Everyday Household Items Could Spell Disaster For Your Cat

Writen by Randy Jones

Cats rely on their sense of smell and hearing more so than their eyesight. They cannot be fooled by a mirror. They see their reflection, but their sense of smell and hearing tells them there is no cat there. Cats go places that we wouldn't think of going because their noses tell them these are nice places. Cats have been locked in refrigerators, clothes driers, and washing machines with bad results due to their curiosity and their sense of smell.

Many cleaning products are deadly to cats, such as Lysol and most dishwashing fluids. Room deodorizers sprays settle to the floor, and cats are constantly licking to clean their paws especially if they smell something disagreeable on them. Antifreeze is deadly for cats and dogs and should be cleaned up to washed away if a spill or leak occurs. Any product containing phenol is particularly deadly. The fumes from moth balls can destroy a cats liver cells. Always use cedar in place of moth balls when cats are present.

Plant poisoning is common especially around Christmas with poinsettias and mistletoe at the top of the list. Here is a list of the other toxic plants; dieffenbachia, azaleas, philodendron, ivy, chrysanthemums, rhubarb leaves, iris leaves, daffodil, jonquil, narcissus, poison ivy, privet, oak, mushrooms, oleander, sumac, sweet pea, rosary pea and even uncooked potatoes. Equally dangerous is the water in the Christmas tree stand, the pine smell may invite your cats to drink, but if they do, it could become lethal.

Choking is always a problem, cats tongues do not allow anything to be spit out. Once they start to swallow a string, yarn, or rubber bands, they only swallow more. Some cellophane wraps become sharp and glasslike when they come in contact with the digestive juices of a cats stomach. Many cat toys are dangerous because they have decorations glued on them that can be swallowed when they come off. Do not allow your cat to play with anything that could be swallowed.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed the website http://joncopets.com/ on the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest trendy items for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://joncopets.com/

The Kuvasz

Writen by Michael Russell

The Hungarian Kuvasz has the Turkish word for "protector" as its name and its country of origin is most likely Tibet, yet this breed was used for many centuries in Hungary as a herding dog and flock protector. Herding dogs generally are used to herd cattle or sheep from one spot to another, while flock protectors are strictly used to guard the flocks and fend off predators. The Kuvasz is unusual in that it performs both of these functions admirably and was also used as a boar hunter.

Today the breed is used in both North and South America as a flock guardian. and sometimes more rarely as a family pet. It is a dog that can be quite formidable and is highly prized as a breed that will ward off coyotes and even cougars when it functions as a flock guard. Sometimes the breed is confused with the Great Pyrenees but there are considerable differences. The Great Pyrenees can have some biscuit coloring while the Kuvasz is always white. The Great Pyrenees has double dew claws on the rear feet. The Kuvasz never has dew claws on the rear, let alone double ones. The Great Pyr has a soft deep muzzle almost as deep as it is broad, while the Kuvasz has a longer narrower muzzle. Both dogs perform the function of a flock guardian quite well, but the Great Pyr seems to be a dog that is more able to accept integration into a household as a pet.

The Kuvasz is 28-30 inches tall and can weigh up to 115 pounds. The coat may be slightly wavy and is long and double. The coat is generally flat (does not "stand off" from the body) and is about two to four inches long all over with the exception of the muzzle and the front of the legs. The ears are dropped and slant forwards. The Kuvasz is a handsome dog and has a very strong instinct for protection.

The Kuvasz Club of America advises new owners that the Kuvasz often is "impervious" to pain. This is a typical trait of dogs which are bred for predator attack, especially in the neck and chest, which usually has thicker skin and coat in that area so teeth will not grip easily. The Kuvasz therefore will not pay attention to electric fences and needs to be kept in a tight enclosure. Furthermore this is not a breed that should be allowed to play off leash in dog parks.

As a family member the Kuvasz must be exposed as a young dog to any children that will be part of its family. As it grows it will begin to think of his human family as part of his flock and will be a great watchdog, however care must be taken to introduce this breed to obedience early on because it must learn that the owner is the dominant pack leader or it will take over the position and can be extremely loyal to the extent of being threatening to visitors. If properly trained and socialized, especially to children, the dog will accept the introduction of strangers. It is highly important to socialize any dog to children and strange situations while it is young, taking any dog to obedience classes and exposing it to crowds and urban environments will help the dog to accept new and different situations in any case, but for a Kuvasz that has such strong guardian instincts it is an absolute necessity to provide such early socialization. Kuvasz which are going to be used primarily as country dogs and flock guardians are trained up in a manner which will expose them to the the cattle or sheep which become their flock, often they are turned out with the flock and simply grow up with the animals an outdoors on the farm, where they will then function as nature intended them to.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

6 Common Dog Emergencies

Writen by Steve Austin

Sure, you may be a master of human First Aid. But do you know what to do in a dog health emergency?

Approaching Dog Health Emergencies: Two Steps

In any dog health emergency, stay calm and think. Approach the dog cautiously. The dog may become aggressive because of fear or pain. You can't help the dog if you're hurt yourself.

Dog Emergency 1: Traffic Accident:

If possible, do not to move the dog. Call the nearest Humane Society or ASPCA office. If the animal workers can't or won't come and you must move the dog, slide a blanket under the animal. Lift the animal to safety with the help of another person. Check for a heartbeat and bleeding. Try to stop the excessive loss of blood by holding a clean cloth or pad over the wound and securing it tightly with a makeshift bandage. Take the dog to the nearest vet, calling ahead to prepare them for the emergency.

Dog Healthcare Emergency 2: Burns:

1. Immerse the burned body part in cold running water for as long as possible. 2. If the burn is from a caustic substance, wash it off. 3. Call the vet.

Canine Health Emergency 3: Heat stroke

Warning signs: The dog is overheated and without sufficient air. The dog might be panting, vomiting, frothing at the mouth, or already collapsed. 1. Remove the froth, 2. Place or douse the dog with cold water to lower body temperature. 3. Take the dog immediately to the veterinarian for treatment. Treatment usually consists of more cold water, drugs and observation.

Emergency 4: Dog Poisoning

Warning signs: Look for muscular twitching, vomiting, bleeding, convulsion or collapse. 1. Have someone call the vet. 2. Follow the vet's advice. Different poisoning cases sometimes have to be treated differently. 3. If you cannot reach the vet, try to induce vomiting. Salt and mustard in water usually will do the trick. 4. If you know what the poison is, take some of it with you to the vet's office.

Emergency 5: Dog Choking

Open the dog's mouth carefully and try to see what is causing the problem. It could be anything: a small ball, bone, stick, meat wrapping. Pump the chest by pressing down on the ribs and releasing immediately at 5-second intervals. If this doesn't dislodge the object within a few moments, rush the dog to the nearest animal hospital to have the foreign object removed under anesthetic.

Dog Emergency 6: Drowning

Remove the dog from the water. Try to get the water out of the dog's lungs as soon as possible by pumping the chest as for choking (see above). Take the dog to the vet to be checked out. Hopefully, you will never have to handle any of these emergencies. But if you do, you have the dog health advice that you need.

If you love dogs and puppies, visit I-Love-Dogs.com now! You can get, free dog email, send a free dog postcard, learn about the different dog breeds and so much more!

Dog Health Signs Of Emergency Problems

Writen by Colleen Gray

Our dog's health is important to us. When we suspect our dog is ill, we want to do the right thing. Unfortunately, distinguishing between a minor illness and health problems that need emergency attention is not always easy. It's important to be prepared for and know how to identify serious dog health problems.

Know where to take your dog in an emergency

If your dog falls seriously ill, time wasted locating emergency services can be fatal. Know in advance where to go. Many veterinarians offer 24 hour emergency services. Find out if this includes your vet. If not, find out where the nearest veterinary emergency hospital is located. Keep this information in a convenient place.

So how do you know if you are experiencing an emergency?

Most veterinarians will advise you to not to take a chance but call the nearest emergency veterinary service if you suspect that your dog's health needs immediate attention. Staff will assess the situation and usually advise that you bring your dog in for an examination.

The following information will help you identify and respond appropriately to the most common dog health emergencies.

Severe stomach pain

Signs that your dog is experiencing abdominal pain include an abdomen that is tender to the touch, standing with their back arched, and refusing food. Take your dog to the nearest emergency veterinary service immediately. Abdominal pain can be (and often is) a sign of a serious health problem.

Other signs of abdominal distress include vomiting, whelping, shakiness and breathing difficulties. Your dog may be suffering from gastric torsion. Gastric torsion develops suddenly and rapidly and tends to affect large, heavily-chested dogs more than most. This condition needs immediate attention.

Abdominal distress may also be a sign of bloat, constipation, kidney or liver disease, urinary stones, poisoning, an intestinal obstruction or a simple tummy ache. Err on the side of caution. A visit to the emergency veterinarian is advised to safeguard your dog's health and give you peace of mind.

Control heavy bleeding

A laceration that results in heavy bleeding must be dealt with immediately. Apply direct pressure to the wound with a clean, dry bandage. Bleeding should stop within ten minutes.

With the bleeding controlled get your dog to the vet as quickly as possible. With dogs, there is only a small window of time for stitching a wound.

If the bleeding does has not stopped within twenty minutes, or if your dog is bleeding from the chest take your dog to the emergency clinic immediately.

Breaks and fractures

If your dog has had an accident and possibly broken bones, the first step is to call your regular vet. If they are unable to see your dog soon, take your dog to the emergency clinic. X-rays will determine whether or not your dog has broken bones.

Do not try to clean or straighten the wound. If you have a small dog, use pencils or pens as a splint. For larger dogs, use rolled magazines or newspapers. Place them on either side of the bone, then roll cloth or adhesive tape progressively up the splint material.

While traveling to the vet, touch your pooch's toes every few minutes to be sure circulation is normal. If they get too cold, rewrap the splint material more loosely.

Difficulty with breathing

If your dog develops breathing difficulties, don't hesitate. Take them to the closest emergency hospital immediately. Breathing problems are a sign of several health problems, many of them serious.

Vehicle accidents

When a dog is hit by a car, take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately even if he appears to have come to little harm. They may have suffered internal injuries that need to be identified and taken care of as quickly as possible. Shock can also pose a threat to your dog's health. To prevent shock, wrap your dog in a blanket.

Keep away from your dog's mouth. Dogs in pain may bite, even if they have never bitten you before.

Convulsions

Any degree of seizure is a problem. Call your veterinarian at once. If convulsions last for more than a few minutes, place a blanket over your dog, keep away from his mouth and take him to the nearest emergency service immediately.

Seizures are a sign of serious health problems including epilepsy, metabolic problems, brain tumors, and poisoning. Seizures themselves can be life threatening.

Whenever you are seriously concerned about your dog's health, don't hesitate to seek immediate veterinary advice. You know your dog well enough to know when something is seriously amiss. And you love your dog well enough not to take chances. Remember, veterinarians love animals too, and understand your concern.

Calling emergency services first will give clinic staff an opportunity to assess the situation and, if necessary, ensure that a medical team is prepared for your arrival. For further advice on emergency dog health problems, consult your veterinarian. A good veterinarian will be more than happy to help with any issue concerning your dog's health.

Best Wishes, Colleen

Discover how you can reduce vet fees and keep your dog healthy and happy… http://dogandpuppyhealth.com/guide. Get free dog health and dog training information at http://dogandpuppyhealth.com.

Keep Your Parrots Safe This Holiday Season

Writen by Taylor Knight

It's that time of year again and Christmas will be here before you know it. How time flies! Here is your friendly reminder to help keep your parrots safe as we enter another holiday season. Don't forget to share this with your friends!

A little planning, some supervision, and a few things to watch out for can go a long way toward both you and your bird having a happy holiday. If I have forgotten anything, please let me know and I will build on this article for next year!

Stress
We all know Christmas can be a stressful time for us humans. Our parrots must think we have lost our minds. New people around, strange decorations, etc. Stick to your bird's regular schedule as much as possible, don't forget the lovin' and playtime. Oh, and make sure there is plenty of time for a good night's sleep for both you and your bird.

Decorations
Be careful of Angel Hair, it's spun glass and that just can't be good for anyone that eats it. Tinsel and garland are another big concern, it can cause intestinal obstructions if ingested. I don't know what kinds of decorations you have at your house, but just be aware that they are unfamiliar to your bird and they may or may not panic at the sight of some of them. Many decorations are made of toxic or potentially toxic materials like different plastics, scented pinecones, hidden wires made of who knows what, stuff that is sprayed on so decorations look "fresh" longer. And don't forget the common everyday things lying around that could cause problems such as rubber bands, string, ribbon, tape, tacks, little nails, glue, etc.

Candles and Smelly Stuff aka Fragrances
Candles with lead wicks can be toxic, usually you will find them in cheap imported candles. Burning candles with fragrances is very irritating to your bird's sensitive respiratory system. Those candles with "essential oils" in them that smell great to you are HIGHLY TOXIC WHEN BURNED. Try 100% beeswax candles instead. They are more expensive, but burn five to seven times longer, are not scented and burn cleaner. One other word of caution - burns and wax spills have been known to happen when a wayward bird collides with a candle so ALWAYS watch your candles and your bird, don't leave either one of them without supervision. I have a rule, IF I light a candle it's 100% beeswax and the parrot gang has to be in their cages.

Potpourri, air fresheners, and a host of other smelly spraying things irritate the daylights out of your bird in so many ways. (They also irritate me, so it is not a problem for my birds because I don't use them in my home.) Try and go for something more natural if you feel the need to "scent" your house. Heat up some water in a pan on the stove and throw in a few organic cinnamon sticks, that smells yummy. Oh yes, can't forget this one NO SMOKING AROUND THE BIRDS - PERIOD!

Lights and Electrical Cords
Make sure these are concealed as well as possible so little birdie brains don't get any smart ideas and want to play with them. They could get shocked (as in probably killed) or burned by chewing on them. If they are loose, they could get tangled in them.

Plants
I think most people with parrots know by now that Poinsettias and Holly are dangerous if eaten, but did you know that Philodendron, Ivy and Mistletoe are also. In case you didn't there's is no excuse now. These plants have the potential to cause life threatening problems for your parrot if eaten!

Dressing up Birdie
Not that you would do it, but watch those little ones. They seem to think it's a good idea to stick bows on (ouch) or drape ribbon over and around birds. Talk about a strangulation hazard. Ribbon or string may cause intestinal obstructions if they eat it.

Food and Drink
Alcoholic drinks, hot chocolate, coffee, and the ever-present eggnog are popular drinks at Christmas time. If your place is anything like mine, there are yummy fattening human goodies everywhere like cookies, candy, cakes and deserts. Watch that your birdie doesn't get into the holiday spirit this way! I like to put some water in a dark coffee mug (a duplicate of mine) and give the fids sips out of that. I don't know what they think it is, but it's in a coffee mug like mine and they are happy to drink it. Keep some nice fresh treats on hand for your birdies to munch on. I like pea pods, birdie bread, almonds and a little fruit. That way they won't feel left out and I have to keep Zeke (African Grey) from saying "Mmmm, want some?" all night long.

Non-Stick Coated Surfaces
Be extra careful not to overheat any non-stick cookware or anything with a non-stick surface! Those toxic fumes can kill birds in no time flat. I know this warning has been around for a long time, but with extra cooking going on, I thought I would remind you all again.

People
Having guests over? I know you would never feed your bird anything it's not supposed to have or subject it to extra stress, but watch your guests. Make sure they don't give your bird anything to eat or drink that could cause a problem. Of course, for us bird lovers, it almost goes without saying to make sure they are not causing the bird any undue stress like poking their fingers in the cage or just generally annoying your bird. Show them where the acceptable bird treats and give them a rule run down about being nice to parrots.

Fire
Want a nice warm fire in the fireplace? Is your fireplace in good shape or is this the first time you will be using it this year? What type of wood are you burning? Is the damper open? Check those "instant fire logs" and make sure they do not contain lead or arsenic. DO NOT BURN WRAPPING PAPER OR PRESSURE TREATED WOOD EVER! It's fine to have a fire as long as your fireplace is working like a should, has some type of guard across the front, and is being vented properly.

Wrapping Paper
Wrapping "paper" is a stretch. Lots of these innocent looking colorful papers contain toxic substances. Do not allow your bird to eat it and DO NOT burn it in your fireplace. If you are going to wrap a present for your bird, please use plain paper. If worst comes to worst, use a sheet of a black and white section of a newspaper.

Trees
May scare the daylights of your feathered friend. Take it slow and never place the tree where your parrot can chew on it.

Artificial Snow or Flocking
I couldn't find anywhere that said these were definitely a hazard, but they are not meant to be ingested and I am pretty darn sure they are not good for your bird if they inhale the fumes of that stuff either. When if doubt, just skip it. It's just not worth it.

Open Doors / Windows
With all the extra commotion going on around the holidays a little extra precaution about open doors seems to be in order. People going in and out, packages and food being carried in and out, point is that your door will probably get a workout. Not only that, but new things like trees or big boxes, might startle your bird and they may panic and fly. Just make sure you little feathered friend is out of harm's way and not in the direct path of the chilly air.

Have a Safe and Happy Holiday Season
Please, I don't want to hear about any accidents this holiday season. You all know what to do. And a message to your bird: (It's not you. The humans really ARE out of their minds for a couple of weeks a year.) Remember, a little precaution and supervision go a long way in keeping everyone safe and happy!

Your Parrot Place
Taylor Knight is President of Your Parrot Place, providers of the highest quality parrot food, toys, cages and supplies available. YourParrotPlace.com - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

Free Parrot eBooks!
140 pages of parrot tips, information, nutrition advice, safety and more! http://www.yourparrotplace.com/ebooks/free_ebooks.htm

What Supplies Will You Need For A Dog

Writen by K Brandt

The time has come. You have stopped by the pet shop every day on the way home from work to dote on the cute puppies in the window. Normally you return home with the thoughts of a cute puppy scampering down your hallways. Well, today you did it. You decided to purchase your very own puppy. However, before you bring your puppy home you need to be prepared. You need to purchase various dog supplies so that you can provide a welcoming home to your new dog.

What types of dog supplies do you need? There is a bounty of dog supplies available on the market today. The dog supplies range from basic necessities such as dog food to cute dog costumes. Dog supplies have become such a hot market today that numerous pet supply companies have popped up to meet any needs you have for dog supplies. This competition in the market place is a benefit to you because often times you can find great prices on dog supplies by doing a little market research.

Let's first take a look at the basic dog supplies that you will want to have when your pooch arrives home. Basic dog supplies include: dog food, dog bowls, collar, leash, kennel/crate, and dog bed. Dog food is number one on the list because you shouldn't feed your canine table scraps or your own dinner. You can place their food in regular bowls, but it is fun to search for a cute dog bowl. You can find dog bowls that even have their name on it.

Dogs have specific nutritional needs to need to be met so they grow up strong and have a healthy life. Proper dog supplies include the dog food that is geared towards their age, weight/size, and activity level. It is vital to maintain the proper weight for your dog's size and breed. Table scraps and human food can lead to excess weight that is a detriment to your dog's overall health. Not to mention they might have some unsightly waste products as a result of the human food.

When searching for dog food from your dog supplies list it is crucial that you find the right dog food. Check with a veterinarian, breeder, or dog shop owner for recommendations on the proper food. Dogs also will become used to their specific brand and type of dog food and if you suddenly change it they may suffer from upset stomach. Since they will be on the dog food for a long time it is a great idea to spend time finding the proper dog food for your pooch.

A dog collar and a dog leash should be next on your list of dog supplies. Many states require that you register your pet with the state. In addition you may need to demonstrate that your dog has had the required vaccines, such as rabies shots, and they must wear a tag on their collar regarding this. Also create a dog tag that has your dog's name on it, your name, and phone number in case your dog ever gets lost.

Most cities require that your dog be on a leash through various leash laws. Keeping your dog on a leash is a smart idea especially when you head out to parks or walk along the road. You don't want your pooch to bother other people or run out in front of an oncoming car. These scary situations can be avoided by using a leash to control your dog's movement. Leashes are also a training tool which you can use to teach your dog the proper behavior for their daily walk.

Dog supplies have improved over the years especially regarding different types of leashes. Does your dog constantly pull away from you on the leash causing them to cough? If so, you can buy a least that doesn't connect to just their collar, but is instead a harness that wraps around their entire body. You slip their legs through it. This type of leash can be much more comfortable for your dog, so consider it when looking for dog supplies.

If you leave your dog outside at all, whether you are home or not, you need to make sure that your dog is in a secure area. Therefore, you can keep them on a leash that is connected to a runner cord so they have a great area to run. Or you can provide a fenced in area for them to play in. Special things to note when looking for these types of dog supplies is that the leash should be a chest harness leash because you don't want the dog to constantly run after passersbys and hurt their throat. If you have a fence then make sure that it is in line with your dog's jumping ability. You don't want your dog jumping over the fence the second you turn your head.

Next on your dog supplies list should be a dog kennel/crate and/or dog bed. Your dog needs a place they can call their own in your home. A dog kennel/crate helps a dog to feel safe, especially when you are gone. Refrain from using the dog kennel as a discipline retreat. You want them to look forward to their own space in your home.

These are the basic dog supplies you need to purchase before you pick up your new pooch. Later on, you can spend hours finding fun toys, dog chews, and dog costumes for your new best canine friend.

Visit the Dog supplies website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog books, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

Diy Driftwood For Aquarium

Writen by Tony Tsai

DIY driftwood takes time, but it will save you tons of money. Some small pieces cost well over $20. Also, the soak method (minus salt) will work for store bought driftwood. Store bought driftwood is cleaned and has not been soaked. This may lead to tannin's being leaked into your tank

What you'll need:
Driftwood, which can be found anywhere. It doesn't necessarily have to come from the water. You could find it in the woods, as long as it is weathered down and looks unique. Also make sure the wood is not rotting.

BIG soaking container, I use a 15 gal rubber maid container.

Aquarium Salt, I use Doc Wellfish brand. This is used as a natural way of killing bacteria and parasites.

First step, clean off your wood! Make sure all debris and bark are removed from the wood (or it'll fall off in your tank!). Once complete, boil the water in the BIG pot and add aquarium salt. I use about a tablespoon per gallon. Boil the entire piece for about 2-4 hours depending on your size. If you can only fit half the wood in the pot then you will need to boil the other half.

Once the boil is complete you can transfer your wood into the rubber maid container. Add water until the whole piece of wood is under water (you can also add salt if you want). If the wood does not sink place something on top of it until it does. It'll sink after a week or two. You'll notice the water turn into tea-ish color. It is the result of the tannins that are released into the water. If you didn't soak the wood, the water in your tank would be this color. Tannins are natural and some fishes actually like it because it'll make them feel more at home. It'll also affect your PH, I'm not sure about GH or KH. You'll need to do water changes every other day to clean the water. This may take weeks or months.

When the color of the soak water suffices, you will need to soak your wood for another week without any salt. This will make sure that the wood does not hold any salt that may leak into your tank.

Once soaking is complete wash the wood well and transfers the wood into your tank. Do not keep the wood out of water for a long time or it will float.

For more information and pictures about this project, please visit www.CarolinaFishTalk.com and check the DIY section.

Article written by krayzievanh@yahoo.com, member of CFT Community Proof read by Brandan Njagu b.njagu@gmail.com

Site owner of http://www.CarolinaFishTalk.com.

Dogs Bad Breath

Writen by R. Drysdale

Have you ever wondered what is causing your dog's bad breath? It is probably caused by a buildup of tartar on his teeth, and possibly by advancing gum disease if the tartar has been building up, untreated, for a while. Throughout their lives, dogs get an accumulation of material called tartar on their teeth made up of mineral deposits, bacteria and tiny food particles. The bacteria break down the food particles and live on the rough surface of the mineral deposits.

When the bacteria break down protein molecules for nourishment, they cause dog bad breath by releasing sulfur compounds into the air. This is essentially the same process that happens in human mouths and causes bad breath, except that, in humans, the bacteria generally live on the tongue. Your dogs bad breath can be avoided by preventing the buildup of tartar on the teeth, or removing the tartar if it gets too bad.

Bad breath in dogs can be quite offensive: in serious cases, the sulfur odor is detectable throughout the house, and it is quite difficult to be near the dog. Dogs usually like a lot of attention, however, so it's equally difficult to stay away! Left untreated your dogs bad breath will destroy your relationship with her - it may even kill your dog. It may kill your dog because bacteria that are proliferating in the mouth can spread to other parts of the body or set up deep abscesses in the jaw area. Dog bad breath is a symptom of trouble brewing that you should not ignore. If it's serious and ongoing, take your dog to the vet.

Your veterinarian knows all about dog breath. He or she will probably be able to quickly examine the dog's teeth and tell you whether tartar is to blame. If the tartar is not too bad, the veterinarian may recommend a commercial product for tartar removal and treating dog bad breath. Or, it may be necessary to have the dog's teeth professionally cleaned. Sometimes tooth extraction is required, as bad breath in dogs is often accompanied by inflammation and infection of the gums, and loose teeth.

A word to the wise: if your dog is young, and you are just beginning to notice dog breath, start looking after your dog's teeth to avoid trouble later. Let him chew bones; buy her a toothbrush and get her used to you brushing, and keep a close eye on the teeth and gums.

R. Drysdale is a freelance writer with more than 25 years experience as a health care professional. She is a contributing editor to Bad Breath Cure, a blog dedicated to the treatment of bad breath.

Starting A Business In The Dog Clothing Industry Is Now A Good Time

Writen by Grant Carroll

Yes. Let me just get that answer out of the way. In a matter of just a few years, dog clothing has grown from obscurity into a booming industry. Millions of dog owners around the country and around the world are willing to pull out their wallets to clothe their furry babies. Even though it takes hard work, the dog clothes industry is booming, and there's plenty of room for businesses small and large to turn a profit.

First, let's discuss one of the less glamorous aspects of getting a dog clothing business started – hard work. First of all, you have to set up shop. These days, you can either have a traditional "brick and mortar" store or you could set up an internet business. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but internet businesses are cheaper to run due to the low overhead. This first step can be complex and difficult, so it's a good idea to get help and research as much as you can before going for it. An educated business owner is a successful business owner. Once you have set up your store you need to do some product sourcing. Look around for good, quality suppliers that can offer you the most for your money. For a dog clothes store, your suppliers must be able to provide fashionable clothing at a decent price and in a timely manner. If you don't have enough money to buy a lot of inventory yourself, you might want to find a dropshipper. They will ship the product directly to your customer with your company's info on it. It's best if you can find a wholesale supplier that also drop ships. Getting everything started can be a daunting task the feels overwhelming, but if you stick to it, then you will be rewarded in the end.

The payoff for all your hard work is worth it. Last year, pet supplies in the U.S. made about $34 billion. That's a big enough pie for everyone to have a slice. There's no sign of this popularity fading anytime soon, either. Now it's hard to flip through TV channels without seeing something about a celebrity buying expensive things for their pets. Thanks to people like Paris Hilton, dog clothes are going to be around for a while.

Visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters.

How To Litter Train A Cat

Writen by Andrew Markison

For most cat owners, training their cat to use the litter is a relatively painless process. It is among a cat's natural instincts to eliminate in an area that they can cover their feces in. This behavior may be a way of your cat accepting what they perceive to be as the natural order of dominance. In the wild feral cats will bury their feces if they are not at the top of their social hierarchy, if a feral cat does not bury his or her feces it is likely that the cat exhibiting that behavior is the dominant feline. So when your housecat buries his or her waste he or she may be recognizing your role as the dominant animal in their social community. It is also possible, however, that your cat may be displaying his or her inherited instinct to bury his or her feces in order to hide their trail from would be predators.

Generally kittens will learn the behavior of burying their feces and using the litter through their mother once they are weaned assuming the mother is litter trained. So if you bring home a young kitten of about 12 weeks, you may only need to place kitty in the litter box and gently scratch the clean litter with your fingers shortly after she eats to indicate to her what she is to do.

KITTY DIDN'T TAKE TO THE LITTER RIGHT AWAY
If your new cat doesn't take to litter training after your first few attempts you may want to consider teaching her using another common method. Confine your new addition to a small but comfortable room, preferably one with a hard floor if you have one. Place both the litter box and the food dish in the room but don't place them close to one another. Your cat will naturally not want to defecate near its food source so she will look for another area. Eliminate any pillows, blankets, newspapers, towels or other soft items where your cat may decide to eliminate from the room before you close her in. If you have confined your cat to a room with hard floors she is likely to avoid eliminating on the floor since urinating is likely to splash back and get on her fur. The only remaining choice to the cat at this point is (hopefully) the litter box.

MY CAT STOPPED USING THE LITTER
If your cat was housebroken and all the sudden she seems to have forgotten that instinct there are a few possibilities you might want to consider before giving up.

1. Does Kitty Have A Dirty Litter Box? The most common cause of a housetrained cat to stop using the litter is your cat disagreeing with the level of cleanliness regarding her litter box. Your cat is more likely to stop using the litter if she feels that it is too dirty. It is best to clean your cat's litter every day or at the very least every second or third day. The dirtier a litter box gets the less likely it is that your cat is going to continue to use it. Your cat wants to eliminate in a clean environment and if she notices that every time she eliminates on the carpet you immediately run and clean it up she perceives that as a more desirable place to eliminate because it is so quickly cleaned. Keeping your cat's litter as clean as possible is the best way to avoid this problem, and remember, what you consider clean, your cat may not.

In addition to emptying the litter, you obviously need to change it from time to time as well in order to ensure good cat health and cleanliness. Weekly changing is best, this ensures that odors and wetness won't have too much time to build up to unacceptable levels and it also reduces the likelihood of sickness due to high levels of bacteria.

2. Stress. A cat eliminating outside of the litter box may also be a sign for stress. The introduction of a new person or animal into the household may be putting a lot of stress on your cat. Cats generally like to feel like they know what is going on and what they can expect. If you upset that balance by introducing a new creature (even a two legged one) into the household they may get stressed which can cause them to eliminate outside the box.

If you leave your cat alone for long periods of time (for example while you take vacations or go on business trips) and you come back you may notice that your cat will sometimes seem aloof and standoffish. This is another instance in which your cat may react with eliminating outside the litter box as a sort of protest to what she perceives as being abandoned.

A new piece of furniture, or conversely, a newly missing piece of furniture may also put stress on your cat. Order and comfort are important if you are a cat. If you decide to get rid of that old fabric sofa because of it's ugly pea green color and because it's falling apart at the seams and then you replace it with a brand new, slick, top of the line, leather sofa with a refrigerator built into the side, and a massage and heating function, your cat is unlikely to see this as a stylish upgrade the way you would. What your cat will probably see is that one of her favorite nap spots has disappeared only to be replaced by something she is unfamiliar with and intimidated by.

3. Changing Litter Brands. Cats are creatures of habit and can also be quite finicky (remember Morris, the 9 Lives cat?). If you've recently switched the brand of litter you usually buy this may be cause for your cat to find another place to go. Some litters are perfumed (for humans rather than cats) and your cat may not react well to these smells, or perhaps your cat was used to a less dusty type of litter, a particular litter's texture, or who knows what. Changing brands or types of litter may upset what your cat is comfortable with and the result may be a messy carpet. If you suspect this to be the cause, you can either switch back, or gradually introduce the new litter. Try mixing in a little bit of the new litter with the older brand at first and gradually step up the percentage of the new litter each time you change the box, eventually you will be able to replace the older brand altogether. This will help your cat ease into the new litter brand rather than upset her sense of the order of things.

4. Multiple Cats. As mentioned above a second animal may cause a cat to begin to eliminate outside of the litter box, but this may not necessarily be the result of stress. A second cat in your household should probably have his own litter box unless your cats have proven they don't mind sharing. Again, remember cats are clean creatures and they can be territorial as well. Some cats may not mind using the same box, but others may refuse, which means again, the carpet becomes litter box number two.

5. Litter Box Size Or Placement. If the litter box does not provide enough room for your cat she may not use it at all. Your cat will likely want to scratch around and be able to feel comfortable in the litter box. Make sure it is roomy enough, easy for your cat to get in and out of (the sides of the box should be lower for kittens than for adult cats), and not in a high traffic area as cats seem to like some degree of privacy when eliminating. Lastly, make sure your cat has access to the litter at all times. Putting your litter box in a room that is closed on occasion is a recipe for disaster. If your cat has to go and she can't get to the room that you've put the litter in then she really will have no other alternative than to find another suitable area to eliminate.

6. Medical Issues. Your cat may be experiencing kitty incontinence. Like humans, incontinence can strike animals and this may be an indication of other medical issues with your cat. As a cat ages, she becomes more likely to lose control of her bodily functions just like a human does. If you suspect age or medical reasons may be the cause for your kitty's litter box problems then you should take her to the vet for an examination, advice and possible treatment to resolve the problem.

WHEN YOUR CAT MAKES A MESS
If your cat does make a mess outside of the litter box it is generally not good practice to scold her or punish her. Putting her nose in the mess and then tossing her in the litter is not going to solve your problem. Being upset with your cat is natural after such an incident, but to display this behavior and then to put her in the litter box is only making your cat associate the litter box with a bad experience. Your cat may also begin to learn to be afraid of you, which is obviously not what you want. Your best solution is to clean up the mess quickly. Put your cat in the litter box and be friendly and speak in a calming voice with the cat. Scrape the clean litter with your fingers and make sure your cat sees this behavior, hopefully it will sink in. To avoid having your cat defecate in the same place outside the litter box a second (or third) time, cover the area with a plastic sheet or something hard that will result in your cat splashing herself with her own urine if she should chose that place to defecate again. Clean the smell as best you can (white vinegar may help, but make sure your furniture or carpet can handle it). You can also move her food dish on top of or near the area that she used to defecate, a cat will not want to defecate near her food source. If your cat uses the litter again, even just once, reward her, play with her, pet her, give her a treat, make her associate the litter box with a good experience rather than a bad one.

A cat that eliminates outside of the box is not a lost cat. Don't give up on her until you've explored the possible reasons for the problem. Once you find it, you can most likely correct it and kitty and human can live a happy co-existence once again.

Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related grapchics and gift merchandise.

Shih Tzu Taking Your Shih Tzu Off The Leash

Writen by Connie Limon

Many shih tzu owners are anxious to give their four legged companions the freedom of going off leash, but it is important not to rush that important step. Shih Tzu should only be allowed off their leash after they have become masters of all the basic obedience commands, such as walking at your heel, sitting and staying on command

Another skill that must be completely mastered before the shih tzu can be taken off the leash is the come when called command. Even if the shih tzu can heel, sit and stay perfectly, if he cannot be relied upon to come when called, he is not ready to be taken off the leash.

Taking any dog off the leash, especially in a busy, crowded area, or one with a lot of traffic, is a big step and not one to be taken lightly. It is vital to adequately test your shih tzu in a safe environment before taking him off his leash. After all, the leash is the main instrument of control. You must be absolutely certain you can rely on your voice commands for control before removing the leash.

After the shih tzu has been trained to understand the sit, stay and come when called commands, it is important to challenge the shih tzu with various distractions. It is a good idea to start by introducing other people, other animals, or both, while the shih tzu is in a safe environment like a fenced in yard. Have a friend or neighbor stand just outside the fence while you hold you shih tzu on the leash. As the friend or family member walks around the outside of the fence, watch your shih tzu's reactions closely. If he starts to pull at the leash, quickly tug him back.

Repeat this exercise until the shih tzu will reliably remain at your side. After this, you can try dropping the leash, and eventually removing the leash and repeating the distraction. It is important to vary the distractions, such as introducing other animals, other people, traffic, rolling balls, etc.

After your shih tzu is able to remain still in the face of distraction, start introducing the come when called lessons with distractions in place. Try inviting some of the neighbors, and their dogs, over to play. As the dogs are playing in the fenced in yard, try calling your dog. When the dog comes to you, immediately give him lots of praise, and perhaps a food reward. After the dog has been rewarded, immediately allow him to go back to playing. Repeat this several times throughout the day, making sure each time to reward the dog and immediately allow him to go back to his fun.

After the dog has seemingly mastered coming when called in his own yard, try finding a local dog park or similar area where you can practice with your dog. It is important to make the area small, or to choose a fenced in area, in case you lose control of the dog. If you cannot find a fenced in area, choose an area well away from people and cars. Practice with your dog by allowing him to play with other dogs, or just to sniff around, then calling your dog. When he comes to you, immediately reward and praise him, then let him resume his previous activities. Doing this will teach the dog that coming to you is the best option and the one most likely to bring both rewards and continued good times.

Only after the dog has consistently demonstrated the ability to come when called, even when there are many distractions around, is it safe to allow him time off leash. Off leash time should never be unsupervised time. It is important, both for your well being and your dog's, that you know where he is and what he is doing at all times. It is easy for a dog to get into trouble quickly, so you should always keep an eye on him, whether he is chasing squirrels in the park, playing with other dogs, or just chasing a ball with the neighbor's kids.

Connie Limon is a shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems And How To Solve Them Part 2

Writen by Lori Anton

In part one of this 3-part instructional we pointed out that some canine behaviors are ingrained, while others are learned. We also highlighted successful ways to control excessive barking. In part 2 we will deal with effective techniques to stop biting.

Canine Behavior Problems: Biting

According to the U.S. Disease Control Center in Atlanta, Georgia, about 1,000,000 people in the United States are bitten by dogs every year. The majority of victims are children between the ages of 5 and 8; in most cases, the biting dogs were house pets.

Dogs bite for a variety of reasons. Dogs may bite or display threatening behavior when they are angry, afraid, agitated, over-excited, or when challenged or seeking to protect.

The first thing to do when confronted with biting dogs is to discern "why" the dog behaved aggressively. If the dog was being teased or felt threatened, the problem may not be with the dog. Instead, fault may lie with whomever or whatever teased him or made him feel threatened.

Some dogs bite or snap at their caregiver's hands when the caregiver tries to take something away from them. According to Barbara Woodhouse, internationally known dog trainer, canine behavior expert, and author of Barbara Woodhouse's Encyclopedia of Dogs & Puppies, the best cure for such aggressive behavior is to "return violence with violence."

Effective Ways to Stop Biting Dogs

When the dog attempts to bite, the caregiver should act swiftly by suspending the dog off his front legs by his choke chain; at the same time, scold in a violent tone of voice, "No bite!" The dog should be allowed back on his front legs only after he shows signs of discomfort (usually within 10 seconds). Once subdued; caress and praise him.

This process should be repeated every time the dog attempts to bite; he must be forced to respect your authority. While this type correction may sound cruel, it is not. Curing the dog of biting using this means is much kinder than having the dog sentenced to death in the gas chamber because of injuries inflicted on someone he bit.

Inexperienced caregivers may have a difficult time correcting their dog this way; if that is the case, the help of an expert dog trainer should be sought.

Preventing Aggressive Behavior in Dogs that Leads to Biting

Some dogs are so naturally protective of their owner they attack anyone who approaches, without being given a command. This can be quite dangerous. Allowing a dog to lunge toward people could very well lead to other aggressive behaviors, such as biting.

One of the best methods to prevent this type aggressive behavior in dogs is to take the dog among crowds – muzzled if necessary. Get people to touch him (muzzled), and give him a sound scolding if he attempts to attack.

Another effective method is to get someone who trains dogs to snatch him from you and really shake him (by his choke chain) when he shows signs of vicious behavior. He must be defeated, and then praised for submitting.

What About Puppies that Bite?

Puppies are notorious for biting and nipping during play. One mistake people often make with puppies that bite is to let them get away with it. Caregivers often think such behavior is cute and believe the puppy will naturally grow out of it without intervention. The reality is that such "innocent" biting and nipping can become a learned bad habit, difficult to break once the puppy is older.

Caregivers should address nipping and biting early on, instead of waiting until the puppy has grown and the problem more difficult to correct. Puppies are not like children; they are growing dogs. And dogs need training and an understanding but firm, consistent hand to teach them what is acceptable and what is not. Correction methods for young puppies that bite are different than methods for grown dogs.

How to Handle Aggressive Behavior in Puppies

When a puppy bites hard enough to hurt he must be corrected firmly. Say "No bite!" in a firm tone. If that doesn't work, use what is called "the shakedown method," which resembles what the mother dog does to her pup to keep order in the litter. Shake the puppy by catching hold of the loose skin of its neck on both sides under the ears. Repeat "No bite!"

Correcting aggressive behavior in puppies older than 12 weeks is done the following way: grab the puppy by the scruff of the neck with both hands, and lift him off his front feet, if necessary. Make the puppy look you straight in the face, and repeat "No bite!" If you sound angry enough, the puppy will understand.

This correction method must be consistent. If you permit a puppy to bite one time, but get annoyed and correct him the next, the puppy will become confused and will not learn effectively.

Puppies are especially likely to bite or nip children who play with them either for too long a period, or are too rough with them. When a puppy shows signs of being tired of being "mauled" during play, it is time to let the puppy rest. Put the puppy away in his box or pen, and instruct others to leave him alone and let him rest.

Under no circumstances slap a puppy or dog's nose to discipline him; this is cruel, as well as ineffective. And always give plenty of love and praise for submissive behavior after correction has been administered.

At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. In part 3 of this 3-part instructional we discuss the problem of jumping. Read part 3, "How to Prevent Dogs and Puppies from Jumping up on People" at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com/category/dog-care-articles.com

©2006 Lori S. Anton
Savvy Dog Lover editor

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit www.savvy-dog-lovers.com – where the best bones are buried!

Birds On High So Rare

Writen by Michael Russell

I write this as a memorial to the most innocent of birds. These were noble trusting souls. It is likely they had known only one human in their lives. The next human they came in contact with was their last.

I have never told this tragic tale before. I was warned not to. It is over twenty years since it happened.

I was stationed on a high peak overlooking a long lake in the Rocky Mountains. I watched for fires and lightning strikes in the forest below me. The only way up to the lookout building was by helicopter.

The landscape near the summit was a desolate rocky, snowy, windswept plateau. Only in late summer did the snow completely melt, then the bare rocky summit was highlighted by patches of moss and the occasional severely stunted evergreen shrub.

The birds that frequently wandered over the rocky moss covered plateau were about the size of a small chicken. The birds were a light mottled grey colour. They were Mountain Ptarmigan which usually walked around in a group, searching for food. They looked like a family of birds. They behaved like a mother and her nearly adult chicks. I would see the flock every day or two meandering along the moss-covered areas of the plateau, searching for seeds or bugs to eat. Sometimes they would walk by the lookout. I would go outside to see how close they would let me approach. They were not very afraid of me but they had a comfort zone. It was a distance boundary I was not allowed to cross. I could come as close as fifteen feet before they would turn and walk away. They seemed to be very calm and curious.

One day when the birds came by I thought about trying to catch one. There was a storage area at the bottom of the lookout tower. I went outside and opened the three foot square door to the lookout ground floor storage area. Inside was a flat dirt floor with some paint cans stored in a corner. First I slowly circled the birds and moved behind them. I was then in a position to drive the birds past the lookout's open door. The birds moved forward toward the open door. I had to startle them a little for this to work. Moving quickly they scurried by the lookout and one went in the open door way. I closed the door to give the bird time to calm down. Using a flashlight I went inside the storage area and caught the bird in the corner of the room.

The Ptarmigan weighed almost nothing. I was surprised at how light it was to hold. It felt like holding a bird skeleton covered with feathers. I gently stroked its head and back feathers trying to calm it. I did not wanting to stress the bird out for too long, so took it outside and let it go on the ground. It scurried away to a safe distance.

The next time the helicopter pilot came to deliver supplies he saw the Ptarmigan flock wandering about on the plateau not far from the helipad, so he knew where the birds were.

One day the pilot was talking on the radio, while he was working in the area. He mentioned the Ptarmigan. He planned to go hunting, and might get himself some birds. I didn't think that was at all sporting, since the birds had very little fear of humans.

One afternoon a helicopter flew to the lookout helipad and landed. There was no delivery scheduled for that day. The helicopter was shut down. The pilot and another man got out. The pilot took out a rifle case from the helicopter. He removed a shotgun from the case. He walked toward the flock of Ptarmigan which weren't far away. It was like shooting ducks in a barrel. The birds had no idea what was happening. The pilot walked up close enough so he had no chance of missing the birds. One by one he shot all the birds. It was a sickening, cowardly act. Not sporting at all. That was it for my birds. In a few seconds they were all dead.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Birds

What To Look For When Buying A Heated Dog Bed

Writen by Valerie Goettsch

A fur coat helps keep the cold out, but sometimes it's not enough for your dog, particularly if he/she is older, has arthritis, or is recovering from illness or surgery. Whether your dog has short or long hair, cold winter nights—and days—can chill him. A heated dog bed may be the answer to help your dog stay warm and cozy even in the dead of winter.

There are many heated dog beds available on the web and in stores. Some are better than others. The most important factor is safety. If you are in the market for one, here is what to look for:

• The heated dog bed should be UL and CUL certified to ensure safety and ideally have a steel-wrapped cord in case your dog is a chewer.
• Dual thermostats are preferable to automatically ensure consistent temperature; 102 degrees is an optimal temperature for dogs. Look for a heated bed that provides a full-range, variable heat control. This allows you to adjust the heat from off to full temperature heat quickly and easily.
• The best heated beds have a heater that keeps the surface temperature of the bed about 12 to 15 degrees above ambient air temperature. When your dog lies on the bed, the temperature warms to a cozy 102°. Because the heater from the warmer insert only warms up when your dog is on the bed, it doesn't waste a lot of energy. Depending on the size of the bed, most heated beds use 6-13 watts.
• Look for a bed with a removable heater insert so you can wash the bed and use it year-round without the heat.
• Read the product information carefully. Some heated beds are designed for indoor use only, while other beds, such as heated kennel mats, are suitable for outside use.

Heated dog beds come in a variety of styles. They include orthopedic heated beds with thick orthopedic foam to cushion joints and reduce pressure points; pillow-style beds with a heater inside; igloo style half-rounded heated pads to fit in igloo dog houses; heated, oval beds for small and toy-breed dogs; and heated kennel mats for use outside.

Another option is a thermo-wave microwavable dog bed warmer. You just heat the warmer in your microwave and put it into your dog's bed. It becomes soft and pliable when warmed. Good ones will have two sides for adjustable warmth, will be made out of non-toxic material, and stay warm for up to 12 hours.

Never use a human heating pad for your dog. They are designed to be placed on top the body and not for being laid upon. Heating pads for humans get much hotter than a dog's body temperature and may cause injury.

Valerie Goettsch is webmaster of My Favorite Dog featuring articles and information on heated dog beds, dog health issues, training, and more.

The German Spitz

Writen by Michael Russell

A "Spitz-type" breed is a dog that is compact of body, with dense stand off coat, tail curled over the back and a fox appearance to the head. The German Spitz in appearance is quite similar to that of a small Chow, with less ruff at the neck and a more fox-like appearance to the head. Archaeological findings date the German Spitz to dogs that were of similar body build and size during the Stone Age.

Historically in Germany the German Spitz has been divided into five separate sizes. All sizes of the Spitz can be found in Germany today. Actually these dogs are all considered separate "breeds" but are classed in the F.C.I. (European dog club classifications) as members of the entire "family" of German Spitz. The Spitz family ranges from the 19 inch size (known as the Keeshond) down to the 7-8 inch variety known as the Pomeranian. The Keeshond and the Pomeranian are the sizes most commonly seen in Britain and in the United States. Australia only recognizes the standard size in their dog shows. The breed standard of the F.C.I. distinguishes all variations by size and markings or color but all within the one classification of "German Spitz" while the A.K.C. recognizes the varieties as separate breeds. In Great Britain the Kennel club allows exhibits of all sizes and colorations within one class. At the Kennel Club shows this makes for an interesting and exciting class for spectators to observe, what with all the different colors and markings.

In all the varieties of the Spitz, the coat is termed a "stand-off" coat, meaning that the individual guard hairs stand away from the body and do not lie flat. This makes an easy care coat that requires little brushing to remain mat free. The outer coat is weather resistant and does not mat easily and except for seasonal shedding of the undercoat a weekly brushing is fine. The ears are always upright and the tail is always curled over the back, with shorter fur on the fronts of the legs.

The Spitz was commonly used in Germany as a drover's dog. Queen Victoria was responsible for the introduction of the breed into Great Britain, where it became popular as a companion dog and lap dog. In Great Britain the Pomeranian size gained the greatest popularity. The German Spitz has a lively and inquisitive nature, friendly and outgoing and non aggressive in all respects, making it a dog that blends easily into a household with children and other animals. They are a bit reserved with strangers and give a good warning as a watchdog but are not known for displays of bad temper. The high intelligence and easy trainability of the German Spitz makes it a popular obedience candidate and it is lively enough to be a good agility prospect also. This is a breed that no doubt would make more of a mark in the United States if agility enthusiasts knew about it. The dog's size and temperament make it an ideal apartment dog, needing nothing more than one or two daily walks for exercise.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Improve Your Dogs Health With A Natural Diet

Writen by Brigitte Smith

It goes without saying that your dog needs suitable nutrition to remain healthy. Vets and pet food manufacturers often have differing views on appropriate nutrition for your dog. Although commercial pet food manufacturers are motivated in large part by profits, commercially prepared foods are routinely recommended as part of an adequate, or good, diet for your dog. Sometimes your vet or dog breeder may approve of commercially prepared foods as your dog's sole diet. Many experts, however, tend to prefer a largely natural diet which for dogs is invariably comprised of meat and bones. Raw is preferable to cooked, as some of the minerals are definitely lost in the cooking process.

The reason why the commercially prepared pet food is so often fed to our dogs, is because, apart from the convenience, it can (depending upon the quality) actually contain many of the nutrients which are essential to your dog's wellbeing. The key word here is quality. There are in fact very, very few commercial manufacturers which produce nutrient-rich food. And they're not the brands you find in your supermarket, or even in most pet stores or vetinarians.

Raw bones with a little dry food as well as occasional rice or pasta, and perhaps the odd quality food scrap from your table, will generally contain most of the nutrients which your dog needs.

All dogs must obtain reasonable nutrition from their food to maintain excellent health and performance. The main nutrients required by your dog are water, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Vitamin or mineral deficiency in dogs fed a commercially manufactured diet today is not widely publicised. But then again, the slosh and dried formulae which are readily available from your vet or the local supermarket are not your dog's natural diet. If your dog was left to fend for itself in the wild (assuming it could manage to adapt, that is), would choose raw meat. And one of the reasons why meat, and especially bones, are so good, is the chewing action and the teeth cleaning function which the bones perform. Of course, there are also commercially prepared substitutes which can also effectively clean your dog's teeth and satisfy his/her need to chew.

A lesser known fact is that to feed your dog only meat (with no bones and no cereals or other carbohydrate source) can cause severe deficiencies: your dog is likely to become lethargic, sick, and even death has been known to occur from an all meat diet. But what about dogs in the wild, I hear you ask? Isn't meat a dog's natural diet? Isn't that what you just said, Brigitte? Well, yes and no: in the wild dogs eat the whole of their prey, not simply muscle meat - they thus obtain vegetable matter from the digestive tract of their prey, and calcium from the bones. As well, wild dogs occasionally, but routinely, add to their diet with plants, fruit and berries.

Most dogs relish some raw fruit and vegetables in their diet, so long as that's what they're used to. A dog who has been fed commercially prepared dog food all of its life won't be used to the taste of fresh food, so may well turn up his/her nose if you introduce such healthy food later in life. But persevere - try hand feeding pieces of carrot or apple to begin with. And if your dog is still very young, all the better. Start as you mean to go on and feed him/her some raw fruit and vegetables from time to time. Your dog's health will benefit!

(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural health for dogs. For your free special report, as well as weekly tips, information, strategies and resources for a healthier happier dog, go to http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com and submit your name and email address. Take a look around the site - http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com - while you're there - you'll find lots of useful information.

Ring Worm In Cats

Writen by Marcus Peterson

Ringworm is a common skin disease in cats and dogs. Unlike its name, it is not caused by any worm (though it used to be thought so) but by fungi called Dermatophytes that thrive on dead tissues present in skin surface and follow circular a path to spread them.

In cats, specific fungi called Microsporum Canis (M Canis) results in 90 percent of the ringworm cases. Cats usually pick up the disease from contaminated objects such as clippers or bedding or by coming in direct contact with other animals infected with this disease. Young cats under a year old are more susceptible to ringworm, so, it's wise to take extra precautions if you have a kitten in your house.

Some of the common ringworm symptoms among cats are rough and broken hairs, hair loss especially on head, or paws. You can also identify ringworm disease by a scaly patch of skin that looks inflamed and itchy with broken hairs around it.

If your cat reveals any of these symptoms, consult with your veterinarian. If diagnosed, he may advise tablets or ointments depending on the intensity of the diseases. The tablets can be fed to the cat with meals, and the ointment can be spread topically into the cat's fur. These treatments and cures must be continued daily. In most cases, it takes around six weeks to recover.

It's a good idea to take precautions due to ringworm's infectious nature. Keep kids away from the pet; and adults should use gloves when handling the cat. Although ringworm is a mild disorder, it causes problems due to its infectious nature and slow recovery time.

Ring Worm provides detailed information on Cause Of Ring Worm, Human Ring Worm, Ring Worm, Ring Worm In Cats and more. Ring Worm is affiliated with Baby Eczema.

The Tosa Inu Sumo Dog Of Japan

Writen by Michael Russell

The formidable Tosa Inu is a dog that was bred by the Japanese to feed their desire for a very large and courageous silent fighting dog for the ring sport of pit fighting. The Japanese do not like to lose and when they opened their borders in 1854 and foreign European dogs began to enter the ring and the Japanese were being consistently beaten, they put their breeding expertise to work to produce the Tosa Inu. This breed was perfected from a combination of the Mastiff, the Bulldog, the Bullterrier, The German Pointer, the Great Dane and the indigenous fighting dogs already present in Japan, such as the Akita. The Tosa when trained properly is no different in temperament than any of the breeds which were used in its development....all of them are solidly gentle and affable towards people. The Tosa because of its thick skin and naturally heavy coat has a high tolerance for pain as do most of the dogs bred to be used in the sport of dog fighting. And the Tosa because of the breeds used in its development will not stand down when confronted although usually will not be overly aggressive unless confronted.

The rules of the pit ring in Japan require that the dog be a silent and steadfast fighter and the Tosa Inu lives up to that admirably, never giving in and continuing to fight to the death if necessary without uttering a sound or a bark of any kind. However fighting to the death is not part of the Japanese ritual of dog fighting and seldom occurs for the dogs are pitted together and judged on various standards which are nearly as stringent as the standards required of the Samurai swordsmen....the fight is discontinued after a period of time and points are awarded to the winning dogs with much pageantry and acclaim. The sport of dog fighting in Japan has precise rules and it is stylized nearly as much as the Sumo wrestling events. The Tosa Inu is considered to be the "Sumo" fighting dog of Japan, being large and powerful and persistent. Tradition requires that the Tosa Inu be led into the ring between two human handlers rather than just one as are most of the other breeds and it is possible that both people are actually needed for the Tosa Inu is a very strong and powerful breed. In weight pulls a single dog has been known to pull as much as 3,800 pounds.

The Tosa Inu is not a breed for everyone. It goes without saying that any dog that is that large and that formidable as an adult needs proper bringing up as a puppy. They are naturally a dog aggressive breed but should never be aggressive without provocation. They are affectionate and gentle with their human families and are loyal yet quite tolerant of strangers if brought up correctly. Unfortunately there have been instances where Tosas have been bred irresponsibly and sold to owners who desire to use them as guard dogs or attack dogs and who do not posses knowledge and skill in training such dogs. This has led to some serious problems and ownership of Tosas is outlawed in some parts of the world because of these incidents.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

Pet Carrier Apparel An Idea Whose Time Has Come

Writen by Brie Demkiw

Everyone who has ever owned a puppy or a kitten has experienced this problem: Their new pet suffers from separation anxiety. They want to be held constantly. And they want to go everywhere with you: To the kitchen ...to the bedroom ...to the bathroom ...out to the garage ...and everywhere else!

And when they aren't following you everywhere you go, they want body contact: A warm body to snuggle up against.

When we got our first puppy, a small Chihuahua named Koda, we quickly relized that puppies demand attention ...a lot of attention! Like most puppies, Koda hated being alone. He would follow us around everywhere and always wanted to be held. Obviously, holding him or carrying him around all the time wasn't an option. And of course, we couldn't get very much done with just one free hand while we were carrying a puppy around. This was a pet problem begging for a solution.

We finally started wearing zip-up sweatshirts so that we could put our puppy inside and zip him in just enough for his head to pop-out. This experience sparked the idea to create a pullover sweatshirt with a specialized pocket, or puppy pouch, just for our puppy to snuggle in. We searched the internet and looked in all the local pet stores, but none of the available dog carriers worked as well as our makeshift sweatshirt solution. We also looked everywhere for sweatshirts with big pouch pockets which we could use to serve our own puppy carrying purposes, but none were up to the task. To our amazement, no one had ever designed clothing apparel suitably designed for carrying puppies or small pets!

So we made our own. We constructed our first puppy carrier for our own puppy from an old pullover hoodie sweatshirt. Not suprisingly, our puppy loved it. Whether we were at Starbucks sipping a latte', or having dinner or lunch at an outdoor cafe, he loved getting into his pouch and snuggling while we enjoyed our meal or coffee. We also found that our puppy was quite content to be carried in his pouch while we strolled the boardwalk at the beach or walked through local malls.

And we noticed something else. A puppy in a puppy pouch sweatshirt created a lot of excitement. Of course, everyone wanted to pet the cute little puppy who's face popped-out from the kangaroo-like pouch. But our puppy carrier sweatshirt itself stirred incredible interest and curiosity.

It seemed that people who owned small pets needed only to see our puppy in his pouch ...and they became intrigued with the idea of carrying their pet in their clothing. The functionality of our pet carrier sweatshirts was immediately apparent to pet owners whose small pet tires quickly during morning walks or simply needs a safe place to snuggle while their master goes about their business.

So the moral to this story is simple. If you discover a solution to a pet problem that no one else has addressed, you may find yourself providing the solution if it is going to happen at all. As a business associate of mine is fond of saying: If it is to be ...it's up to you!

Brie Demkiw is a web designer for a Southern California marketing company. Her background in web design and web marketing began while working internships with web marketing companies as an undergraduate at University of California - San Diego. She started PuppyPouches.com in response to requests and inquiries from people regarding the availability of PuppyPouches which she had designed for herself: http://www.puppypouches.com

Copyright © 2005 PuppyPouches.com. All Rights Reserved.

Fewer Dog Treats Make A Sweeter Pet

Writen by Terry Price

One common mistake made by a lot of pet owners is pampering your dog too much! Many people, when they hear their dog bark, either cuddle it, pat it, or feed it some type of dog treat. Although dog treats are popular, in a short time you will wind up with a dog that will whine, bark, or demand attention unnecessarily. This type of behavior teaches your pet to make a lot of noise whenever it wants attention. Henceforth, what your dog does all the time is bark! This is negative behavior modification and should be refrained from as much as possible to avoid spoiling your pet. After all, that is how your dog is trained, so reward the good habits only, never the bad ones.

Remember to keep the dog treats in the cupboard for a while, and even though it is hard to ignore a barking dog, it will pay its dividends later on. This is especially hard to do if most of the barking occurs outside and your dog is bothering the neighbors. You are best off to contact your neighbors and advise them that you're involved in the training process of putting an end to the excessive noise and just ask their indulgence. Most people understand and you will have better neighbor relations as a result.

Here are a few tips to help you with incessant barking. Resist the urge to open your door to yell at your pet when he's barking or give him some type of dog treat. The next time the barking starts, wait a minute until he stops and is quiet for a minute or two, then open the door before he starts barking again and praise him for being quiet. As soon as the dog starts to bark again, walk away and ignore him, and eventually he will realize that he only gets your attention when he is not barking instead of barking. Try and refrain from too many dog treats as your dog will expect to be rewarded with this type of treatment all the time. Remember that overnight success is not possible and that it will take you time to train your dog to stop barking. If your dog craves your attention all the time, it is important for you to reevaluate just how much attention he gets during the day. Maybe you just need to spend more time with him, giving more exercise and more love. This is something you and your dog will both be equally rewarded for.

By Terry Price- Remember to visit http://www.pet-supply-discount.com/pet-insurance.html for a great resource on all kinds of pet supply products, dog training ideas, dog treats or just great products to treat your pet with.

Westie Dogs Please Consider Adopting An Older West Highland Terrier

Writen by Jeff Cuckson

Everybody loves a baby animal and Westie puppies are adorable, but new dog purchasers often do not realize the commitment they are making when they bring a puppy home. For those want the companionship of Westies dogs, but do not have the knowledge or patience to endure the training process, rescuing an older Westie dog may be the right alternative.

When considering an older West highland terrier dog, the first thing that many people think is that they would be getting a dog with problems, either genetic problems common to Westies, or behavioral problems from improper training. The truth is, many Westie dogs go to shelters for reasons that have nothing to do with the dogs' inherent qualities. Every year, dog owners die, move to retirement homes, change jobs, get divorced, have new babies, or, unfortunately, simply tire of the responsibility of caring for a dog.

The advantages of older dogs are many. They have already finished teething, and no longer feel the urge to chew holes in your shoes, rugs, and furniture. Westie dogs that are older have grown used to sleeping through the night while their people sleep, as opposed to westie puppies, who wake up and whine. Older pets will have already been housetrained and also should know the meaning of the word 'no,' making their continued training that much easier.

When you encounter a Westie puppy, you only have the breed standards to give you an idea of what kind of dog it will grow into. Although Westhighland dogs have a typical personality type, there are variations from dog to dog. The full-grown Westie is a know quantity. The Westie dog you meet is what you will get, and you can quickly determine if it will fit into your home.

It may seem like rescuing an older Westie provides you with an 'instant dog,' but that is not the case. At first they might become confused, upon arriving at a new home, and need to be reminded of their basic training. However, even allowing a few weeks of extra special care is easier and less stressful than the rigors of training a puppy.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson
webmaster@madaboutwesties.com

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Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest
Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie Puppies
You've Ever Dreamed Of! Then Click Here NOW!
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Dog Training How To House Break Your Dog

Writen by Amy Howells

Dog training is something any dog owner has to go through. Most people now get their dog training through a dog trainer. But there are some aspects of dog training that can't be done with a dog trainer.

This is because this type of dog training occurs at your home. Not sure what kind of dog training I'm talking about?

I'll give you a hint... this kind of dog training takes place 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Give up?

What I'm talking about is potty training or house breaking your dog or puppy. This part of dog training is often the most hated and dreaded of all dog training. This is because house breaking often takes the longest for your dog or puppy to learn.

For those of you who need help with, house breaking your dog, help has arrived.

House breaking your dog often starts when you get your dog as a puppy. But there are adult dogs that need this type of dog training as well. Dog training has come a long way in recent years.

It has recently been decided that crate training is the best way to get your dog house broken. Dogs do not like to sleep where they have gone to the bathroom. So, in theory, if you keep a dog in a crate for small periods of time, they will learn to hold it. This is because they would rather hold it than lay in it.

Most people think that this form of dog training is cruel to the dog. But in reality, this form of dog training is not cruel in any manner, in fact, many dogs like the idea of sleeping in a crate.

Dogs naturally like to sleep in a den like environment. Using a crate for your dog training

helps create this environment. Dogs feel safe and comfortable in their "den." Many people find that their dogs often go to their crate on their own when tired.

Using a crate does take time for a dog to get used to, so be sure to start out in small intervals when beginning this type of dog training.

House breaking your dog can be a difficult part of dog training. But crate training has been proven to be the most effective way of house breaking your dog. In fact, most dog training classes and dog training books recommend it for house breaking.

For more information about this type of dog training, you can go online and type in "Crate Training" into the search engine. You will soon see for yourself how effective a crate will make your dog training easier!

Amy Howells is an expert dog trainer who owns a website dedicated to teaching dog owners the short-cuts to dog training.

You can also sign up to her free e-course and discover the astonishing short-cut secrets to dog obedience training.

The Aussie Shepherd

Writen by Michael Russell

The Australian shepherd is a medium sized dog with a giant sized heart. Bred to herd, it lives for the opportunity to herd anything at all, from children to cars to actual sheep! "Aussies" have even had jobs herding geese and birds away from airports!

A true australian shepherd will often pass a herding "fun match" (a practice herding trial) without any advice training, it is so instinctive with them.

Australian shepherds have a medium length furry coat, with outer coarse "guard hairs" and a soft and woolly undercoat which insulates them and protects them from the weather. An "Aussie" should not have a thick luxuriant "silky" coat as this will naturally collect more burdocks and grit than a more natural less heavy coat, thus one should not expect to see a "heavy" coat on an Australian shepherd but rather just a medium length coat (usually not longer than two inches in length at the most) and often less feathered than the heavily groomed "show" shepherds.

Aussies have a joyous and bouncy personality. However they take their work seriously and are big on protecting their "flock" They make loyal family pets and love nothing more than to curl up with their master of an evening after a long day working in the fields.

As previously stated, they love to chase and will not stay willingly in a yard without a fence.

Australian shepherds come from a rather mixed parentage, with a "little bit of this" and "a little bit of that" in their pedigree. Thus they often can be a bit under-sized or over-sized from the standard as outlined by the Australian shepherd club.

The American Kennel club states that the preferred size for males should be 20-23 inches at the shoulders and the females 18-21 inches. Tails should be naturally bobbed or docked.

Colors of the Aussie may be Blue merle, black, red merle, or red...all of these may have white markings including white "collar" , socks, facial blaze but can not include white splashes on the body between the withers and the tail.

The Australian shepherd is meant to be a working dog. It is important that families who wish to have an Aussie remember this fact. Plenty of running and exercise should be part of the regimen. If you can't "herd" with your Aussie, then a good game of fetch and activities such as agility are a good substitute and will keep your dog healthy and in good spirits.

Michael Russell
MgrCentral.com
Established 2001
Home Business Training and Information Guides

Introducing Chinchillas

Writen by Sandra Kwok

What has large button eyes, the body of a rabbit, large ears of a mouse and tail of a squirrel? While the descriptions help one to visualize a chinchilla, these do not give credit to the world's most adorable creature.

The Chinchilla is a member of the rodent family originating from the Andes Region of South America. Chinchillas are the most exotic rodents in the world because of their dense and soft fur and hence their pelts are very popular for fur coats.

There are basically 2 species of chinchillas, Chinchilla brevicaudata and Chinchilla lanigera. Both species have long hind limbs, short forelimbs, four toes and flexible digits. The C.bevicaudata is thicker in the neck and shoulders and has a shorter tail. C.lanigera has a more pointy face, elongated ears, narrower neck and more slender body.

Both species were originally brought to the United States to be bred as fur producers. Since C.lanigera adapted better to captivity and reproduce better, C.brevicaudata was eventually dropped from most fur-farming ranches. The Standard Grey is the original color but when chinchilla trade grew, demand for variety gave rise to a new trend – color mutation. Colors available are Beige, Silver or Pink White, Black Velvet, Brown, Tan, Sapphire, Mosaic, Violet. Initially, culls and other poor fur specimens were offered as commercial pets. However, as chinchillas' popularity soared, most were bred as domestic pets. Wild chinchillas are currently on the U.S. Endangered Species list.

Chinchillas make good pets as they are small, quiet and clean. Being nocturnal animals, they must be given a quiet and dark place to rest during the day. They are not the pet of choice for owners who want a daytime companion.

Sandra Kwok is the author of "By the Fur of my Chinny Chin Chin" Ezines. Her love for Chinchillas has led her to create a website exclusively for Chin owners. Subscribe to her FREE Ezines and get expert tips on everything you need to know about chins:

http://www.chin-r-us-com

The Brittany Spaniel An Extraordinary Bird Dog

Writen by Michael Russell

The Brittany Spaniel originally was found in Breton. In a painting by Oudry in the early 1700s there is a portrait of a tail-less spaniel about the size and color of the Brittany that is pointing a partridge. The breed became popular with local poachers in the 1800s because of its agility and small size and its extraordinary ability to point and flush the birds, combined with a desire to retrieve and a willingness to work.

In modern times, the Brittany has become the most popular of the "pointing" breeds in the United States. It is extremely "birdy" and is tireless in the field. It will retrieve the birds also, which is not common with most of the pointers. The "Britt" also fits well into a household, being affectionate and friendly. He is a small dog with a love of the outdoors, being agile and compact he can fit into an urban household but needs to be well exercised. This is a dog whose first love is bird hunting and it is an independent dog. It loves nothing better than to work with its human master on a "partnership" basis to bring in the birds. There are many hunters who swear by this dog as being one of the best bird hunting dogs they have ever had, once they have had a "Britt" they will never switch their loyalties. This is a breed that has retained a strong hunting presence in both England and the United States and it is not uncommon for "dual championships" (championships in conformation and hunting trials) to be shown in the show ring.

The Brittany is a smaller dog, standing 17 to 20 inches in height, with finer bones than many of the larger pointers. The coat should be somewhat sparse and lying flat with some waviness, although the dogs shown in the ring have a fuller coat it is not necessarily part of the standard of the breed. The coat should not be so heavy as to catch the burdocks and weeds but rather thin enough and silky enough that the dog can travel through heavy underbrush with ease. Colors can be everything from orange and white to liver and white with orange and white being the most popular. Black is not allowed. The Brittany should be an athletic dog with the stride of the rear foot landing in the print of the front foot or beyond when moving. The tail is either short or bobbed.

In matters of temperament the Brittany is not overly aggressive and its behavior befits its function. It has never been used as a "guarding dog" but only as a "bird dog" and this is its first interest. It is friendly to humans but does not "crave" the human companionship as much as it craves the joy of the hunt. It is a willing worker and has a "soft" nature, it is a dog that is easy to train and does not need harsh discipline.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

3 Tips For Being Prepared For Emergencies With Your Dog

Writen by Paul Duxbury

Have you ever thought about what you need to do should your dog – or another dog – ever suffer a serious, life-threatening injury? What if they have a severe allergy to an insect bite or a bee sting? It's great to know your vet's phone number, but what if something happens during off hours? What if you don't know where the closest emergency animal clinic is located?

Enough with the questions already, right? Any emergency is stressful and scary, and one involving that furry little four-legged member of your family is no exception. The toughest of owners can be instantly reduced to helpless balls of mush if something's wrong with their dogs and they can't figure out what to do.

1. Preparation is key.

The key to getting through a veterinary emergency is preparation. You may think you have that covered with a first aid kit and having the phone number to your vet handy, but what if there isn't enough time to move your dog? You need to be well-versed in some of the more common animal emergencies just in case a situation ever arises. And hey, if a situation never arises, you'll still feel more confident knowing that you have the ability to deal with one.

2. Know how to care for wounds.

Did you know that you shouldn't use hydrogen peroxide on a bleeding wound? Nope. It slows clotting to the area, which means your dog could actually lose more blood than he would if you didn't use the peroxide at all. In fact, the best way to treat a deep, severely bleeding wound is to apply a clean cloth and hold it in place for five minutes, then tape the cloth to the wound. That original cloth should never be removed – that also slows clotting – and should instead be layered with more clean cloths if blood soaks through.

3. Know what to do about poisoning.

Did you know that certain varieties of toads, salamanders, newts, and other amphibians are poisonous if licked? Hey, guess who loves to hold little woodland critters in his mouth! Your dog. If you notice your pup drooling, whining, and wiping at his mouth after a trip into the forest, get him to a clean water source and rinse his mouth thoroughly. While the poison can be fatal if left in the mouth, it's fairly easy to cleanse from the tongue and glands.

Make sure you are prepared for any emergencies for that friend!

Paul Duxbury owns http://www.my-dog.co.uk a leading sources of free information and advice for all dog owners as well as http://www.dog-lover.co.uk

Free Leasing A Horseis It Really Free

Writen by Cheryl Searles

A little something I've learned about free leasing a horse…in our case…it DEFINITELY wasn't free. Several years ago we decided to enter into a free lease agreement with a woman who advertised that her aged horse was bombproof and suitable for an "absolute beginner" This suited us because we were absolute beginners and we wanted an affordable and safe way for our daughter, who was horse crazy, to learn about horses. It seemed perfect.A requirement of the agreement was that he was to be left stabled where he was, so, as we had no where to put a horse anyway it seemed like a perfect situation. We went over to see the horse and he was beautiful…we fell in love with him (as his crafty owner no doubt knew we would) A deal was made. She threw in the bait and reeled us in good and proper.

To begin with it seemed fair enough that we buy the hay…after all our daughter would be learning a lot of valuable information from this experience. As time went by, we were informed that we would have to pay for the dentist and farrier as well (we did) We were by now, willing to do anything to continue our relationship with this beautiful old ex racehorse. Especially seeing as it wouldn't be too long before our daughter was able to ride him…well…as soon as he was over his temporary lameness that was. In the mean time, my daughter got to work tirelessly cleaning up after the old fellow (and his owner's other two horses as well). I know you are probably thinking things like "idiots" "suckers" etc. however, please understand that as beginners we weren't aware that this wasn't how it was meant to be. We thought that we owed her a debt of gratitude. We wanted to be a part of the horse world SO much but had neither the funds nor the dwelling nor the experience to even entertain the idea, so we just did what she wanted and for a long time even looked up to her for her knowledge and experience.

As agreed, we were buying the hay (she told us it was $15.00 a bale) We always gave her the money and she picked up the hay. What we didn't know was that we were also supplying the hay for her other 2 horses as well. She was charging us $15.00 a bale and buying it for $5.00 a bale. Keep in mind that this "free lease" was now costing us around $60.00 per week as she was also charging us $30.00 for stabling (we found out that she had a deal with the property owner and she got a discount because she had 3 horses stabled there…stabling for 3 horses was costing her $30.00 per week…yep we were paying for all her horses…AGAIN.

One morning she called our house to inform us that the hinges on his stable needed replacing and (like the fools we really were at the time) we went down to the local rural supplies barn and bought lovely strong hinges (another $40.00) and then my husband fitted them. Meanwhile our daughter was still cleaning up poo, cleaning the stables, changing the water daily and still no riding.

We started to become a little suspicious when she wouldn't allow us to bring anyone to see our horse. She became very insistent that we did not have any conversations with the stable owner either (This was because he didn't know that we were leasing the horse in the first place…if he did she would not have had her discount on stabling any more) We weren't allowed to visit at all unless she was present and then we decided to buy the hay ourselves one day and discovered what she was doing. It wasn't long before we had her whole little scam worked out and found out that she'd done it before…in fact she did it all the time. As soon as the victims found out what she was up to and dumped her…she went fishing for a new sucker.

Needless to say we learned a harsh lesson and were left feeling ripped off and red faced. As there was no written contract (another mistake) we weren't obliged to continue and we didn't. Looking back on it, several years later and now owning 2 horses of our own, I feel very embarrassed to admit that we were so gullible, but while ever there are inexperienced people out there who are blinded by "horse love" and sly conniving people who are willing to take advantage of them to suit their own needs…I guarantee we won't be the last.

Just take heed, make sure you are aware of all the rules and what will be expected of you AND GET IT IN WRITING. Don't get caught like us because honestly, there are many people willing to rip you off if you are willing to let them.

By Cheryl Searles

I am a 43yr old mother of five and grandmother to one beautiful little girl. I enjoy writing, singing, reading and helping my daughter with our horses. We live in NSW Australia and I am currently working on a little website which is designed to give Aussie horselovers a place to get together and exchange ideas and anything that has to do with...you guessed it...horses. http://www.stablelife.net