food

Writen by Babu Banik

The main problem with dog food is the dearth of digestive enzymes, beneficial and delicate vitamins that are so very important for the balanced growth of your dog. Though major dog food producers make every effort to provide a balanced diet of proper nutrients in digestible form, they fail on many counts.

One of the main reasons why manufactured dog food fails to be up to mark is the heating process that includes its manufacture. Commercial dog foods are heat processed during their manufacture which in process destroys the beneficial bacteria and digestive enzymes your dog needs. The extreme heat is also the reason for destroying a host of other delicate and useful nutrients. Even the finest, most dietary dog food on the market fails to provide all the essential vitamins and nutrients dogs need to flourish healthily.

The gap between what your dog needs and what commercial dog food provides leads to deficiencies which are the cause of issues with your dog's digestive tract and immune system. Over time, these deficiencies show up as symptoms such as hot spots, infections, itchy skin, etc. and lead to:

• Weight loss
• Gas problems
• Joint pain
• Ear problems
• Allergies
• Stool eating
• Shedding
• Itching
• Scratching
• Skin problems
• Bad dog odor
• Bad dog breath

Now the question that arises is "Why does it happen?" The answer is simple. They all are starting with the same deficiency as the dog food lacks digestive enzymes, delicate nutrients or live bacterial cultures. This is what sets the stage for dog food supplement. The dog food supplements are full of vital dog vitamins and nutrients that keeps the dog healthy and away from all other dog health problems.

Being a responsible and concerned dog owner, you should be giving your dog a food supplement that has just the right mix of live good bacteria, digestive enzymes, delicate nutrients and vitamins that are necessary for its internal balance for keeping it healthy.

The best dog food supplement contains good and balanced amounts of bacteria, digestive enzymes, delicate nutrients and vitamins. Digestive enzymes are complex proteins formed in plant or animal cells involved in digestion that stimulate chemical changes in other substances working as organic catalysts to alter or speed up the assimilation of specific nutrients. The catalytic effect of these enzymes is very nutrient specific. Some of the enzymes work on specific starches, some on specific proteins and some on others fats. Without these digestive enzymes acting as catalysts, nutrients just pass right on through, unutilized.

The dog food supplements are a rich source of nutrients in a form that your dog can use to grow, be energetic and be capable of repairing its own body. Nutrients are chemicals ingested by living organisms that are necessary for basic survival. The basic nutrients that are required for cellular survival are protein, carbohydrate, fat, vitamins, minerals, and water. Extreme heat is the main cause of destruction of healthy and essential nutrients in commercial dog food.

Dog food supplements also contain bacteria that are essential to keep your dog healthy. These bacteria keep the other harmful bacteria and yeast in check, thereby aiding digestion, boosting the immune system, and increasing resistance to infection. These bacteria function is several ways. They produce organic compounds that change the pH balance which acts as a deterrent for the survival of harmful, disease causing bacteria and yeast. They also produce compounds that act as natural antibiotics.

Most of today's commercial dog food disturbs the internal balance of your dog's body. The solution is to use the right dog food supplement that helps in improving and maintaining your dog's good health so as to restore his internal balance. When these supplements are added to your dog's diet; digestive enzymes, bacteria and delicate nutrients work to restore the balance that are missing in your dog's food.

If a natural dog food supplement meets your dog's nutritional needs, your emotional needs, and your budget, then as a caring and responsible owner, you should buy it. It's a small price you would pay for a healthy and energetic dog.

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Puppy And Kitty Care

Writen by Grant Carroll

It's important to have the right pet supplies and knowledge for proper puppy care and kitty care. Just as a child's body is different from an adult's, a dog's or cat's body is very different when it's young. A young pet has special nutritional, physical and even mental needs, so a responsible owner must have the pet supplies needed before the little one joins the family.

During their first year, the most important pet supply to have on hand is food. It's well known that puppies and kittens burn calories and protein at a much higher rate than adults because of their accelerated growth. The reason why they have this accelerated growth is because it served their ancestors well in the wild. Back then, a young pup or cub would be easy prey, so they had to mature quickly and have offspring of their own to propagate the species. Make sure to buy from a reputable quality pet supply store and get the food that's made specifically for puppies and kittens.

Aside from food, the other pet supplies that are a necessity are dog toys and cat toys. In addition to physical growth, puppies and kittens learn things during their first year that stay with them for life. The first year is crucial in molding a cat's or dog's behavior, so it's important to interact with them. One of the best ways to interact with them is through playtime. Playing is good exercise for them (and you), and it teaches them that humans are friends and companions. Sadly, those pets abused during this time are often scarred for life, and have serious trust issues. Whatever pet toy you get, make sure it's not too small so that they won't swallow it. For puppies, a Kong dog toy is a good investment because it's durable and won't mess up your house. Playing "tug-o-war" with a rope puppy toy is a good way to build their strength and confidence, too. For kittens, try a cat toy with bright colors. It's important to get cat toys that will safely satisfy their natural curiosity.

Since house breaking and litter box training are essential, the proper pet supplies for this need to be on hand from day one. Get a small dog crate and hold your puppy in it overnight and for periods when you can't watch them. They instinctively don't want to go in their own area, so you can use that to your advantage. Take them straight from the dog crate to outside, and they'll eventually get the idea. For cats, be sure to get a quality litter box and give your cat their own space. Cats naturally want to dig when they eliminate, so just keep showing them the litter box after they eat. It might be a good idea to get a small pet crate for your cat as well if you plan on traveling with him or her. An extra safety tip for cat owners is to keep cats away from the dryer machine. Cats like being in cozy, closed off places, and they will jump in the dryer when your not looking, which can lead to disaster. With these pet supplies and the proper care, any puppy or kitten will grow to be a happy and healthy pet.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Little Pampered Babies where you can find Unique Baby Clothes and Toddler Clothing.

Shih Tzu Common Parasites In Dogs

Writen by Connie Limon

Some common parasites affecting shih tzu and dogs in general are: Chiggers, coccidiosis, fleas, flies, giardia, heartworm, hookworms, lice and mange.

There are three basic forms of parasitism: Internal organs, blood and skin. The geographical region in which you live will determine which parasites can affect your shih tzu.

Worms are a common parasitic infestation and one cause of diarrhea. The presence of diarrhea, however, does not mean a definitive diagnosis of "worms." Definite diagnosis is made by a veterinarian, under microscopic examination, of a fresh fecal or blood sample. Only a veterinarian who has made the determination of the type of parasitic infestation should prescribe medications to treat the infestation.

Chiggers affect man and dogs and are prevalent in southern U.S. Areas. Eradication if chiggers is generally best achieved by manual removal. Prevention is somewhat effective if you will limit your shih tzu to manicured grass.

Coccidiosis cause an enteritis condition of cats and dogs. Coccidiosis is most common in puppies and kittens. Symptoms are mild to severe bloody diarrhea, lethargy and weakness from dehabilitation of nutrients caused by the diarrhea, anorexia and death if not treated. Coccidiosis is seldom fatal when treated with the proper medication by the veterinarian who diagnoses the parasite in a timely manner. Coccidiosis is always present among canines. Some canines become carriers and have no symptoms themselves. Excessive stress can cause symptom producing coccidia in very young puppies and kittens that can become life threatening if not treated properly.

Fleas are most common to dogs of any breed including the shih tzu. Fleas constantly bite and can produce allergic reactions in some shih tzu or any breed of dog. A sensitive dog will scratch and chew to relieve the itch, only to produce a "hotspot" or some other type of skin dermatitis which can lead to a secondary infection.. Fleas can also act as temporary hosts in tapeworms' life cycles. A dog can acquire a tapeworm as it chews and ingest the fleas. Tapeworms can be effectively treated by your vet. The best protocol is to avoid fleas altogether. Flea control is comparatively easy through a wide selectin of products including soaps, shampoos, sprays, powders, dips, natural and herbal treatments.

Giardia is usually found around remote bodies of water. It can occur in dogs or shih tzu of any age and can be transferred to humans. Onset is usually sudden. Symptoms are diarrhea, lethargy, lack of appetite and weight loss. Diagnosis is made by fecal microscopic examination. Resolution is successful provided treatment is initiated early.

Heartworm occurs in two forms throughout the lower forty-eight states. One is harmless, the other if left untreated is deadly. The heartworm is carried by mosquito bites. Diagnosis is made through a blood test. Regular prophylactic treatment is available and highly recommended.

Hookworms are found primarily in the southern portions of the United States. Infection may also be transferred to puppies from the mother's milk. For this reason, all newborn puppies need to be regularly dewormed starting at 2 weeks of age up until at least 12 weeks of age following the recommendations and schedule of your own personal vet. There are a variety of dewormers available that completely eradicate the problem of hookworms.

Mange occurs in one of two forms: Demodex or Sarcoptes. Positive diagnosis can be made only by a veterinarian under microscopic examination of skin samples taken from an affected area. If treated early, mange can be completely cured. Treatment is usually by therapeutic shampoor or dips once a week for several weeks. Prevention of the mite infestations that can cause Sarcoptes mange is recommended. Ask your vet for appropriate mange mite medication to prevent the disease. The same mites that cause mange in dogs and shih tzu can cause ear mites and ear infections.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For Success With Your Dog

Writen by Adam Katz

I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.

The funny thing about this house is that—when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.

Well, practically every other house I've ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right side—or at least on the same side as the sink.

And I'll be a monkey's uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I've walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn't instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.

This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a command—you continue to say, "come" and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.

Your dog should be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic response— Coming when called is responded to in much the same way that hearing a car backfire might make you duck your head, or cover your ears.

As I've already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we're animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.

Just like our dogs.

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: dog training

The Gordon Setter Beauty And Brains

Writen by Michael Russell

The Duke of Gordon is known as the "founding father" of the Gordon Setter breed, although the dogs were known throughout Scotland and England as early as the 16th century. In the United States the Gordon Setter was entered into the A.K.C. registry in 1892. This beautiful and flashy bird dog, a hunter of pheasants, quail and other game birds, still retains a strong "birdsense" . In the modern world they are also adept at obedience and agility and of course are well known in the conformation ring.

Like all the hunting dogs with strong instinct, the Gordon is a dog that will thrive on plenty of exercise and chances to explore. They are not safe unless in a fenced in area or on supervised walks, as they investigate their environment with their noses and following the trail of a squirrel is second nature to them!

The Gordon Setter Club of America mentions three medical conditions which Gordon owners should be aware of. Like many of the deep chested breeds, the Gordon Setter is susceptible to Gastric torsion or bloat, which is life threatening. Also hip and elbow dysplasia can be a problem, as well as thyroid deficiency.

The Gordon Setter weighs between 50-80 pounds and is between 23-26 inches in height. This is a dog with moderate bone and should be of moderate size, as being overly large in the field is not an advantage to a hunting dog. The coat is similar in nature to that of the flat coat retriever, being a coat which lies close to the body and being slightly wavy and feathered on the legs, ears, tail and underbelly. The Gordon has a tail that is constantly wagging and in motion this tail is carried out and proudly waving as he gaits. The color of the Gordon setter is a major consideration as it follows a specific "rule" which can deviate very little. The dog is black with rich tan or red chestnut markings over the eyes, around the muzzle, on the throat, chest and insides of the hind legs and on the forelegs. Any other color is not eligible to compete in the show ring and should not be used for breeding.

The Gordon Setter is a fun loving and highly enthusiastic dog. They are puppies until at least the age of two, seeming to have boundless energy and enthusiasm. This is a dog which needs consistent training. However they are not considered "hard headed" and they do need to have a gentle but firm master. Once trained in obedience, the dog will respond well to his family and is a loyal and intensely affectionate companion. He is a dog which needs one owner or one family and does not often make overtures to strangers, being aloof but not aggressive by nature. They do not make good "kennel dogs", as they are needy of human companionship. Gordon Setters are protective of children and will tolerate much from their young charges.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

The Myth Of 100 Complete Processed Pet Foods

Writen by Dr. Randy Wysong

Every day, people by the millions pour food from a package into their pet's bowl. Day in and day out, meal after meal, pets get the same fare. This strange phenomenon is not only widely practiced, but done by loving owners who believe they are doing the right thing. Why? Certainly because it is convenient, but also because the labels state that the food is "complete and balanced," "100% complete," or that the food has passed various analytical and feeding test criteria.

Furthermore, manufacturers and even veterinarians counsel pet owners about not feeding other foods such as table scraps because of the danger of unbalancing these modern processed nutritional marvels. The power of the message is so great that pet owners en masse do every day to their pets what they would never do to themselves or their children -offer the same processed packaged food at every meal.

Think about it: Our world is complex beyond comprehension. It is not only largely unknown; it is unknowable in the "complete" sense. In order for nutritionists and manufacturers to produce a "100% complete and balanced" pet food, they must first know 100% about nutrition. However, nutrition is not a completed science. It is, in fact, an aggregate science, which is based upon other basic sciences, such as chemistry, physics, and biology. But since no scientist would argue that everything is known in chemistry or physics or biology, how can nutritionists claim to know everything there is to know about nutrition, which is based upon these sciences? This is the logical absurdity of the "100% complete and balanced" diet claim. It is the reason a similar venture to feed babies a "100% complete" formula has turned out to be a health disaster.

Claiming that anything is 100% is like claiming perfection, total knowledge, and absolute truth. Has pet nutrition really advanced that far? Does a chemist make such a claim? A physicist? Doctor? Professor? Did Einstein, Bohr, Pasteur, Aristotle, Plato, or any of the greatest minds in human history make such claims? No. Has the science of pet nutrition advanced to the point where everything is known about the physiology, digestion and biochemistry of animals, or that everything is known about their food?

Certainly not.

The fact of the matter is that the "100% complete" claim is actually "100% complete" guesswork. At best, one could say that such a claim is the firm possibility of a definite maybe.

Each time regulatory agencies convene to decide how much of which nutrients comprise "100% completeness," debate always ensues and standards usually change. This not only proves that what they claimed before was not "100% complete," but this should also make us highly suspicious about what they now claim to be "100% complete."

Additionally, consider that in order to determine the minimum requirement for a certain nutrient - say protein - all other nutrients used in the feeding trials must be adequate and standardized. Otherwise, if vitamin E, for example, is in excess or is deficient, how would you know if the results of the study were because of the effects of protein or due to something amiss with the level of vitamin E?

If the minimum requirements for all 26+ essential nutrients were all set and absolutely etched in stone, then there would be no problem. But they aren't. They are constantly changing. This means each time any nutrient requirement is changed, all test results for all other nutrients using the wrong minimum for this nutrient would then be invalid. Most nutritionists simply ignore this conundrum, feeling like cowboys trying to lasso an octopus - there are just too many loose ends. But they continue to perpetuate the "100% complete" myth, and excuse themselves by saying they make adjustments when necessary.

The point is, don't believe the claim on any commercially prepared pet (or human) food that it is "100% complete and balanced." It is a spurious unsupported boast, intended to build consumer trust and dependence on commercial products - not create optimal health.

Unfortunately most people think animal feeding is a mystery. It is not. Animal nutrition is not a special nutritional science to which common sense human nutrition principles cannot be applied. Use the same common sense in feeding your pets that you use for feeding your family. Nutrition is not about some special ingredient or the absence of some boogeyman ingredient. Fresh foods fed in variety are always superior to processed food artifacts. If you feed processed foods, use discernment since just about anyone can create a commercial pet food. The pet food industry has hundreds of brands with officious and beguiling labels, all stamped with the approval of the FDA, USDA, State Feed Regulatory Agencies and the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Business profiteers and the occasional movie star are the most common force behind the labels. All one needs is a little money and they can go to any number of toll manufacturers and have them slightly modify a shelf formula. Dress it all up with a fancy package, a clever brochure and some advertising and voilà, another brand is added to the 20-billion-dollar pet food industry.

Nutrition is serious health business. The public is not well served by exclusively feeding products from companies without any real commitment to health … or knowledge of how to even achieve that.

For the past 25 years I have been a lonely voice in the wilderness trying to get people to understand the deadly health consequences of feeding processed pet foods exclusively. People want convenience in a bag and the industry wants the flow of billions to continue uninterrupted. In the meantime the scientific literature offers compelling proof that millions of animals have been maimed and died as a result of feeding thoroughly tested "100% complete" foods with the full imprimatur of government regulation. (Exactly the same thing that abounds in the FDA-pharmaceutical industry.) Examples of pet food disasters include dilated cardiomyopathy from taurine deficiency, potassium imbalances, fatty acid and carnitine deficiencies and numerous other problems that would be expected on a steady diet of dead, devitalized, carbohydrate-based processed foods. Moreover, the whole panoply of human chronic degenerative diseases such as cancer, obesity, arthritis, autoimmunities, dental deterioration and organ failure are at epidemic levels in the pet population … as should be expected on such a diet.

Not only is feeding the same processed food day in and day out a formula for disease, it is a cruelty to our pets. We take them from their interesting and active wild setting and confine them. That is one thing, but to not even offer them interesting natural meal variety is really quite inexcusable. The answer, like everything else good in life, is a little attention and common sense. Knowledge is the best beginning point. To learn more, obtain a copy of my book, The Truth About Pet Foods. I will also see to it that you get a free copy of my CD, "The Thinking Person's Master Key to Health," and the brochure, "How to Apologize to Your Pet," which will give you specific guidelines for how to prepare meals and treats to achieve Optimal Pet Health.

_____________________
Science, Volume 237, pages 764-8
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 199, pages 731-4
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 201, pages 267-74
Feline Practice, Volume 20, Number 1, page 30
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 202, pages 744-51
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 191, pages 1563-8
Journal of Nutrition, Volume 129, pages 1909-14
Journal of Nutrition, Volume 126, pages 984-8
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 203, pages 1395-1400
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 198, pages 647-50
Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice, Volume 19, pages 527-37
Veterinary Forum, Volume 9, pages 34-5
Veterinary Forum, Volume 9, pages 26-8
American Journal of Veterinary Research, Volume 62, pages 1616-23
Petfood Industry, May/June 1998, pages 4-14
Journal of Animal Science, Volume 75, pages 2980-5
Veterinary Business, Volume 2, page 1
Waltham International Focus, Volume 3, Number 1, page 9

Dr. Wysong is author of The Creation-Evolution Controversy, now in its eleventh printing, several books on nutrition, prevention and health for people and animals and over 15 years of monthly health newsletters. He may be contacted at Wysong@Wysong.net. A free subscription to his monthly newsletter is available at Wysong.net.

Grooming Your St Bernard

Writen by Robin Darch

St. Bernards are enormous and lovable dogs. As members of the working group of dogs, they were originally bred to help with mountain rescues in Switzerland. They are loyal, good-tempered dogs that are wonderful with children and make great pets if you have the space.

However, don't buy a St. Bernard unless you are prepared to spend some time and/or money on grooming. Since these dogs originated in snowy and cold Switzerland, St. Bernards have a thick dense coat.

There are both longhaired and shorthaired varieties of the breeds. The grooming is a little easier for the shorthaired type. A bristle brush is a good all-purpose brush for the breed but the St. Bernard coat can also benefit from some specialized brushes.

A slicker brush can be used to remove matting and dead hair, especially during the shedding season. Your dog will shed its under coat twice a year. To stimulate your St. Bernards circulation and remove a maximum amount of loose hair, try brushing the coat opposite to the way it lays naturally.

Brushing your St. Bernard every day is key to managing shedding and keeping your dog clean. The process, once mastered, should only take about 5 minutes a day.

Bathing your St. Bernard can be a daunting task. Unlike other smaller breeds, St. Bernards must be bathed outdoors or in a full sized bathtub. Use a hot water hose and gently soak your dog's coat. Once the coat is thoroughly wet, shampoo your dog with a mild pet shampoo.

You want to avoid using anything too harsh, no matter how dirty your dog gets. A gentle shampoo will not strip the natural oils from your dog's hair. It is recommended that you wash and rinse your St. Bernard with the shampoo at least twice.

Rinse thoroughly to avoid any residue left in the dog's undercoat. You can dry your dog to a damp dry state with towels and, depending on the season, let the dog air dry or blow dry the coat.

Many St. Bernard owners use special varieties of shampoo to help brighten the white part of the dog's coat. The white parts of the coat can be stained by dirt of other debris. These products can be added to the normal shampoo, or used in replacement of a regular dog shampoo. Certain varieties of whitening shampoo need to be left in the coat for five to ten minutes before rinsing it out.

If you'd like to soften your St. Bernard's coat you can use a small amount of human conditioner. As a final step, you can use a flea rinse. Generally, flea rinses protect your dog for 10 to 14 days after use.

Be very careful when administering the flea rinse. Read all instructions carefully and dilute the product properly. Avoid your dog's eyes when applying the rinse.

St. Bernards are prone to eye weeping which can cause staining on the face. There are special products available such as "Diamond Eyes" that can gently remove these stains. In between treatments, you can wipe away any reside gently with a washcloth.

Robin Darch, of PRT Specialised Services Limited has a website, My Pet Dog to help you find all the information you need about pet dogs, dog grooming and training.