Organic Dog Food And Making The Right Choice

Writen by Hanif Khaki

So what's the deal with Organic dog food?

As you know, dog food is available in a wide variety of colours, sizes, flavors, and shapes. The real distinction is obviously the ingredients contained in the products. You may be surprised to know that the ingredient list on dog food labels reads very much like human junk food. Some ingredients are even difficult to pronounce and are borrowed from medical encyclopedias. Then of course there are dog foods that are teeming with artificial ingredients, additives and preservatives that can be harmful to pets. So just what is "Spot" to do when it comes to healthy eating?

Many pet owners are discovering organic dog foods to feed their pets. Just as we humans are conscious of what we put into our bodies, these pet owners take that same consciousness and use it to make wiser decisions about not including chemicals in their dogs' diets. Organic dog treats are the next best thing to all natural dog food, as they are free of the pesticides and insecticides that are present in many foods.

Be aware of food labels however, as they can be very confusing. Natural dog food is not the same as "organic"dog food and this can be quite misleading for many. The fact is, "natural" foods are not held to the same higher standard as "organic" foods. The USDA must certify a food as organic, in order for the food to be labelled as such. Natural dog treats are considerably less costly than their organic counterparts, and as such are not deemed as reliable. Natural foods do however guarantee the absence of food colouring and additives such as sodium metabisulfite or ethoxyquin, which are allergens linked to allergies, cancer and even brain damage.

Even though organic food servings are pricier and contain about half the amount of food in volume compared to non-organic food, dogs are reportedly more satisfied with the lesser amount due to the purity of the healthier ingredients contained. This makes the organic and non-organic dog foods very comparable in price.

The bottom line is that choosing to feed your dog organic food instead of the preservative and chemically rich non-organic food can definitely go a long way in helping your dog live a more healthy and troublefree life free of allergies, skin ailments, diabetes and cancer. An added benefit may be the lower veterinary bills brought on by your healthier dog.

For further information on this topic, be sure to consult the many resources available to you online. Enjoy your dog in good health!

Hanif Khaki is the acclaimed author of numerous health related articles and the founder of the popular pet resource site http://www.dog-treats.inform-about.com

The Wonderful Bichon Frise

Writen by Sandra Oberreuter

Bichon Frises originated in the Mediterranean region and have existed since the Middle Ages. Bred as a lap dog for the French royalty they became court favorites in the 15th century. During the French Revolution they ended up on the streets. They were then caught and trained as circus dogs.

In French a Bichon Frise means curly lap dog. He is the best known member of the bichon family of dogs.

The Bichon Frise is a white powder puff. These little guys are affectionate, playful, charming yet dignified. They love human company and with their merry temperament he is a good companion. The cheerful attitude he has is the hallmark of this small dog breed.

They need people a lot and are most comfortable being close to thier owners. They enjoy being a lap dog. Bichon Frises like children more than many other small breeds and are good with other animals.

Bichon Frises can live in an apartment, condominium, or house, but they do enjoy walks. Sturdier than many dogs of their size they adapt to any environment as long as they are with people.

They have round dark eyes that have a inquisitive expression. Their ears are dropped and covered with long flowing hair. Skull is slightly rounded with a black nose. A plumed tail is carried over their back.

Their coat is loosely curled consisting of a textured outer coat with a soft undercoat which is curly, thus the powder puff look. The coat should spring back if touched. Their coats are white but can have shades of buff, cream, with apricot around ears or body. They are a non-shedding dog so he is popular with people who have allergies.

Bichon Frise's only get to 91/2 - 11 1/2 inches tall and weigh between 7-12 pounds.

These little dogs are easy to train but it should done gently and firmly with no scolding. They need to have socialization training as a puppy to learn manners since they are a highly sociable dog.

They are easily housebroken by using the crate method. They are intelligent but not always cooperative with this chore. Just establish a routine and stick to it but do add praise to further motivate them.

Regular brushing is needed. They require a thorough shampoo and rinse with combing it's curly coat while blow drying it. Use a slick brush. You will need to wipe around their eyes because of eye discharge as mucus accumulates in the fur in front of their eyes. Also, trim around the eyes and ears with blunt nosed scissors. A professional grooming is recommended to achieve the Bichon "look".

You need to brush their teeth 2-3 times a week with a yearly check-up.

Bichon Frise is generally healthy but are prone to:

Cataracts

Knee dislocations

Ear infections

Eye infections

Skin allergies

Early tooth loss

Bladder infections and stones

They love to eat so their diet must be watched so they don't become fat. A responsible breeder will give you instructions on feeding your puppy. You should feed him a premium dog food and puppy food till he is a year old. Feed him about one cup in a 24 hour period about 4-5 hours apart. Adult dogs are feed two meals a day.

Always provide fresh water.

Sandy has a web site on small dog breeds with information about choosing a dog, bringing home puppy, choosing a breeder, dogs good with children and seniors and much more.

http://www.small-dogbreeds.com

How To Pick A Dog Collar

Writen by David Amos

Dog collars come in a variety of colors, styles and even functions. There's the obedience or choke collar, bark control collars, flea collars, and a whole array of just dog collars. So which to choose?

If barking is an issue perhaps a bark control collar will do the trick. Bark control collars use two types of bark detection, either sound or vibrations from the dogs throat. Neither type is totally infallible; the vibration type can be set off by motion and the sound type by external sounds. However both have proved to be effective in helping control your dogs barking humanely. The best collars employ both methods at the same time to reduce the 'false' readings and help bring barking under control.

But once your dog has stopped barking what do you need to consider in a dog collar? One of the essentials of a dog collar is to make sure that it's personalized and has the dogs name and your contact details. This will make it easy for someone to get in touch with you if your dog gets lost. It can also help keep your dog calm in a distressing situation. While your dog may be amongst strangers, they will know his name from his collar and he'll feel less threatened if called by name.

Leather makes an excellent dog collar. It is very strong, head wearing, weather proof and comfortable for your dog. There are flat collars for dogs with shorter hair, and rounded collars for longer haired dogs. This is to stop breaking the hair around your dog's neck. Try and keep the dog collar as thin as you can while maintaining the strength for your dog's comfort.

Finally pick a dog collar that suits your dog's personality and size. After all it is part of your dog's image.

David Amos is a dog lover and long time dog owner. Click the link for more articles and resources on Dogs and Dog Collars

Dogtra Superior Dog Training Equipment That Performs As It Claims

Writen by Byron Pappageorge

Dogtra

When looking for a dog training collar or containment system, consider Dogtra as an option. This brand of training collar is exceptional in its quality and ability to perform as it claims. Dogtra has many choices and options for pet owners who are looking for a way to control their animal or to find a way to make the dog behave as it should.

Dogtra has many types of systems to help you achieve your goal. They provide systems to contain the animal, as well as bark collars. These products have been utilized by many industries as well. In industries where animals can serve people, teaching them the correct behaviors is key. These industries include firefighting and police departments, hunters, farmers, and even service dogs. These dogs can be trained to sniff out information or find people, or even to help the blind or deaf.

Dogtra's products are versatile to fit the dog's size and weight. Dogtra manufactures dog training collars for just about any dog. Most Dogtra systems come with a money back guarantee to help ensure customer satisfaction. Dogtra products are water resistant and many even have rechargeable batteries to limit your costs. Dogtra is a trusted brand in dog training collars.

Dogtra also offers its customers pet containment systems as well. These systems keep pets within their specified boundaries. If you do not wish to install a fence around your yard, a pet containment system by Dogtra will enable you to avoid this and still allow your pet the freedom to roam a selected area. They work by shocking an animal that comes too close to under ground sensors. The sensor transmits back to the collar that the animal is too close and the collar gives off a small electronic stimulation that is similar to static shock to tell the dog to back off. It is quite effective in containing an animal. Dogtra offers some of the best pet containment systems out there.

Whether you are in the market for a dog training collar or a pet containment system, consider Dogtra as a very reliable and cost effective option. With the level of confidence you can have in the systems from Dogtra, you can count on achieving your goal of animal obedience.

http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net

Byron Pappageorge

Getting A Puppy Into Your Apartment

Writen by Amanda Baker

You've searched all over and finally found the perfect apartment. You're so excited, until the owner tells you that he does not permit dogs on the premises. You heart breaks, although you know that you should have checked for this provision before you started looking. However, all may not be lost. All building owners do not have absolute pet policies. There are ways that you can work to convince even the most skeptical landlord that you will be a responsible pet owner.

In instances like this, money speaks loudest of all. Be sure to explain to your potential landlord that you will offer to make an additional deposit to cover pet damages. If the landlord allows a lease for your dog, add a clause indicating that you will pay for all damages, but you can also be specific in this clause by specifying that you will steam clean the carpets and stating the amount of the security deposit that will be additional because of your pet.

When you first speak to the landlord, mention that you are a pet owner. If the landlord seems unsure, ask if you can bring your dog along with you. The landlord may be more willingly convinced if your dog is well behaved on the visit. Also bring along a doggie "resume", listing any certifications, obedience schools, and references of people that can attest to your dog's good behavior. It may seem silly, but your willingness to prove his worth will make a positive impression on any potential landlord.

If the landlord is unconvinced, find out why and address the issues. Adding clauses to the lease agreement regarding your responsibility will help your case. Look into getting liability injury coverage for your dog, as this will certainly clear the landlord's mind should he or she have issues with the possibility of your dog biting someone.

After trying all of these, you may still sense a bit of skepticism. This is when you should back out of the arrangement and look for another property. Getting involved with a landlord who is closed-minded about approving a pet owner as a tenant is a very big mistake. You may move out to find that the landlord would blame any problem in the apartment, even routine maintenance issues, on your pet. Getting any money from your security deposit will likely be a major issue, if not downright impossible. Do not put yourself or your dog in this situation. Move on to the next landlord who will be willing to grant you a lease for your dog. No apartment is worth causing problems with your very best friend – your pet.

Amanda Baker writes for All Things Pondered.

Pets Looking For Humans Humans Looking For Pets

Writen by Jennifer Switkowski

Attention breeders, livestock owners and pet lovers!

*Pets looking for humans, humans looking for pets!*

A website has been formed to show your classified for
buying or your just wanting to search for a specific
kind of pet. You have plenty of space for writing
what is special about your pet or what it is that
you are looking for in a pet.

You also have the option of leaving a picture on the
site of the pet(s) in whick you are selling. We only
deal with persons in the United States to keep illegal
purchases from being made.

The cost is far lower than any classified ad, and has
the potential to reach far more people than a regular
newspaper would. With being able to use approximately
100 words, you are guaranteed to get attention drawn
to your ad! As a seller, you reserve the right to turn
anyone down who you feel unfit to have your animal.

There is no illegal sales allowed on this site, and
no sales of endangered species!

I believe that the prices are set at a fair and
reasonable level.

I have added a pet rescue page to the site as well.
If you have any names or numbers for me to put to the
list, I am more than happy to put the info on the site.

http://www.petclassifiedsusa.com

I am a mother of 2, a wife and a disabled veteran. I wanted to help out with money since I cannot get a 'regular' job. I chose to get into this type of business since I know that there are people all over the Unites States wanting to buy or sell pets and livestock. All animals need love, all humans need love.... bring them together and you have man and his best friend! 

No Fruit

Writen by Christi Upson

For those who feed the raw diet to your pets and claim that they do not need vegetables and fruits in their diets, I beg to differ. Let's examine the actual "diet" of the wild canines and felines.

They do, indeed, hunt their meat "on the hoof," as it were, but they do not, I suspect, empty the stomach contents of their prey, nor the bowels of their prey, before consuming it. At least, not entirely. That is one of their sources of vegetable matter. You think they don't need it? Have your dogs ever eaten the feces of other animals? Why do you suppose that might be? Because they crave the vegetable matter, perhaps?

Many years ago, we had a beagle-terrier mix that ran loose. She was free to eat the kibble dog food we provided, or hunt. We know that she hunted rabbits, squirrels and other wild prey. But, I was amazed to see her, one day, laying in the field in front of our house eating something. I got closer and she was eating a windfall apple. This was in a time before mankind was filling all our foods with hormones and preservatives; when wild and domestic meats were more 'organic.'

So, why would this dog be eating apples by choice? Perhaps because that was a part of the natural diet of the species? Have you ever observed your cats and dogs eating grass? It is commonly thought they do that to settle their stomachs for some reason, but I suggest that they do that as a part of their natural diet. Just as humans need a variety of sources of vitamins and minerals, I cannot imagine that the canines and felines in our lives don't need the same. Research indicates they do.

I am not a veterinarian, nor a scientist, simply an observer of my companion animals. The mother of my current Border Terrier gave me a mystery in 2003. I had planted one single tomato plant in my little garden plot, thinking that it was only for me. As the tomatoes ripened, I noticed that several came up missing. I thought that someone walking along the road was stealing them.

What I observed, finally, was this Border Terrier bitch eating my nearly ripe tomatoes. While I do not feed a raw diet, I do feed a decent premium kibble that has chicken and rice as the first two ingredients. Rice is known to be one of the less allergenic of the grains. I suspect that the other grains are allergenic because of the things that mankind does to them before they are fed to any animals, in any form (and humans).

While I don't disagree that a raw diet of natural meats would be beneficial to dogs and cats, I do disagree that they do not need fruits, vegetables or carbohydrates as part of their natural diet.

What they don't need, and neither do we humans, are the chemicals and hormones added to the feed of commercially raised animals. It is my sincere belief that these additives are not only detrimental to their health, they are detrimental to our own.

C. Rogers Upson is a published author on several websites and in several anthologies. This article can be published on your website or in your newsletter, so long as the resource information is intact and nothing is changed. Her website is http://www.edragonmarketing.com and she has a training tips blog at http://dogpotentials.blogspot.com.

How To Train Your Cat

Writen by Aidan Bindoff

Yes! Believe it or not you can train your pet cat to do almost anything a cat is physically capable of doing using humane positive reinforcement techniques using a process called Clicker Training.

Clicker Training is a method of training using the scientific principles of Operant Conditioning. Simpler than it sounds, clicker trainers use a plastic box noise maker called a "clicker" to mark the behaviour they want and follow up with a reward, usually a food treat.

By a process known as "shaping", clicker trainers mould their cat's behaviour into the behaviour they want.

Clicker Training can also be used to solve common cat problems such as spraying, scratching, clawing, climbing on kitchen benches and difficulties in administering medication. Clicker Training is a no-force method of training which is ideal for sensitive or no-nonsense animals such as cats.

Some of us, when learning to clicker train, decided to try it on our cats first, so we didn't make any mistakes with our competition dogs. We soon learned that it was impossible to make mistakes that couldn't be easily fixed using this method, unlike with traditional training methods where little mistakes tended to snowball into bigger ones or crop up when we least expected them. What's more, our dogs were having more fun, so were our cats, and so were we!

If you have a cat, or a dog, guinea pig, rabbit, goat, ferret, horse or pig, type "clicker training" into any search engine and discover a whole new world of training possibilities!

Aidan Bindoff is intensely interested in animal behaviour and works to remediate fearful, anxious and aggressive dogs in Australia. He also runs the FREE "Positive Petzine" featuring regular articles on dog behavior and training at http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/positivepetzine/.

How To Stop A Puppy From Biting

Writen by Chris S

So you've got a puppy that likes to bite?

The good news is that biting is a perfectly natural thing for a puppy to do, your puppy is not being vicious or aggressive. Most young puppies go through this biting or nipping phase as they are teething.

How To Stop A Puppy From Biting

It is very cute when very young puppies start to mouth or bite your little finger, but as they get a bit older it can develop into a real problem. That's why it is important to let your puppy know that biting is unacceptable behavior right from the start. It is much easier to prevent puppy biting problems than to re-train puppies who already nip.

Before I go into specific methods you can use to stop your puppy from biting it is important to keep these basic rules in mind:

• Never slap or hit your puppy in the face. This does not work! your puppy will just think you are playing rough or may become afraid of you. You could end up with much bigger problems than a bit of puppy biting.
• The general rule to stop problem nipping is to encourage acceptable behavior and always discourage unacceptable behavior.
• Never play tug of war or wrestling type games with a puppy who bites. It will only encourage him more.
• If you don't show your puppy that biting will not be tolerated, he will not know he is doing anything wrong. Don't expect your puppy to just know this!
• Whichever method you choose to correct your puppies biting problem the golden rule is be consistent! You and every other person who comes into contact with your puppy have to lay down the law every time your puppy has a nip.

Stop Your Puppy From Biting - Proven Techniques

1. If you catch the biting problem early on it may be very simple to fix. Just try to redirect the biting from your fingers to a toy or chew bone. This method is usually all you'll need if you have a very young puppy. As soon as your puppy starts to bite just say No! and replace your fingers with a chew toy.
2. My next favorite method is to make your dog think he is hurting you each time he has a nip. This method really replicates the way dogs sort this biting out amongst themselves. When they are biting and nipping each other it only stops when one puppy lets out a yelp. So we can use this natural way dogs learn by letting out an Ouch! or an Arrr! when your puppy starts to bite. Also as soon as you let out the Ouch! pull away and stop playing with your dog for a while. Your puppy will soon get the message that when he starts to bite, his playmate (you) goes away.
3. In bad biting cases as soon as your puppy latches onto your finger say No! and quickly put your thumb inside his mouth under his tongue and your other finger under his chin. Hold it there for about 10 seconds, (not too tightly) this will feel uncomfortable to your pup, and he won't be able to bite you.
4. Again if your puppy has a severe biting problem you can try this technique. Put on a pair of gloves and apply a foul tasting substance to it (something your dog doesn't like). Your dog will soon learn that if he bites you, it won't be tasty! This method produces a negative association every time your dog decides to bite you. Some dogs are smart enough to realise that when you take your foul tasting gloves off it is fine to sink their fangs into you again!
5. If you have an older puppy (4-5 months) that bites you can use this sure fire technique. Put a choke or pinch collar on your puppy and each time he bites you give the lead a short sharp tug. This again will be an unpleasant association to your dog every time he bites you. It won't take him long to stop.

A couple of other methods that have been recommended to me, but I have never tried myself:

• Spray your puppy with water every time he bites.
• Fill up an empty tin can with rocks or coins. Each time your puppy starts biting say No! and give the can a shake. He'll hate the noise.

Like I mentioned earlier, the most important piece of advice regardless of which method you choose is to be consistent.

Chris Smith is the owner of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com This site reviews
the very best do-it-yourself dog training systems available today.
If you want to train your puppy or dog at home, why not do it the right way?

The Chow Chow The Chinese Lion Dog

Writen by Michael Russell

The Chow Chow is an ancient breed from China. It is believed to be one of the oldest of the pure breeds and representations are found in Chinese sculpture dating as far back as 1000 B.C. It may be that he is the origin of many of the Spitz type breeds. The Chow Chow is commonly shortened to just one word, the Chow. He was used in China as a guarding and hunting dog and held in much favor in the Imperial courts. The Chow was a populous breed in China and was also raised as a source of food.

The Chow Chow is shown in the Non Sporting Group in the show ring in the United States. The coat is red, blue, fawn or black, with variations of light and dark in these colors and never with any markings of white. There are two varieties of the coat, the "rough" or long coated and the "smooth" or short coated. Both types of coat are dense and double. The Chow Chow's most distinguishing characteristic is the color of the tongue, which must always be blue-black in color. The pigment of the lips and gums must also be of the blue black color. The Chow Chow has deep wrinkles in his brow, making him appear to "frown" or "scowl" and this expression is another distinctive characteristic which is a part of the breed standard. The tail curls over the top of the back. The shoulders and neck of the Chow should have a large ruff, in appearance this should be like the mane of a lion and the legs on both the front and the rear should be heavily "feathered" with longer hairs on the backs of the legs. Chows need to be regularly groomed, the coat will mat and become impossible to care for if left untended.

The overall appearance of the Chow should be that of a nearly "square" dog, with a deep chest and lion-like look about his head and neck. He has a somewhat "stilted" gait, almost rolling in nature. He should move with deliberation and is a beautiful sight in the show ring.

The Chow Chow has a distinct character . This is a dog that displays a certain independence and often seems not to "need" human companionship. A person who is going to purchase a Chow needs to study this breed first and decide whether or not this is the breed for him. They are universally thought of as a "one man, one family" dog. They must be well socialized early in their lives, as they are "stand-offish" and do not fawn over people or demand attention. They are quite aloof and dignified and are not accepting of strangers. A well-bred and well brought up Chow Chow should not show aggression towards people. They are good watchdogs, setting up a bark to warn of strangers and are devoted and loyal to their immediate family or owner. Chows who are aggressive are usually the product of irresponsible breeding or irresponsible owners and are not representatives of the type of character the Chow should posses.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs.

Dog Boutiques Perfect Pampering For Your Pooch

Writen by Yoav Cohen

Believe it or not boutiques for dogs are everywhere. Nowadays, pampering your dog is just as important as pampering yourself. Dog boutiques offer everything from tempting organic treats to studded diamond collars. Some boutiques even offer overnight pampering packages for your favorite pet!

Dog Clothing from the Boutique

Every celebrity seems to have a well-dressed dog on his or her arms or by their side! One of the most popular choices of dog accessories from these boutiques is a collar, from diamond studded to bright red leather; every dog can find something that takes their (or their owners') fancy. Whilst there are many off the shelf options, increasingly these doggie outlets are offering made to measure individual options for the discerning pet owner.

Dog coats are also becoming a must have for every dog's wardrobe. A particularly popular choice is to have a coat that has your canine friend's name embroidered on the side in a color that complements your choice of collar.

Dog Edibles from the Boutique

Not only is it important that your dog looks great but he also wants to feel great! Take a look in your local dog boutique for the latest tempting treats. A great range that is increasing in popularity is the organic biscuits and other treats. What better way to reward your dog and also to keep him fit?

Pet Pampering Days

As well as the many items that you can take away, a specialist dog shop may offer you a 'spa' day for your canine friend or even a health break! These breaks will offer your dog a series of holistic treatments such as massage as well as organic foods and detox.

Never before has your dog been offered so much luxury and choice. Go on; visit your local dog boutique!

Yoav Cohen is an author for designer dog boutiques site.

How To Get A Pet Passport

Writen by Sean D

To help with allowing pets into the UK and also allowing them to travel around the European Union without having to go into quarantine the government requires they have a pet passport. The passport is issued by a government-authorised vet known as a local Veterinary Inspector (LVI) if your local veterinary surgery does not have a registered LVI working with them they should be able to give you the contact details for one in your area.

At the time of writing this article DEFRA the government department responsible for the overseeing of pet passports does not charge a fee for the passport, although you should check this yourself as with all information it is subject to change with out prior warning.

To get the passport your pet must have a microchip fitted, this is lodged under the skin and allows vets and government officials to scan the animal to check that it is the same one documented on the pet passport. After the microchip has been fitted your pet must be vaccinated against rabies. There is no exemption to this requirement, even if your pet has a current rabies vaccination. The final part of the procedure is a blood test; the test is to check that the vaccine has given your pet the correct level of protection against rabies.

Once you have the pet passport you can leave the UK for any European Union country but you must wait for 6 months after the blood sample that showed clear was taken before you can bring your pet back into the UK. This does not mean that you need to keep your pet out of the country for 6 months it just means that you should plan ahead, if you know that you plan to go to France until the beginning of September you should have had the blood test cleared by the previous February, it is a case of planning ahead.

Your vets should be able to help with all of the points outlined above, but I hope that this has given you a clearer guide to what you need to do, the passport is valid for two years for entry back in to the UK from the date of the vaccination although some other countries only give a year, so it is better to get it done sooner rather than later, to check for the latest details the DEFRA website is http://www.defra.gov.uk and there contact details can be found there.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare – give us a visit.

Great Ideas For Hamster Cages

Writen by Morgan Hamilton

It is really great to have a hamster as your pet. They are very cute and they like to chew different things but especially cloth. While cats and dogs are allowed to walk freely around your home, you don't let your hamster out of its cage. You do need to have a hamster cage in case you own one of these lovable pets. The cages come in many different shapes and sizes and have a variety of features for your hamster.

The most popular shape for hamster cages is rectangular. Because of this particular shape the hamster cages are usually put in a corner, so that they wouldn't stand in the center of the room and be on your way. When you feel like playing with your pet, you can easily take the hamster out but when you have stopped playing with it and are leaving the room it is good to make sure you have put it in its cage.

You should pay attention to your hamster's security because if it escapes from its cage, it might become a prey for animals. Many neighbours have cats and they can hurt your adorable little pet, so you should protect it from them. Consequently, if there are any cats around you should always lock your hamster in its hamster cage, so that it would be safe.

Just as any other mammal hamsters need a daily supply of water. Most of the hamster cages have a water bottle system. In cages made of wire there is a little ball at the end of the nozzle so that the water doesn't flow free but comes out when the hamster is thirsty. You can also buy little bows which can be used for feeding. They are put in the hamster cages and the pets can eat from them. There are several types of hamster food.

It is very important to keep your hamster fit as it needs regular exercises. You can help it by purchasing a small wheel that fits inside the hamster cages. This is how you will make sure your lovely pet will get some exercises when it is closed there. There are also such hamster cages which have plastic tubes which go through and around the cage. Their main purpose is to entertain the hamster and let it roam around its home.

Cleaning hamster cages is a very important task and should not be neglected for the well-being of both your little pet and yourself. To make it easy for cleaning, you can put a newspaper on the bottom of the hamster cage and also some wood chips. You just lift the paper and the wood chips out and replace them with new.

When living in a building where having animals is restricted taking a hamster might be just the way to have a pet. It is good for your children to have a pet like hamster as they will easily learn how to take care of a pet while playing and having fun with it.

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning pets. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting Hamster Cages

Equine Tetanus An Unnecessary Disease

Writen by Mark Andrews

Do you know anyone with a horse that has had tetanus? Probably not. Despite the fact that the organism responsible for the disease is often present in soil and horse manure, it is not a common disease. That is largely due to the widespread use of vaccination.

But that doesn't mean you can be complacent. Tetanus is an ever present threat to the health of your horse. In many cases the disease is fatal.

Tetanus is caused by a bacterium called Clostridium tetani. It produces spores, which are very resistant and can survive treatment with many disinfectants. In its active form, the organism thrives in conditions with little oxygen. So damaged tissue buried underneath the skin is an ideal habitat.

In horses, most cases of tetanus result from the organism getting into wounds. Contrary to what many think, it is not big gaping wounds that present the greatest risk. It is often the small puncture wounds that are the most dangerous. It takes between one and three weeks for signs of disease to develop after the animal has become infected. So the original wound has usually healed by the time the horse becomes unwell. Often the owner has not even noticed that their horse has had a injury.

Puncture wounds to the foot are a particular risk. They are often contaminated with soil - which is a good source of Clostridium tetani.

The nervous signs characteristic of the disease are caused by a neurotoxin that is released by the organism as it multiplies in the tissues. The toxin may be absorbed into the bloodstream and produce generalized signs. Less commonly it may be affect the nerves close to the wound and produce a localized spasm before spreading more generally.

The toxin causes progressive muscle rigidity. Affected horses often have a frightened expression because of spasm of the facial muscles. Their nostrils flare, their ears are held back and they have a wide-eyed appearance. They have difficulty chewing and opening their mouth. Often their tail is held up slightly. Affected horses walk stiffly ("like a board") without bending their neck. The muscles of the jaw "seize up" and the horse is unable to eat. That is the characteristic that gave the disease its old name of "lockjaw."

The spasms are made worse when the horse is stimulated. Any sudden noise or movement can be enough to set off bouts of muscle spasms. Often there is spasm of the muscle of the third eyelid, causing it to protrude across the eye. Eventually, horses with tetanus are unable to stand. Their respiratory muscles become affected and so they have difficulty breathing. Most cases will die.

What can you do if you think your horse has tetanus? Call the veterinarian straight away! Some affected animals may respond to treatment. But their chances of survival are much better if treatment is started as early as possible. Keep the horse in a cool dark stable. Avoid any sudden noises or movements. Putting plugs of cotton wool in the ears may help.

What is the likely outcome? Unfortunately many cases of tetanus will die. Some horses that only show mild signs when they are first recognized may respond to aggressive treatment. Even so, they will need careful nursing for two weeks or longer if they are to survive.

So how can you prevent your horse getting tetanus? An effective vaccine is available. There is initial course of two injections, followed by a booster after a year. Current vaccines require boosters at up to three year intervals. Tetanus is often included with the influenza vaccine. So horses that have been vaccinated against `flu will probably be covered against tetanus as well . But it is well worth checking to make sure.

In the vast majority of horses there are no adverse effects of vaccination. Occasional horses may develop a small lump after vaccination.

If your horse suffers an injury and has not been vaccinated, the veterinarian can administer tetanus antitoxin - the "antidote" to tetanus. But this only provides temporary protection for a couple of weeks. By far the most reliable way of protecting your horse from this frequently fatal disease is to make sure that he or she is fully vaccinated.

There is no excuse for any horse or pony not to be fully vaccinated against this disease. Prevention is always better than the cure - certainly for the horse - and for your pocket!

Copyright 2006 by Mark Andrews / Equine Science Update. This article may be freely used by newsletters and web sites without permission as long as the copyright notice, links and contact information remain unchanged. Mark Andrews, an experienced equine veterinarian, is author of The Foaling Guide, (http://www.thefoalingguide.com) and publisher of Equine Science Update. For the latest information in equine science, subscribe to the free newsletter from Equine Science Update. (http://www.equinescienceupdate.co.uk)

Dog Training Collars And Harnesses Making The Proper Selection Is Essential To Training Success

Writen by Armen Ghazarians

Dog training is an art, and like any artist you must pick your tools carefully in order to properly train your dog. Each dog is different, and thus you must be able to decide which collar is most appropriate for your dog based on its temperament, personality, and strength. Below, you will find a description of all the major varieties of dog training collars that you might come across when deciding to purchase one for you pooch.

The metal choke collar is perhaps the most popular and widely used collar in the dog training world. It should be used in training larger, stronger dogs that tend to take YOU for a walk.

The metal toggle choke collar is basically the same as you regular choke collar with the major difference being that you can correct you dog easily by using the toggle while your dog is off-leash.

The pinch collar should be used RARELY and only in situations where the choke collar is ineffective in controlling your dog (i.e. in situations where your dog is very strong, where its highly aggressive, and when it repeatedly lunges at other dogs and people).

The fur saver choke collar is designed to control the dog without leaving chain marks around the dogs' neck or getting fur caught in the chain which sometimes occurs when using an ordinary metal choke collar. It is mainly used when showing dogs and NOT in training them because the dogs don't tend to respond to them in training and they don't give the quick jerk needed for proper correction.

The nylon choke collar is best used in small dogs and puppies up to 3 months, because they tend to be more gentle and they tend to get young puppies used to wearing a collar.

The gentle head leader is best used on dogs that are more shy and easily corrected (i.e. dogs that respond quickly to your commands and dogs that tend to cringe upon your correction).

The electronic collar is mainly used for two reasons: first its used on field dogs (i.e. in bird hunting) and second it is used as a means of training the "out" command to a protection dog in its bite training phase.

The tracking harness is used for exactly what its name suggests: for tracking game, suspects, lost individuals, or competition articles.

And finally, the seeing eye dog harness is designed so that the dogs' owner can hang on to the lead while the dog guides her to her destination. Unlike other leads, this lead is designed so that the dog can pull its owner forward as it walks instead of gently walking beside her on loose lead.

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice, information, and articles regarding many aspects of professional dog training for all those who are not professional dog trainers themselves. For more articles like this one, visit his website at http://www.newdogtrainingsecrets.com

My Dog Bites What Can I Do

Writen by Michael Royce

Ok, so you've got a problem. Your dog is using those shiny, pointy teeth of his for something other than chewing his kibble.

What can you do about it?

Well, as a concerned dog owner you need to figure out the cause…what's triggering this behavior…I mean, if my dog bites, I need to know the reason right?…and so do you...and you need to address that reason as well as the behavior itself…otherwise, you won't change it.

First, let's look at some of the usual reasons.

Fido may be nipping because he's afraid of something. If you acquired an adult dog, maybe he was abused and now fears anything on two legs. Maybe he fears his new surroundings. In any case, you're going to need to soothe those fears away.

At first use your voice; just talk to him quietly and calmly for a few minutes, several times a day, and from a non-threatening distance. Over time, work your way closer. Then, when he's ready (not you), use your touch. Pet him gently while you're talking. You'll be making deposits into his "trust bank" and, when the balance is high enough, you'll start to see a change.

Maybe your dog bites when he gets too excited. If you play rough with him for too long, you'll likely over-stimulate him. Then he might lose his "doggy cool" and take a shot at you. Not good, and especially not good if your kids are the ones doing the stimulating.

So learn to stop sooner than later and give your buddy some time to "chill out" before you handle him again. My father, a pretty good amateur handler, used to tell me this over and over when I played rough with our dogs. Then finally, (tired of me not listening), he just let me learn the hard way. I still have a little scar on my right hand to remind me.

Lastly, maybe your dog is biting because he's going through a challenging phase. He might be challenging you or your family members in order to earn a higher position in "the pack." Remember, he thinks everyone in the house has a certain rank and his nature is to challenge that notion every so often. He wants to raise his own rank…he wants to be the "Top Dog."

If this is the case, you need to put him in his place. He needs to know that everyone else (and I do mean everyone) in your family has a higher rank than him.

Start off by ignoring him…don't let anyone give him any attention unless he earns it by obeying a simple command or two first. Later on (days not hours) you can give him more attention, but only when he's not actively seeking it. In this way he'll start to get the idea of who's really in charge.

Another powerful technique to teach your dog his place in your "family pack" is to feed him last. Make sure the entire family has finished eating before you feed Fido. This might sound cruel, but it's not. Out in the wild the "Top Dog" eats first and when he's finished, the rest of the pack eats according to their rank. Your dog will have enough instinctual memory to understand this. And he'll get a strong message.

Oh, and don't let him beg or get excited before you feed him…make him sit or lie quietly for at least a few minutes before he gets his meal.

Now, let's look at how to address the behavior itself.

You want to give your dog a "correction" and to do that you must catch him in the act. If he bites and you wait (even just several seconds) before making your correction, it will do you absolutely no good. Ten seconds later, your dog's brain is already on to his next thing and he won't make the connection between his bite and your correction.

And how do you make the correction you ask?

Well, first, resist the urge to punish him with a smack. He'll get mixed signals from this and you might make things worse.

A better way is to challenge his biting behavior immediately with a loud, long "Nooooo." Or my personal favorite; growl at him (and show some teeth when you do it!). Then chase him away, back to his bed or into a corner.

And then ignore him.

This will let him know that play-time just ended. Don't give him any attention for awhile, and then, make him earn it by obeying a command or two.

This approach can have a very positive effect on a lot of biting behavior. But remember, Rome wasn't built in a day and the same goes for your relationship with your pouch. You'll need to use patience because you may need to repeat these techniques for days or even weeks before you see the results you want.

I hope this helps a bit and that "my dog bites" soon becomes "my dog used to bite"…thanks for reading.

Michael Royce is an amateur dog trainer who has lived with, trained, (and been trained by) more than a dozen dogs in the last 25 years. He is a regular contributor to several websites including The-Dog-Zone.net.

Shih Tzu Dogs Social Behavior

Writen by Connie Limon

Dogs in general, under free-ranging conditions, will live in mixed-sex, mixed-age social groups. Social ranking is determined by age, although sex may play a role. Females seem to be responsible for leading more often than males. Social ranking is maintained primarily by deference, not by agonistic interaction. Sexual maturity in domestic dogs (including the shih tzu) occurs between 6 to 9 months of age (later for giant breeds), while social maturity begins to develop at 18 to 36 months of age.

At social maturity, a hierarchy depends upon age, sex, size and temperament. In a free-ranging group, dogs that challenge the established social hierarchy may leave and form their own groups if they do not succeed in altering the extant social order. Social maturity is also the time when problems such as aggressions and anxieties develop. Roaming, mounting, urine marking, and intrasexual fighting are caused by the sex hormones, particularly testosterone. These problems can often be prevented or greatly reduced by neutering, especially in males, in households with several pets, males and females, or a household with all males.

Between 3 and 8 weeks of age, dogs tend to focus on other dogs (if available) for their social stimuli. Between 5 and 12 weeks of age they seem to start to focus more on people if people are available. Dogs are most receptive to learning about how to deal with new or different environments until about 16 to 20 weeks of age. This is not to say an older dog would never adjust to a change in environment. It is just to say the adjustment is easier before this age. With time and patience any dog of any age will adjust to change just as people do.

It is not critical to switch the focus of exposure either to other animals or to people at any one specific period. Given the adequate opportunity, puppies will learn about the social and physical environments when they are ready. Trying to introduce them to a specific situation is not critical to producing a well-socialized puppy or adult dog. Of great importance is to avoid extremely fearful stimuli.

Dogs kept exclusively in cages and kenneled and not exposed to people at all after 14 weeks of age may have severely undeveloped social skills. If you are purchasing an older dog from a private breeder, this problem is not likely to surface. The type of older dog I am talking about here would be one that was raised exclusively in kennels with cage after cage and perhaps 3 or 4 or maybe more dogs sharing the same cage. Maybe their only contact with people would be the short presence of someone passing by with water or food. Usually dogs that are raised by individuals in private circumstances have adequate and quality contact with people.

Regardless of the age of a puppy or dog, that life needs to be shown a daily caring atmosphere from their human caretakers to be able to provide them with the ability to adjust readily and easily in new homes or environments. Without human interaction and caring, the dog may experience social problems and behavior problems that otherwise would have not surfaced.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellnes for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Weekly updates of available puppies. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Dont Like Trimming Your Dogs Nails Youre Not Alone

Writen by Brigitte Smith

Giving your dog a bath - no problem. Probably cleaning your dog's teeth wouldn't be an issue. But trimming doggie's nails, no way! Ok, listen up. You can do this. It's not nearly as difficult or frightening as it seems.

Nail trimming in dogs can be done very easily if you know how. It is a good idea to watch someone else (vet, groomer or friend) who is experienced in nail trimming show you first. Some dogs don't need to have their nails trimmed. Many will naturally wear the nails down or the dried ends of the nails will simply flake away without you even knowing. But some breeds, especially Basset Hounds and Dachshunds will likely need your help in keeping the toe nails reasonably short. As much as you'll never want to, you might as well just count on cutting a nail too short on occasion. It just happens sometimes, even with experienced groomers. The nail will bleed if you cut it too short, so just be prepared for that.

Get a good nail trimmer. Ask your vet or the clerk in the pet store which kind they recommend. Place the main part of the trimmer in the palm of your hand and the moveable part is controlled by your fingers. You want to be able to see the small cutting blade that slides when you squeeze the handle.

Make sure you're not cutting from the top downward; but rather from underneath. Slide the opening over the end of the nail while staying in the whitish part of the nail. The pink area of the nail is the live part and has blood vessels throughout. Hopefully you'll be able to see where the pink part starts.

If your pooch has dark nails you won't be able to see any pink to know where the live part of the nail starts. Just do a little bit at a time with the dark nails. Check the end of the nail. The dead area usually is whitish and as you cut deeper into the end of the nail you will begin to see a dark area. That dark area is where the live part starts.

When you are ready to cut, and you are sure you aren't at the live, pink part of the nail make a smooth, quick squeeze on the handle while holding the trimmer steady. Don't try to "pop" the end of the nail off; it will fall away on its own. You can file the edges or just let the dog wear the nail smooth. Taking your dog for a walk on the sidewalk or street can help them file down.

Remember that at some point you will cut too short. When this happens, place a tiny piece of tissue paper tightly against the end of the nail and hold it for a few minutes. Better yet, have some cornstarch or flour available and put a small amount against the bleeding end of the nail, hold it there with your finger. This works right away. Or you can do nothing and the bleeding should stop in about five minutes. If it continues to bleed much more than that, give your vet a call.

You can do this. Play with your canine's feet first to get them used to the idea. If you do it once a week, it won't seem like such a tragic event. If you can only do one paw a day, that's ok too. Man's best friend needs you to do it for him. Relax and enjoy your dog!

(c) 2005 - All Rights Reserved

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural dog health and training for dogs. - FREE Dog Health Report - to request yours, go to: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com

Dog grooming and health information: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/SkinAndCoat

Llama Information

Writen by Michael Russell

Although it might seem strange, llamas actually make great pets. They have sweet, gentle personalities and are usually very affectionate with their owners. You can even train them to do certain things!

Llamas originated from the plains of North America. They have been around for about 40 million years! They are now found in South America because they migrated there 3 million years ago. Llamas started to be domesticated about 5,000 years ago by Andean tribes. They are actually one of the oldest domesticated animals around today! They started being kept in the United States in the 1800s.

The llama is a very strong animal. They can carry 25 to 30 percent of their own body weight for up to eight miles! They measure up to six feet tall and weigh up to 450 pounds. They also come in uncountable numbers of colors and their hair has different fiber textures.

Llamas can be really good guards for your house because they will spit at people if they frighten them. Spitting is used when they are threatened or to establish dominance at feeding time. However, if you spend a lot of time with your llamas and care for them very well, they probably will never spit.

Llamas are very smart and you can even train them to do things like carry a pack, come when you call them, or wear a bridle. They are also very hardy animals that don't tend to get diseases. For their protection, you need to provide them with a shelter. If you live in a warm climate, a three-sided shelter will work fine, but in colder environments, they will need a barn. If it is hot where you live, then you will need to provide shade trees and a cool gravel ground.

The same plants that are poisonous to cattle, horses and sheep, are also poisonous to llamas. Be sure your pasture is okay before you let your llamas graze. You will also need to supplement their diet with grain. Some llamas don't graze at all so if this happens feed them timothy hay or grass. Do not feed your llamas alfalfa or oats because they can cause many problems with their bones, reproduction, or digestion.

Llamas do need to be groomed. Use a very gentle brush and be extremely delicate with them or you could irritate their skin. Some people bathe the llama before brushing and use a conditioner to remove tangles. If your llama's hair becomes matted, it might be easier to just shear them. You will also need to trim their toenails. If you don't want to trim the toenails, you can put down rough gravel or concrete by their water. This will wear down the toenails.

Llamas are very social animals so you need to get at least two of them so they can keep each other company. They will enjoy being together and will even "talk" to each other. Males and females don't do well being housed together though. They should only be kept together at breeding time.

As you can see, llamas have been around for a long time. Many people have kept this animal. Today it is most commonly used as a guard, a companion, a fiber producer, a show animal, or a light pack worker. They are very interesting creatures.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Leaving Pets At Home 16 Tips For Preparing For Pet Care While You Travel

Writen by Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

The height of summer travel is upon us and whether you're heading for a trip to the beach or a wild and wonderful adventure down some rapids, chances are you're not taking your pets. (Although, if you do want to take them, write me and I'll send you a copy of my column from last September on tips and hints for traveling with your pet).

When you're leaving your pets in the care of another there are basic "rules" you both should follow:

1. Reserve your time. You'll note that many of your neighbors and colleagues travel the same time of year that you do. If you're hoping your neighbor will watch your cat while you head out of town, confirm that he'll be in town! Professional companies fill up quickly during busy seasons so you're wise to reserve your spot for pet-care as soon as you reserve your airfare.

2. Be specific. It's important that you and your pet-care provider are on the same page. When you say "One scoop of dry in the morning and the evening" make sure your sitter knows which scoop you're talking about. It's also a good idea to ensure that the person staying with your five cats "does" litter boxes, otherwise you're bound to have a huge mess (and possibly strained relationship) when you get home. Other items to specify include: where to dispose of dirty litter, cage liners or doody-bags, how many and what kinds of treats can be distributed, how to use the electronic cat watering machine, the location and instructions for the can opener, which items your bird likes to get into but will do them harm (zippers come to mind), and most importantly what time each day you'd like your visits to occur.

3. Determine liability. No one wants to think about bad things happening, but sometimes they do. Determine now who is liable if your dog bites the neighbor's child while on a romp in the yard? Or who will pay for the vet bill if your kitty hurts herself while you're away? There are many different scenarios here, so think them through and discuss your options with your insurance agent before assuming you're "covered."

4. Let your sitter know if anyone else is expected in your home during your absence. If your housekeeper comes every Friday, let the sitter know. If you've hired an electrician to come in and rewire, again, let the sitter know. Also, ensure that you and your sitter are clear on liability if the electrician unwittingly lets the cat out the front door while he's unloading his truck.

5. Do you want updates? Let your sitter know how and when you'd like to be updated on your pets' activities and behavior during your absence. However, be sure your sitter has a number or a way to reach you no matter where you are, in case of an emergency.

6. Leave plenty of food, toys, litter and other supplies. Most folks keep their dry food in special containers – meaning if its running low, the sitter may not be able to find the original bag to determine what brand of food your pet 's been eating. It's a little embarrassing to carry a piece of kibble into a pet supply shop and ask the clerk, "Do you know what kind of food this is?"

7. Provide the name and contact information of a neighbor who has a key to your home. Emergencies happen, and if your sitter is incapacitated for any reason, they'll want the name of someone who can get to your pets. This is less likely to happen with larger pet-care companies who have a team of sitters who can provide back-up.

8. Keys. Before handing over the spare set to your sitter, test them (the keys, but let the sitter test the keys too.) Also, don't leave your keys on your property in hidden places for your sitter. This is a huge liability should some criminal see them leaving the key in your hiding spot – what if some less than stellar person watches your sitter "hide" the key and decides to help himself to your possessions?

9. Re-confirm your plans. Make sure you call and confirm your reservation with your pet-sitter at least two days prior to your departure.

10. Agree on a fee. Make sure you and your sitter agree on a fee for the service provided before your departure, this way no one will have bad feelings or unrealistic expectations upon your return.

11. Block off areas of your home to prevent unwanted access. It's okay to close bedroom doors, or put up baby gates to keep your pets from heading into "unprotected territory." Because no matter how well trained your furry kids are when you're home, they are going straight for the comfiest couch while you're gone. To save angst and frustration, block off areas that are forbidden, and make sure your sitter is aware of the "house rules."

12. Be honest about your pets' personalities. The person caring for your pets must have a realistic understanding of your pets' personality. If your dog is a big barker, make sure you note that, same thing if your cat doesn't like to be petted. Set your sitter up to succeed and you'll be pleased with the results.

13. Close off "doggy doors". While you may be happy to have your pets roam in and out throughout the day while you're home, your pets' safety is in jeopardy if you leave that doggy door accessible while you're gone. Your dog or cat is used to your routine and knows what to expect when he comes in and out. He's likely worked out a routine around yours. However, when you're gone, his routine is thrown for the loop. He can become bored and is more likely to pick fights through the fence, or to dig out to follow a scent, a person or an intriguing sight. Both you and your pet sitter want your pets to be at home and healthy when you return from your trip, so keep that doggy door locked and help achieve that goal.

14. Make it easy to access your home. We've already discussed keys, but make sure the outdoor lighting works so your sitter can enter your home safely at night and ensure that the walkways and entry ways are clear of debris and clutter.

15. Write down the extras. If you expect that your sitter will bring in the mail and paper and take out the trash, say so. Your sitter is concerned with the health and well-being of your pets and may not think to water your plants unless you ask. Make sure you specify what extra tasks you'd like your sitter to complete and then write them down so you are both in agreement.

16. Call when you get home. Your sitter is concerned about the welfare of your pets and most will continue to come and visit even after your scheduled return home, unless you call and let them know you've returned safely.

Following these sixteen steps will ensure that both you and your pet have a relaxing vacation!

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of peggiespets.com and the founder of petcareuniversity.com. She's also the "Pets in the City" Columnist for the Del Ray Sun and has been a guest expert on "This Week in Small Business" on Chamber of Commerce Radio. Her company has been recognized as "Best of the Best" in the DC metro region by The Washingtonian. To get all the tips and hints you want to keep up with your pets, subscribe to The Care of Pets e-zine at http://www.peggiespets.com today.

Alaskan Malamute The Nordic Sled Dog

Writen by Evan Richer

The Alaskan Malamute is a medium-large to large dog that weighs between 70-95 pounds and measures up to 25". They are best known as sled dogs and are used to hard work. They ideal for cold climates or homes that will keep them cool and hydrated in hot summers. The Alaskan Malamute has a thick, coarse outer coat and wooly, dense undercoat. They are dressed for cold weather. If you own an Alaskan Malamute and live in a warmer climate, you need to make sure that they have a place to get out of the sun and plenty of water.

They come in a variety of colors including solid white, shadings of light to medium gray, black, sable, and red. In animals with shadings, parts of legs, feet, the underbody, and part of face markings are predominantly white. The AKC does not recognize any other solid colors than white.

Alaskan Malamutes are independent, friendly and loyal. They are more active as puppies and tend to mellow when they get older. They are chewers, diggers and explorers. If you don't want it played with, than put it away. When your Alaskan Malamute is outside, make sure that they can't dig out of the yard or jump over they fence. They are not good apartment, small home or city dogs. They love to be outside and need plenty of room to play. Because they are extremely playful as puppies, they would be better for older children until they become calmer. They work best with other animals and pets when they are socialized at a young age. They can be aggressive towards other dogs and can consider small animals prey. This is an ideal dog for a family home that allows plenty of outdoor time to play and explore

The breed dates back over 2000 years and is a native of Alaska. They were originally used as sled dogs by the Alaskan Malamute Eskimo tribe. In addition to a companion dog, the Alaskan Malamutes are still used as sled dogs for racing, exploration and families living in arctic regions.

As hardworking sled dogs, they are important household pets for families living in cold, snow covered areas and imperative to their way of life. If you are looking for an independent but loving companion, the Alaskan Malamute is a perfect dog for you.

Learn more about dogs and dog care at Dear Doggy. You can also visit our Alaskan Malamute page in the dog breeds section of our website for more information.

Kitty Tricks

Writen by Kim-Marie Ward

Cats don't do tricks, right? At least, that's the reputation they've garnered, but it isn't true. Cats can and are trained. Most animals in movies and commercials have been trained, and that includes the feline stars in your favorite cat food commercials. They can come when called, sit, stay and do all the same things dogs are trained to do, but the way you go about it is a little different.

Dogs are best trained with treats and lots of praise. Cats are trained with treats, some praise (though not the same gushing praise you'd give a dog) and the best way of all is to make the "trick" a natural part of the cat's typical day. The last is the most effective. I've also found that older kittens are easier to train than young kittens, and even old cats can learn new tricks rather quickly.

For simple parlor tricks, like sit, stay, and sit-up, the treat method works best. For these actions, give the command, then with happy praise when they succeed, give them a treat and a little rub behind the ears. Obviously, these will be the easiest tricks to teach. Don't make your moving cat sit, but wait until she is sitting already. Have the treat ready, give the command, "sit," then immediately show the cat the treat, give it to her while she's still in position, and praise her for sitting. If you do this consistently for a few days, then you will be able to give the command and the cat will obey you even if she had been on her way elsewhere.

Once you've established "sit," move on to "stay" and do essentially the same thing you did – approach the cat and give her the treat. You should be able to go further and further away each time you give the command. If the cat gets up to follow you, give the sit command, then say "stay" and again, approach the cat to give her the treat.

For teaching your cat to sit-up, use the treat as the incentive by holding it above your cat's heads, high enough that she can almost reach it, but not so high she'd have to jump for it.

You can teach your cat to indicate yes or no with nodding or moving their head side to side by moving the treat in the direction that matches the command. Up and down for yes, side to side for no. This one takes a little longer to move to other situations outside of treats but once your cat makes the connection, and if you reinforce it with using the motions yourself as much as possible, they will use the head movements to communicate with you.

For example, once the yes and no are associated you can ask your cat if she'd like to play with a particular toy. Ask, "yes?" as you move your head up and down. Then put the toy away and say "no," while shaking your head. After a few weeks, you can ask your cat if he'd like to play and if he nods, then you can get a toy out. If he shakes his head, don't get the toy out.

Other "tricks" you can teach your cat are most easily done by making them part of a daily routine. If you always say to your cat immediately before feeding time, "I bet you're hungry" then soon, you'll be able to simply say that phrase and your darling will be meowing on her way out to the kitchen.

I once taught my cat to give kisses and hugs. Every morning when I left for work, I'd say "I'm leaving now. Come give me a kiss." I'd pick her up and kiss her, and then set her back down on the ground and wave goodbye. Every evening when I came home, I'd call out "I'm home! Can I have a hug?" I'd go pick up my cat, give her a gentle squeeze, kiss the top of her head and set her down.

In only two weeks, she was trained. I didn't even need to say the whole phrase. I could say, "I'm leaving now," and she'd run out from wherever she was resting or playing, jump into my arms and set her nose to my lips, then let me set her down. When I got home, I'd call out, "I'm home," and again, she'd come running, jump into my arms and let me give her a little squeeze. It got to the point where I could be sitting on the sofa, relaxing after work and I could look over at her and say, "give me a kiss." She'd run over, set her nose to my lips, then either go off and do whatever it was she wanted to do, or she'd lay on my lap and let me pet her.

As long as you don't force your cat, but make her training feel natural to her, she can and will learn to do a lot of so-called "tricks," though to her, they'll just be a normal part of daily life.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums. Kim-Marie is a book editor and writer; stop by and visit her portfolio at Kim-Marie on Writing.Com.

How Do I Stop My Dog From Barking 4 Top Tips

Writen by Hugh Campbell

My West Highland White Terrier used to be a nightmare in the mornings. As soon as he would hear the newspaper come through the letterbox, he would rush downstairs, growling and barking like crazy. And this would be a good hour before I wished to get up. If you find yourself in a similar situation and scream "How do I stop my dog from barking?!", then let me be of assistance.

Let us first establish why dogs bark the way they do. Barking is their verbal communication, and in the same way that our tones of voice can reflect our moods, barking can be responsible for several social purposes. For example, it can be a way to warn people, a way to greet people, and just plain old excitement. You cannot quell this natural instinct, but you can control it to a large extent.

1. A training collar

You can purchase a training collar for your dog. Each of these collars give off a small vibration, activated by remote control, to stir the dog's attention. This is a neat way of training your dog through Pavlovian methods, and you don't have to move a muscle. These collars typically retail for around $100, but can be relatively cheap for what the results they produce.

2. Use verbal commands

Dogs can usually be trained the traditional way, with a stern verbal command relaying whether an action is correct or incorrect. By tapping certain parts of their body in conjunction with the correct tone and language, repetition can result in modified behaviour. This is certainly a cheaper and more natural option.

3. Bribe the mutt!

You can stop the noise immediately by giving the dog a treat or a toy to play with. Obviously if the canine's mouth is full, they will be incapable of barking at the same time. Although this is a bit of a quick fix method, it can be particularly useful at a delicate time of the day, such as night-time. You can of course play with your dog afterwards.

Although there are increasingly technological methods to training your dog, the more natural methods remain time-tested and arguably more ethical. Learning to train your dog helps you develop a valuable skill, as well as the respect -- rather than the fear -- of your pet. Persistence and repetition in the short term will reap great rewards in the long-term.

Hugh Campbell runs the Hottest Picks Online website which provides recommended resources on how to successfully train your dog (http://www.hottestpicksonline.com/TrainYourDog.html) Pooch training

My Fathers Daughter

Writen by Vaughn Pascal

My dad was an avid animal lover. We grew up with all kinds of animals but especially dogs. That is one of the main things I got from my dad. He taught me a lot about the care and consideration it takes in owning an animal and the responsibility involved in doing it right. He never looked at them as simply pets but an extension of family that needed to be treated as such. So needless to say I had tons of animals.

I always felt this remarkable bond with them and see my own son following the steps that his mom and his grandpa took in regards to that. I could see my son being a Veterinarian which is what I wanted to be at his age, maybe a K9 handler which we have discussed. He seems to follow what road I take and is so much like me it is scary. He could and would be a great defender of animal rights simply because he chooses to be that now. He will stand up to a grown man and stand his ground if he thinks that person is abusing an animal. He is, to a point, fanatical about it and he is only 7 yrs old.

I think back to my own childhood and how I reacted to such things in my day, and I was exactly the same, and I came from a long line of relatives who believed that an animal had its place and it wasn't a family member in the least and I could go on about the abusive situations I have seen in my lifetime. That animals be put in and my reactions and responses to such, but it would take 10 pages or more to do so. When Dakota comes to me and states an act he took as repulsive to animals, he becomes agitated and I allow him to vent. I also allow him to stand his ground and a know most people accept what he says with shame in their eyes and carry on. He has the tenacity of a pitbull when it comer to the animal rights issues and I will never deter him in any way.

It has been awhile since I have personally allowed myself to become close to anyone, individual, animal since the loss of Natasha my Mini Schnauzer, See, 'Man's Best Friend', good article. Anyways making the decision to have her put to sleep was terribly troubling to my soul and to this day I still struggle with that decision, it also takes me back to years ago as a child and having to decide, by the hands of an abusive uncle, which out of a litter of puppies and kittens should live and die, the agony of having to do this as an adult brought back to many terrifying and hurtful memories that it has caused me to become somewhat numb in regards to having something depend on and trust me totally for their lives, comfort, and health. I am just not up to that responsibility as of yet, and I am smart enough to realize that in me. I have tried but when I become to attached I send the adopted animal to a friend's and I have done that at least twice now, and feel the need to heal before I do it again.

My son still has his animals and I am so thankful for that. Yes, I do have a cat which seems to have permanently established a role in this family, why and how I am not 100 % sure on that, but I do know I don't see me without her and I guess maybe that is a start. I was always very close in heart to dogs though. I preferred them and always saw myself with one, but not at this time. I love horses too and nothing seems to free me more than riding atop a horse with no control over where it goes. I love that feeling, there is nothing like it and it sets me free. My dad always brought us home different pets, rabbits, chicks, we even had two horses and he loved them dearly, and he taught me so much about their care and what they give you in return. I can look into the eyes of animals and tell you almost what it is they are thinking and feeling and I know Dakota does the same. My little Kokopelli.

It is remarkable to see the light in the eyes, if different, animals both tame and wild and it teaches you to know the trust that they can give. Do animals have souls, I believe so. I do believe that. I think to kill an animal for food may be a necessity for some, but I could never, ever do it but I grew up around it, people that torture and kill animals for pleasure are sick and sadistic and as close to evil as you can get without hurting a human and that is where I stand on that.

Just ask people who have nothing but animals as friends, a teenager who feels so isolated and alone that the only one thing that knows their secrets and hurts is that of their dog or cat, maybe even a horse or bird. Or an elderly person whom has lost a spouse and has only the affections of a pet to keep them company. Or a couple whom has lost a baby and has that new puppy to kind of take away a moment of emptiness. They give so much unselfishly and with nothing in return.

It amazes me the loyalty and devotion so many animals give to those that love them and even those who don't. If I were an animal I would be a wolf. I would be a wolf because of the family life it leads with friends and family surrounding it daily, hunting for food together, to live a long life with one single mate. To have that social network and that support.

I will have to ask Dakota what he would be. I am almost positive he would say a bear, but I really am not sure as to the reasons , it may have some thing to do with strength and honor. Yes, he knows those words. Being a tough guy is his thing! Having honor in what you do, is his thing. He knows those words and he uses them. He also knows what responsibility means and how to have compassion for all things of this world.

We live in a close community with all types of animals, the earth sustains us all, and we were meant to live freely amongst each other and we need to care for all things on the earth as we were meant to be guardians over all. Just remember that, and take care of nature and all that inhabits the world, how lonely we would be without it, thanks!

Vaughn Pascal

To Dakota: I love you! To God and Jesus: Thank you for everything we have..

Goldfish Feeding Tips

Writen by Dane Stanton

What's the best food for your Goldfish?

Goldfish need food that is a combination of carbohydrates and vitamins to help them grow and fight disease. They particularly need vitamin A to make their colors look bright. They do need protein but just about 12% so that they can build muscle. In the natural habitat, Goldfish mainly feed on plants. They eat a fiber diet that includes algae, grasses and aquatic plants in the natural environment. Thankfully you do not have to sweat much to provide them with the equivalent nutritional needs because you can get it off the shelf! These processed food available at pet stores include:

Flake food

This is one of the commonly available goldfish foods, especially made for them and it consists of brine shrimp. It is easily eaten by Goldfish and helps in avoiding a particularly fatal sickness called the Air Bladder Disease.

Pellet food

This is also flake food with brine shrimp but it's packaged as a pellet. The only problem with pellets is that it sometimes swells in the goldfish's stomach and makes it lose its balance. This is what is the Air Bladder disease.

Frozen food

This includes live food that is frozen. You have an array to choose from as in frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms or mosquito larvae. This will come frozen in slabs from which you have to break off bit-by-bit and hand-feed your goldfish. You can also opt for Freeze-dried foods, which includes Krill, Pacific plankton, brine shrimp and bloodworms.

Homemade food

If you really want to make the food for your goldfish and you have the time you can do so. You will find that their favorites are lettuce and peas. Take any type of lettuce, which would be easy for the goldfish to chew on and digest. Wash and rinse the lettuce in warm water and just clip it inside the tank with a lettuce clip. Do not cook the lettuce. As for the peas, cook them till they are soft and refrigerate them. At feeding time, peel off the skin and mash a pea between your fingers and drop it in the tank. Do make sure the peas are soft or you could end up bloating your goldfish. Goldfish enjoy plant food and that's why you can see them happily nibbling away at Anacharis and Romaine lettuce or pieces of cucumber and zucchini which you should make sure to clip on to the tank with a suction cup clip

Live foods

The live foods that goldfish can safely eat include Daphnia, Brine Shrimp, Tubiflex worms, Meal worms, Wax worms and Blood worms.

Special treat for your goldfish You can make a special "gel food" for your goldfish that's quite easy to do. This can be given to the goldfish along with the main staple as a once-in-a-while treat. Here's what you need will need: a packet of unflavored gelatin; an empty ice cube tray and a 2.5 oz jar of baby food in a vegetable flavor such as carrots, peas or green beans.

* Take ¼ cup cold water in a small saucepan and pour the contents of the packet of gelatin in the water and stir over low heat until the gelatin dissolves.

* Add ¾ cup water, stirring till it's well blended.

* Add the baby food and stir thoroughly.

* Now pour the mixture into an ice cube tray and let it cool for about half an hour.

* Refrigerate the mixture for a few hours till it solidifies.

When it's feeding time just pop out a cube, cut it into small strips and feed it to your goldfish! One tray is more than enough for two 4- to 5-inch goldfish for a week. Make sure you dump the leftovers after a week, as it's good to give them fresh stuff.

Whatever it is, you will find that your goldfish are not fussy eaters. They have a wide array of food to choose from and they can eat quite a lot, which you would need to regulate. You will need to remember that they are temperate fish that do not need a diet high in protein. Goldfish are classified as coldwater fish and, as a rule; do not need to eat a diet that is high in protein. What they need is a carbohydrate-rich diet with the adequate vitamins.

That is why the best option for Goldfish are the floating pellets or the flakes which are specially made for Goldfish and have all the necessary nutrients. Ask your goldfish dealer as well as other owners and decide on what is best for the goldfish.

Dane Stanton - www.goldfish-secrets.com

Dane Stanton is an expert on goldfish health care. To visit his website visit http://www.goldfish-secrets.com for more information on Goldfish care and other aquarium related topics. *Recommended*

Amazing Insights Of A Horse Training Expert From The Late 1800s

Writen by Andy Curry

Could a horse trainer, born about 154 years ago, teach us anything new today? Would the methods be old hat or would they be useful?

The answer is a resounding Yes!, they are enormously useful.

The horse training expert referred to is named Jesse Beery. Beery was a world famous horse trainer from the late 1800's who possessed amazing ability with horses.

Fortunately, Beery's secrets remain after all these years. His information can be found in his book he wrote in the late 1800's. However, very few copies of his book exist. It is virtually impossible to find an original - much less one that is readable.

Here is a partial reading from the first chapter of Beery's book:

Fear is the principal motive which causes the colt to resist training. It is natural for him to kick against an unknown object at his heels, to pull his head out of the halter as from a trap, and if of a bad disposition, to strike and bite if he does not thoroughly understand you.

His fear is governed by his sense of touch, sight and hearing; and it is through these senses we obtain a mastery, and at the same time remove his fears of the halter, the robe, the harness and the wagon. These are the fixed laws which govern the actions of all horses, and the training of a colt is merely teaching him not to fear the working apparatus, but to respect his master, and to obey his commands as soon as he has learned their meaning.

Each one of these senses must be educated before the colt is trained. A colt's education may be compared with that of a child to a great extent. A horse's reasoning powers are limited to his past experience. So we must reason with him by acts alone. Hence the importance of beginning every step with the colt right; for by our acts he learns.

The successful school-master aims first to teach the child to have confidence in him. Hence the first lesson we give the colt is simply to teach it to have confidence in us and that we are its best friend and don't intend to hurt it.

The book continues with the first lesson a colt is to have which is

"How to gain a colt's confidence."

Fortunately, horse trainer Andy Curry discovered a legible copy and made it available for horse owners who want to learn this incredible information.

Andy Curry encourages responsible horse owners to check into Jesse Beery's book and learn what it has to teach.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Dog Training 8 Correction Mistakes Dog Owners Make

Writen by Marilyn Burnham

Just like no dog is perfect, neither are pet owners. A lot of dog behavior problems go right back to poor dog owner training. Here are some of the most common mistakes dog owners make that lead to bad dog behavior:

1. Inconsistent training. Just like with your typical human two-year-old, you've must be consistent when training your dog. Letting Max get away with bad behavior even some of the time will lead to problems down the road.

2. Reinforcing bad behavior. A classic poorly trained dog owner behavior. Even the best of us don't realize when we've done it. Here's the classic example: Buttons scratches the door to be let in. You just painted the door and don't want Buttons ruining the new paint, so you let him in immediately. Guess what Buttons just learned? If he scratches the door, you'll let him in immediately! Don't let your dog outsmart you! You may just have to put up with a few scratch marks on the door until Buttons gets the message. Never let your dog in the house when he scratches on the door or barks.

3. Using the dog's name when correcting him. It's important not to make "no" sound like a part of your puppy's name: Buster No! Just say the word, in a low, growling voice. Don't use "no" when your dog isn't doing the unwanted behavior but is considering it. Try "don't," again, using a low, growling, and firm voice.

4. Leaving the dog alone too much. The pounds are full of young dogs that somebody wanted when they were puppies, but because the owners worked 12-hour days every day, the dog now has behavior problems. Spend time with your dog every day.

5. Crating a dog too long. Not only is this bad for your dog's behavior, keeping him in a crate for hours and hours day after day can affect his growth and his muscle tone.

6. Chaining a dog. If you don't have a secure fence, then keep your dog in the house crated. Chaining a dog is dangerous and cruel.

7. Yelling. Your dog will not respond to yelling. Everyone loses their temper from time to time, but constantly yelling at your dog loses its effect quickly - just like it does on your spouse or your children.

8. Hitting. Swatting your dog with newspaper or hitting him just teaches him that aggression gets the leader of the pack what he wants. Don't hit your dog. It sets a bad example.

Some dogs, especially some toy breeds or hounds, may still have trouble. This is especially true of small dogs. Remember, you are training your pet to not leave waste in his den, and to a small dog your home may be too big to seem den-like.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp' The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

Your Cat Or Kitten Will Love You More When You Follow This Guide To Feline Feeding

Writen by Niall Kennedy

You can take the easy option and throw some discount cat feed into a bowl for your feline friend, but will she remain your friend for long if you don't give a bit more thought into what you feed her? Here is some advice that will have her purring with delight at feeding time, and keep her healthy at the same time.

In order to keep your cat or kitten healthy, you need to choose quality foods that will provide him with nutrients he needs. But, what are they? You can't just give your cat any type of food that is available. There are several things you should do to improve your cat's nutrition.

Kitten Food

During the first few weeks, the food will come from mom cat. But, when he begins to reach the age of four to six weeks, he needs to supplement his foods with canned kitten food or you can provide him with dry cat food that is softened with water. At eight weeks, he should be weaned from the mother and eating kitten food solely. The breeder at this point can allow him to be adopted and should provide you with some of the food that he is eating. If you plan to switch brands, you can do so but make sure that you mix the food together until he is used to it.

Growing kittens will eat a good amount of food. They are growing very fast and need it. They will eat more than once a day. They are likely to eat up to four smaller meals until they are six months old. You should give him plenty of clean water as well. Remember, kittens have smaller stomachs and need smaller amounts but use a lot of energy nonetheless.

As Your Kitten Gets Older

At six months, the cat will begin to taper off in growing. He will likely be less active as well. This means you can cut back to feeding him to two or three meals a day. You should not change from kitten food to adult food since he is still growing.

At a year, you can provide him with adult food. Adult cats will eat when they are hungry so you can simply leave a dish filled with dry food for him. But, if he overeats and becomes overweight, he will need to be limited to eating twice a day instead. If you give him canned food, you can still offer dry food as well. Canned food should not be left out all day.

What Kind of Cat Food?

To purchase cat food, you should look for the types that have protein sources in the first few ingredients that are listed. You should make sure that the food is well balanced too. If the cat has problems that are health related look for foods designed to help with these conditions.

Many cats will enjoy both wet and dry food. But, some are finicky about it. If your cat does not seem to like dry cat food, moisten it or provide him with regular check ups at the vet to keep his teeth clean. Providing well balanced food for your cat will allow him to live a healthy, long life.

Best Pet Health Information is a resource that brings you information and news, tips and reviews to ensure you have the correct cat health products to keep your moggy happy. http://www.Best-Pet-Health.info Copyright Best-Pet-Health.info All rights reserved. This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links are included intact.

Can I Put My Pet In My Will

Writen by Pete Glocker

Have you ever wondered what to do with your pet if you suddenly passed away? Who is going to take care of it? What if it gets sick and needs medical attention? Who is going to pay the medical bills? Who is going to pay for routine shots? These are many questions you may ask yourself in thinking about this confusing topic.

Stated in an article on www.animallaw.info, the Uniform Trust Act of 2000 does not allow you to will property to an animal per se, but it allows you to set up a trust for the continuing care of your pet. The Act itself is an example of the increased recognition of animal interests.

As of right now, there are roughly thirty-one states that now recognize pet trusts. These trusts allow for the owner to name a pet as a beneficiary and to name a trustee to take care of the pet.

Make plans for your pet.

According to an article written by Eileen Ambrose of The Baltimore Sun, it is important that people make plans for what will happen to their pet. And whether they end up creating a pet trust, setting money aside in a will for care or use some other means, the issues owners face will be similar. For instance, pet owners need to find a caretaker and someone to manage the money left behind for the pet's benefit. Usually the same person handles both roles. Look for someone who is responsible, capable of handling money and likes animals.

Other suggestions in the article encourage you to:

• Name one or two backups in case the trustee cannot fulfill the job.

• Make sure there is enough money to cover pet expenses.

• Write a care plan, basically a memo detailing the veterinarian's name.

• Include in the care plan the pet's routine, medications, likes and dislikes.

Drafting a Trust

You will want to include specific information in the trust.

• The name and address of a trustee and an alternate trustee.

• The name and address of the caregiver and an alternate caregiver. (It may be beneficial to name the same person as the trustee and the caregiver)

• Detailed information on the identity of your pet. (microchip or papers)

• The standard living and care you wish for your pet.

• A detailed description of the property that will fund the trust.

• Information on how the remainder of the trust should be distributed once your pet dies.

• Instructions on the final disposition of your pet's body.

According to an article by Richard Willing of USA Today, the average amount left to pets is about $25,000. It was also stated in the article that according to a 2000 survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association that Americans own roughly 68 million dogs and 73 million cats. The impulse to protect them after one's demise has always been strong and, for some, overwhelming.

Pete Glocker is employed in the Education and Charitable Services Department at Debt Management Credit Counseling Corp. ("DMCC"), a 501c(3) non-profit charitable organization located in Boca Raton, Florida. Pete graduated from Florida Atlantic University with a BA in Multimedia Journalism and was a web producer Intern for Tribune Interactive products Sun-Sentinel.com and SouthFlorida.com. DMCC provides free financial education, personal budget counseling, and debt management plans to consumers across the United States. Debt management plans offered by DMCC help consumers relieve the stress of excessive debt by reducing credit card interest rates, consolidating and lowering monthly payments, and stopping collection calls and late fees. DMCC financial counselors can be reached for free education materials, budget counseling and debt management plan quotes by calling 800-863-9011 or by visiting http://www.dmcccorp.org Pete Glocker can be reached by email at pete@dmcccorp.org